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Two pack Hull coating


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Give your existing two pack a key with a medium grit paper, something like 240 grit. Then dust and wipe it over and you're ready for more epoxy. Before painting I normally spirit wipe with a clean rag and some of the thinners recommended for the two pack just to make sure it's clean, but as long as you've got the dust off you should be ok without doing that. 

 

Make sure you mix part A of your two pack before mixing it with part B (curing agent/hardener). Usually you mix part A & B by volume as detailed in the technical data sheet and mix it thoroughly. If you need to thin it use no more than 10% of the thinners specified in the TDS and do that after mixing parts A & B. Finally, make sure you read and follow the TDS on the minimum and maximum overcoating times.

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49 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Have just had the baseplate thoroughly scraped and polished on the Chesterfield, but I am not going to bother with grit blasting, zingering and all the rest of it, its a just the hull sides, a topcoat. I'll be long gone before boat sinks. 

It's the hull, needs re coating after 20 years, still in excellent condition, not going to do anything other than two more coats of the same. 

 

What did you use to polish the base plate? Brasso? Did it work and is it nice and shiny now ? 

Sorry. Couldn't resist! 

 

Haggis

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9 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

There are surface tolerant epoxy 2 pack paints available.

I know a boat done with SML's surface and bitumen tolerant 2 pack offering last year following the owner's hand and power tool prep - looks good so far. It's not much more expensive than decent bitumen based blacking, and since that's only good for 2 years or so, I find it hard to think this 2 pack could be much worse if there's no bad reaction. I'm probably going to try this SMK stuff with mine next month, but would be interested in any experiences of other types or other folks experience with SML's tolerant 2 pack..

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3 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

I know a boat done with SML's surface and bitumen tolerant 2 pack offering last year following the owner's hand and power tool prep - looks good so far. It's not much more expensive than decent bitumen based blacking, and since that's only good for 2 years or so, I find it hard to think this 2 pack could be much worse if there's no bad reaction. I'm probably going to try this SMK stuff with mine next month, but would be interested in any experiences of other types or other folks experience with SML's tolerant 2 pack..

My waterline looks better than it use to after a couple of years when it was standard blacking

 

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27 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I'm not going to use any kind of bitumen. Epoxy has lasted twenty years, that is good enough for me :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Where are you going to do this, is it covered or is it pot luck on the weather?

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15 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

My waterline looks better than it use to after a couple of years when it was standard blacking

 

Good to know. I know @Dr Bob would be sceptical, but if that SML 2 pack doesn't react with bitumen, I can't see it not being better than  bitumen if there's nothing unsound left on the hull. I always high-pressure wash and scraper my way to little but staining before applying bitumen anyway. 

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1 minute ago, Sea Dog said:

Good to know. I know @Dr Bob would be sceptical, but if that SML 2 pack doesn't react with bitumen, I can't see it not being better than  bitumen if there's nothing unsound left on the hull. I always high-pressure wash and scraper my way to little but staining before applying bitumen anyway. 

That was my view, Bitumen doesn't work that well, I am hoping this will be better. I will tell you next year

 

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15 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

Where are you going to do this, is it covered or is it pot luck on the weather?

I have yet to discuss the nitty gritty. It's a yard where boats get blacked regularly, not sure if I want to disclose the location, as it looks like a good deal. I assume most folks take pot luck, it's not likely to rain continually for five days.

Edited by LadyG
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13 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

That was my view, Bitumen doesn't work that well, I am hoping this will be better. I will tell you next year

 

Next year.

I'm looking at eight years  for my coating, the first coat lasted twenty years. It's not rocket science, clean surface, some local prep, compatable coating,  repeat.

I expect any decent coating  to last a year.

Edited by LadyG
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44 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I have yet to discuss the nitty gritty. It's a yard where boats get blacked regularly, not sure if I want to disclose the location, as it looks like a good deal. I assume most folks take pot luck, it's not likely to rain continually for five days.

You dont want to share the good deal or you dont have it booked yet? 

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4 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I'm going to pass the yard next week, will discuss, if it needs done this year, and check facilities and slots.

But I thought you said that the boat was out of the water and the bottom had been polished ?

 

Haggis

Edited by haggis
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Just now, ditchcrawler said:

That was my view, Bitumen doesn't work that well, I am hoping this will be better. I will tell you next year

 

It's a deal - but I'll probably be done too by then so maybe we'll be able to compare notes the year after! :D

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36 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

It's a deal - but I'll probably be done too by then so maybe we'll be able to compare notes the year after! :D

We had the same done at the same yard as Brian and we are booked on again in September to get it checked. I'll let you know what we find. I think the secret is in  the fact that Northwich Dry Dock use an extremely powerful pressure washer.

 

Haggis

 

 

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23 minutes ago, haggis said:

We had the same done at the same yard as Brian and we are booked on again in September to get it checked. I'll let you know what we find. I think the secret is in  the fact that Northwich Dry Dock use an extremely powerful pressure washer.

 

Haggis

 

 

Thanks Haggis! We have a diesel powered pressure washer, and a similar one we've used previously did a cracking job, so I'm hopeful that we'll be well on the way prep wise after that.  This year I'm also gonna be bleaching the steel with the aim to kill off any of that microbial stuff we keep hearing about. I need to make a good job of the 2 pack, cos my long haired Admiral says this is the last time I'm conning her into doing it with me!

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4 hours ago, haggis said:

But I thought you said that the boat was out of the water and the bottom had been polished ?

 

Haggis

I was referring to the lack of depth of water on the Chesterfield, sorry, it was a joke, the bottom gets polished by the abrasion. 

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2 hours ago, Hudds Lad said:

i love those baseplate blacking arguments on facebook, never takes long for the first armchair metallurgist to state that steel requires oxygen to rust and there is no oxygen down there so the baseplate cannot rust :D 

This is very easily proven as it's also the reason why Jacques Cousteau had to wear an aqua lung and fish diving deeper than 2'6" all die. ;)

 

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5 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

This is very easily proven as it's also the reason why Jacques Cousteau had to wear an aqua lung and fish diving deeper than 2'6" all die. ;)

 

 

no wonder magnet fishing is so popular, pulling all those pristine and perfectly preserved metal items out of the water, it's only when they are once more exposed to oxygen on the towpath that they suddenly rust beyond recognition ;) 

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