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Installing a multifuel back boiler stove


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Hello I’m thinking of installing a multifuel back boiler stove in my narrowboat as it hasn’t got one at the minute.

Now I have a central heating system an Aidi 2829 I think that’s what it’s called is it basically just connecting the flow and return the central heating pipes into the back boiler in the back of the multi stove fire? 
 

 

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Not enough info to give you any meaningful answer. Can you do a diagram with dimensions of the layout and the heights of the pipes, radiators  placing of the stove etc. and I will try to sort it for you.

Do you intend to retain the Alde boiler?

 

Solid fuel stoves in my opinion are unsafe if they rely on a pump to move water around, they should be working on gravity. This places exacting demands on pipe sizes, layout, available circulation height, and how the radiators are connected.

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34 minutes ago, Feeby100 said:

Hello I’m thinking of installing a multifuel back boiler stove in my narrowboat as it hasn’t got one at the minute.

Now I have a central heating system an Aidi 2829 I think that’s what it’s called is it basically just connecting the flow and return the central heating pipes into the back boiler in the back of the multi stove fire? 
 

 

 

Are you talking about connecting the stove backboiler to the Aldi central heating system? I don't think that's going to be as simple as you think. 

 

How long is your boat and where are you thinking of installing the stove? If you can install it centrally (fore-aft) you may not need a backboiler and it could make the whole installation much simpler.

Edited by blackrose
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1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Not enough info to give you any meaningful answer. Can you do a diagram with dimensions of the layout and the heights of the pipes, radiators  placing of the stove etc. and I will try to sort it for you.

Do you intend to retain the Alde boiler?

 

Solid fuel stoves in my opinion are unsafe if they rely on a pump to move water around, they should be working on gravity. This places exacting demands on pipe sizes, layout, available circulation height, and how the radiators are connected.

Thank you for taking the time to reply 

I am not with boat till 19 th this month so I have a look then and come back to you 

58 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

Are you talking about connecting the stove backboiler to the Aldi central heating system? I don't think that's going to be as simple as you think. 

 

How long is your boat and where are you thinking of installing the stove? If you can install it centrally (fore-aft) you may not need a backboiler and it could make the whole installation much simpler.

Hi it’s a 55 ft boat 

I am redesigning it and it has  the alde system in already 

I wanted it more for hot water and central heating save on gas and electric if I have the stove on 

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43 minutes ago, Feeby100 said:

Thank you for taking the time to reply 

I am not with boat till 19 th this month so I have a look then and come back to you 

Hi it’s a 55 ft boat 

I am redesigning it and it has  the alde system in already 

I wanted it more for hot water and central heating save on gas and electric if I have the stove on 

I did this on my boat, it in the end involved putting the calorifier above and behind the stove, I kept the Alde heater and used its pump via a thermostatic switch. It wasn't difficult and worked extremely well 

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5 minutes ago, peterboat said:

I did this on my boat, it in the end involved putting the calorifier above and behind the stove, I kept the Alde heater and used its pump via a thermostatic switch. It wasn't difficult and worked extremely well 

I would not trust that Alde toy circulator to control the heat output of a solid fuel stove even with the calorifier as a gravity heat dump.

Perhaps I am old fashioned but I hate pumped solid fuel heaters, they are just not controllable enough; fast enough; for safety if the pump or the electrics fail.

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17 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

I would not trust that Alde toy circulator to control the heat output of a solid fuel stove even with the calorifier as a gravity heat dump.

Perhaps I am old fashioned but I hate pumped solid fuel heaters, they are just not controllable enough; fast enough; for safety if the pump or the electrics fail.

Five years it worked for without issues, I have a Rayburn Royal doing the same in my current boat for the last 4 or 5 years and a solid fuel stove before that and a bubble stove before that!

On this boat it's a proper 12 volts circulating pump though 

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Possibly. Depends on the stove it is going in. On a Morso Squirrel, the backboiler replaces a firebrick and a cast iron flue gas deflector. The fire bricks on the inside of the stove protect the cast iron, or steel plate from getting overheated and distorting from the burning coals. The water inside a back boiler have a similar effect as the heat carried away by circulation prevents the metal from overheating. You might fit this on the inside of the stove, then get the input and output pipes connected to the outside of the stove with bulkhead fittings. That is how I'd do it. It may be possible to fit the boiler on the outside of the stove and remove the fire brick in that area to allow the heat through. The back boiler would need to be in very good contact though to prevent the stove plate from overheating. How would you ensure this thermal contact was made and maintained? I've not seen this done, so don't know if it would be effective.

Jen

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24 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

Possibly. Depends on the stove it is going in. On a Morso Squirrel, the backboiler replaces a firebrick and a cast iron flue gas deflector. The fire bricks on the inside of the stove protect the cast iron, or steel plate from getting overheated and distorting from the burning coals. The water inside a back boiler have a similar effect as the heat carried away by circulation prevents the metal from overheating. You might fit this on the inside of the stove, then get the input and output pipes connected to the outside of the stove with bulkhead fittings. That is how I'd do it. It may be possible to fit the boiler on the outside of the stove and remove the fire brick in that area to allow the heat through. The back boiler would need to be in very good contact though to prevent the stove plate from overheating. How would you ensure this thermal contact was made and maintained? I've not seen this done, so don't know if it would be effective.

Jen

I fitted one to my Tim Systems magic stove it worked ok

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20 hours ago, peterboat said:

Which alde is it the tall thin one or the new box type?

Tall thin one

45 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

Possibly. Depends on the stove it is going in. On a Morso Squirrel, the backboiler replaces a firebrick and a cast iron flue gas deflector. The fire bricks on the inside of the stove protect the cast iron, or steel plate from getting overheated and distorting from the burning coals. The water inside a back boiler have a similar effect as the heat carried away by circulation prevents the metal from overheating. You might fit this on the inside of the stove, then get the input and output pipes connected to the outside of the stove with bulkhead fittings. That is how I'd do it. It may be possible to fit the boiler on the outside of the stove and remove the fire brick in that area to allow the heat through. The back boiler would need to be in very good contact though to prevent the stove plate from overheating. How would you ensure this thermal contact was made and maintained? I've not seen this done, so don't know if it would be effective.

Jen

Hi 

I am not sure to tell the truth with the Morso squirrel stove are the whole cut in ready ? Blanking plates or do you buy one with it fitted already

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4 minutes ago, Feeby100 said:

Hi 

I am not sure to tell the truth with the Morso squirrel stove are the whole cut in ready ? Blanking plates or do you buy one with it fitted already

When I bought my Squirrel, around 14 years ago, I got the non-back boiler one, then added their back boiler. There were no blanking plates for the pipes to go through. Instead there were divots in the casting showing where the pipes were to go. These were drilled out with a hole saw to take the pipes. The thin convection plates on the back also had to be drilled. The rear fire brick and deflector plate were removed and the back boiler eased in to place, which was tricky, but doable. Back nuts on the pipes sealed the holes. Then the convection plates were refitted and the plumbing connections made.

Jen

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38 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

On the inside, or the outside of the stove?

Inside instead of the baffle, mine had a bleed screw on it and I put a thermoswitch on it, you have to mount it lopsided slightly for the in and out. 

34 minutes ago, Feeby100 said:

Tall thin one

Hi 

I am not sure to tell the truth with the Morso squirrel stove are the whole cut in ready ? Blanking plates or do you buy one with it fitted already

That's what I had it was if I remember easy to wire the pump to work 

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2 hours ago, Feeby100 said:

Hi can this be added to my stove I have now ? 
is it as simple as bolting on back

 Read the description!

It needs to go inside the stove where the baffle plate is.

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It looks like the support for the front guard grid that stops the coals touching the door and glass and falling out when the door is open. They are fragile. One of them on mine is broken too. The front guard grid thing also appears to be missing. This slides on to the supports so it can be removed for cleaning ash out. Ask about this guard, or you'll need to buy another as it is important for safety. It should be possible to fabricate a new support for the guard if you are handy.

 

Just noticed something much more important. There appear to be two pieces missing near the top of the front panel, to the left and right of the MORSO text. If so, then this stove is scrap. The top also does not appear to be bolted to the rest, but is just laid on skew wiff. Don't buy it.

Jen

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