Juno cabin light replacement - replace cables?

[magpie patrick]

Juno's cabin lights will be replaced this summer - the cables are exposed as the ceiling has been removed in most, but not all, of the cabin. The old lights all worked albeit rather dim as I couldn't source the right bulbs. The replacements will be LED. The ceiling was removed as it was rotten, not because I needed access to the cables. 

 

I am aware, however, the once I replace the ceiling it will be a lot more difficult to replace the cables. What puts me off replacing them now is the cat's cradle behind the switch/fuse board and the fact they enter the cabin in the extreme top corner of the bulkhead but appear in three different places tje far side of the short remaining section of ceiling. 

 

This section of ceiling is not due for replacement- it's not rotten and it's also in three pieces over the shower compartment, wardrobe and the corridor between them.

 

What's the potential problems of not replacing the cables? I intend to replace the chocolate blocks.

 

Photos of cable in main cabin and ceiling in shower compartment. The cables come into the cabin under the shower ceiling.

[Jen-in-Wellies]

I'd be happy keeping the cables, providing that all the joints are made good. Failure of a cable is extremely rare, provided it is supported so it doesn't vibrate unduly, or get wet. Joints are usually the problem. The current going through them is likely to be less with the move to LED's, assuming a similar number of fittings and light output.

Jen

[blackrose]

Yes I agree. Assuming you're moving from halogen or standard filament bulbs to LED then the existing cables will be carrying a lot less current.

[Chewbacka]

 

Rather than screw connectors I would use wago connectors, spring loaded so never become loose with vibration,

not that expensive either.  As an example - 

https://www.toolstation.com/wago-221-3-way-compact-lever-connectors/p43878
 

 

 

[Stilllearning]

Fit led lights running on rechargeable batteries? No wires at all!

[blackrose]

4 minutes ago, Stilllearning said:

Fit led lights running on rechargeable batteries? No wires at all!

 

You don't have any wires going to the battery charging unit?

 

Constantly changing batteries seems like a pain. I'd rather have proper wired in led lights.

[Alan de Enfield]

5 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

You don't have any wires going to the battery charging unit?

 

Constantly changing batteries seems like a pain. I'd rather have proper wired in led lights.

 

Don't forget he's foreign and they have some strange ideas.  ?

 

 

 

29 minutes ago, Chewbacka said:

 

Rather than screw connectors I would use wago connectors, spring loaded so never become loose with vibration,

not that expensive either.  As an example - 

https://www.toolstation.com/wago-221-3-way-compact-lever-connectors/p43878
 

 

 

 

I know its (probably) not an RCD compliant boat, but just for reference :

 

 

10.4 Screw-clamp or screwless terminal blocks shall conform to IEC 60947-7-1. Other terminals shall be of the ring or self-locking captive-spade type, not dependent on screw or nut tightness alone for retention on the stud or screw. An exception is that friction-type connectors may be used in circuits not exceeding 20 A if the connection does not separate when subjected to a force of 20 N

 

 

Edited May 30, 2021 by Alan de Enfield

[David Mack]

2 hours ago, blackrose said:

Yes I agree. Assuming you're moving from halogen or standard filament bulbs to LED then the existing cables will be carrying a lot less current.

But if the previous lights were fluorescent there won't be much difference.

[David Mack]

What do the wires look like if you strip off a bit of insulation from each core? If they are a reasonably bright copper colour (or better still tinned) then I think they are fine to leave. If on the other hand they are heavy with green verdigris corrosion I think you have to bite the bullet and replace them.

 

I do appreciate your problem. Belfast has a hank of wires from the fuse box disappearing behind the lining, with individual pairs of wires appearing at each appliance, and no indication of the route between, particularly for the lighting in the ceiling.

[Chewbacka]

1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:

I know its (probably) not an RCD compliant boat, but just for reference :

 

10.4 Screw-clamp or screwless terminal blocks shall conform to IEC 60947-7-1. Other terminals shall be of the ring or self-locking captive-spade type, not dependent on screw or nut tightness alone for retention on the stud or screw. An exception is that friction-type connectors may be used in circuits not exceeding 20 A if the connection does not separate when subjected to a force of 20 N

Good point about the connectors, I would argue that wago connectors retain the wire by friction and so long as it takes more than 2kg to pull out, will be ok.

 

added - just measured the pull out load of a 0.75mm2 - didn’t pull out at 5kg which surprised me.

Edited May 30, 2021 by Chewbacka