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Integral water tank with fibreglass


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Well, maybe I could drop a plastic or steel tank in that's small enough to fit through  the existing hatch with a flexible hose connecting to the existing plumbing, and then add another tank to the roof, joining it to the water pipe inside the cabin but before the water pump. 

 

Will have to weigh up options. Keeping the well deck maintainable Is an important factor. 

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1 minute ago, Benny said:

Well, maybe I could drop a plastic or steel tank in that's small enough to fit through  the existing hatch with a flexible hose connecting to the existing plumbing, and then add another tank to the roof, joining it to the water pipe inside the cabin but before the water pump. 

 

Will have to weigh up options. Keeping the well deck maintainable Is an important factor. 

Cut the bulkhead/tank rear wall into the cabin?

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32 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

That's how I would do it but not if there was any doubt about the integrity of the hull at the front.

 

Yes that wall looks pretty sound so I'd rather keep that as cabin flood insurance I think. 

 

7 minutes ago, Phoenix_V said:

Thanks for the links 

 

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Your tank looks just like mine did.

I bought some plastic tanks that just fitted through the foredeck hatch, and now I've got 240L of onboard water I can drink, rather than 1000L of water I wouldn't wash my car with.

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6 minutes ago, Rivelin said:

Your tank looks just like mine did.

I bought some plastic tanks that just fitted through the foredeck hatch, and now I've got 240L of onboard water I can drink, rather than 1000L of water I wouldn't wash my car with.

That's awesome I like that idea. How many tanks? 2x 120 litres? How did you connect them together etc? 

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7 minutes ago, Rivelin said:

Yes, 2 x 120 litres, connected at the bottom so they fill equally. I'll dig out the suppliers name for you tomorrow.

That would be very useful, thanks 

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13 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Would still have to cut a way into the existing tank to fit it, 

 

sorry, but you are wrong.

 

the flexible tank liner comes like an inflatable boat, folded up and compact - it can be inserted through the hatch.

 

ideally there should be a hanger hook fixed under the deck (could be fixed by drilling through and inserting a s/s screw threaded eye bolt from underneath with a nut on top of the deck, with a good sealing washer) at each top corner to hang the 4 loops at the matching top corners of the liner.

 

the liners are usually made to fit the customer's measurements.  

 

the outlet hose will need to be routed through the bulkhead which will require the existing through-bulkhead fitting to be removed.

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36 minutes ago, Murflynn said:

 

sorry, but you are wrong.

 

the flexible tank liner comes like an inflatable boat, folded up and compact - it can be inserted through the hatch.

 

ideally there should be a hanger hook fixed under the deck (could be fixed by drilling through and inserting a s/s screw threaded eye bolt from underneath with a nut on top of the deck, with a good sealing washer) at each top corner to hang the 4 loops at the matching top corners of the liner.

 

the liners are usually made to fit the customer's measurements.  

 

the outlet hose will need to be routed through the bulkhead which will require the existing through-bulkhead fitting to be removed.

 

I like this idea too. I'm guessing it would be fairly removable too should I need to inspect hull every few years? Do you know any companies that make them to measure? Would the outlet still be raised up a bit like existing? 

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15 hours ago, Rivelin said:

Your tank looks just like mine did.

I bought some plastic tanks that just fitted through the foredeck hatch, and now I've got 240L of onboard water I can drink, rather than 1000L of water I wouldn't wash my car with.

But what happens in the remaining 760L of the original tank? Presumably condensation continues on the inside of the hull, causing it to continue rusting away, only now you have no access to inspect and paint it.

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2 minutes ago, David Mack said:

But what happens in the remaining 760L of the original tank? Presumably condensation continues on the inside of the hull, causing it to continue rusting away, only now you have no access to inspect and paint it.

 

I would assume they could be removed (once empty) the same way they were put in for annual inspection of hull? Maybe with some kind of belt strap around to lift them out.

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1 minute ago, David Mack said:

But what happens in the remaining 760L of the original tank? Presumably condensation continues on the inside of the hull, causing it to continue rusting away, only now you have no access to inspect and paint it.

The inside is treated, but if need be I can easily disconnect the compression fittings, pop the tanks out and clean / repaint.

 

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13 minutes ago, Benny said:

 

I would assume they could be removed (once empty) the same way they were put in for annual inspection of hull? Maybe with some kind of belt strap around to lift them out.

Yes, I unscrew the lids so I can grab hold of the lip, and lift them out.

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2 minutes ago, Rivelin said:

Yes, I unscrew the lids so I can grab hold of the lip, and lift them out.

 

Ah yes. Did you need to drill extra holes in the tanks for the water inlet pipe and to connect the tanks together? What kind of attachments did you use? I'm strongly inclined to go down this route.

5 minutes ago, Rivelin said:

Yes, I unscrew the lids so I can grab hold of the lip, and lift them out.

Oh and also, did you use the syphon method with the existing bulkhead plumbing?

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16 minutes ago, Benny said:

 

Ah yes. Did you need to drill extra holes in the tanks for the water inlet pipe and to connect the tanks together? What kind of attachments did you use? I'm strongly inclined to go down this route.

Oh and also, did you use the syphon method with the existing bulkhead plumbing?

I got 3/4 inch BSP to 22mm compression adaptors which screw into the brass fittings in the tanks. The front tank fills from the top (drilled to take the filler), and feeds to the back tank via the 22mm pipe, then a 22mm to 15mm tee allows a 15mm pipe to take water from both tanks through the bulkhead to the pump.

 

If you can fit any raised breathers in the deck I would recommend this to reduce condensation on the inside of what was the old tank.

 

 

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3 hours ago, Benny said:

 

I like this idea too. I'm guessing it would be fairly removable too should I need to inspect hull every few years? Do you know any companies that make them to measure? Would the outlet still be raised up a bit like existing? 

 

I bought mine from Hovercraft Consultants - they are offered now from https://www.griffonhoverwork.com/support-services/design-engineering/flexible-structures/ 

Perhaps this is the same company?   You can of course specify exactly the dimensions of your tank and the positions of the outlet, inlet and vent openings, and the position of the hanger strap loops.

 

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