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Roof repaint..non slip


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9 hours ago, blackrose said:

After keying it brush it clean and then I use a cloth and white spirit to clean and degrease the surface. That's assuming white spirit is the solvent in the paint that you're putting on (often stated as thinners No.1 on the paint can). If it isn't used as the paint solvent don't use white spirit for cleaning because it might act as a contaminant.

 

It's best not to use water to clean if you've gone though the paint and exposed any metal in places. Keep it dry.

I have an abundance of epifanes brush thinners as it was much cheaper to buy a 5 litre even though I calculated I'd only need 2ish litres for thinning the paint. So I guess I'll use that!

 

9 hours ago, blackrose said:

Also I'd recommend doing the roof in manageable sections rather than trying to do the whole thing in one go.

That sounds much less terrifying actually, but won't it be difficult to get the topcoat to look consistent at the joins?

 

53 minutes ago, hughc said:

We are half way through this job . The roof has been overpainted many times in the last tirty years using Dacrylate non-slip which incorporated iron oxide. A scabbler will not remove this it melts the paint and clogs almost immediately. The only method that works has been by using industrial strength paint stripper, Langlow is good or the slightly less expensive Strip-Away Pro from Maxolen.Buy plenty, if you need to hire a scabbler and genny it's  going to be cheaper anyway. Stanley 4" replaceable blade scrapers are also good allowing the multiple layers to be peeled away.

 

Ok, that also sounds less terrifying than trying to operate a scabbler for the first time. My roof is curved and I am aware that the scabbler can dig into the metal if you don't hold it flat on. Where did you source this paint stripper from? Would it work on all paint - I have no idea what kind of paint is on there at the moment and judging by the poor matt finish and how it is flaking off, I'm thinking maybe it was water based over an oil based previous paint job.

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Non slip is a B****** to do much with. I have found that an angle grinder used carefully (Thats VERY  carefully using those sanding discs with lots of glued on segments)  followed by an orbital sander is reasonably effective and a bit of work using filler with the deep holes is a good compromise. If you can find non slip paint without grit or granules that is OK and at least it can be sanded flat next time round. Horrible stuff.

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6 hours ago, jetzi said:

 Would it work on all paint - I have no idea what kind of paint is on there at the moment and judging by the poor matt finish and how it is flaking off, I'm thinking maybe it was water based over an oil based previous paint job.

 I bought the last lot from e-bay. It is marketed by amongst others Maxolen Ltd. who are based in Armley in Leeds. IIRC I paid around £26 for 5 litres. Amazon , when they have it, want £42 for Langlow which I think is the same product. It is better used on cool steel otherwise it dries out before completely softening the paint.

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