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Replacing an Alde boiler


jacob

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1 hour ago, jacob said:

 

The problem w/the Alde is the light at the front doesn't turn on, so it's not getting power - I've switched it on at the thermostat and flicked all the switches I can find but no luck. I'm sure it's fixable, but while I'm pretty confident with fires and electrics, gas is a foreign country to me. 

 

If the light on the front doesn't come on, then the problem is one of electrics, not gas!

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On ours (on the last boat) the only light appeared to be to indicate flame failure.

 

ours was a 29XX (I dont remember the last 2 digits) but I do remember that the 4 switches had to be in specific positions for it to operate.

Luckily I made a note of their settings before selling the boat (the new owner has asked for the settings once so far after children flicked the switches)

 

If yours has the same bank of switches as ours did (pictured below / ignore the extra little black button by the gas knob) the settings we used were...

switch positions on the boiler for normal running (from left to right)

Down (N)
Up (1 arrow)
Down (12)
Down (N)


image.png.4136d07b5a6aac5e8063c2fd8c570ac4.png

 

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1 hour ago, jacob said:

Thanks again for the help

 

The problem w/the Alde is the light at the front doesn't turn on, so it's not getting power - I've switched it on at the thermostat and flicked all the switches I can find but no luck. I'm sure it's fixable, but while I'm pretty confident with fires and electrics, gas is a foreign country to me. I'd rather install a heating system myself and be sure how it works than rely on a previous installation which is just a magic box I poke to get heat.

 

I'll keep the boiler in place, and it might be I stumble across a hidden switch somewhere and get it up and running, but for now I'm looking into stoves and shiny radiators

 

 

The 2928 does not have a "light at the front" unless its an after fitment. It does have a flashing light that shows when the igniter clicks and sparks. So its an electrical "fault". The manuals can be downloaded here: https://www.alde.co.uk/manuals-and-documents/?categories=manuals  The fault-finding is a bit poor but once you work out the wiring its easy to test with a meter.

 

If that does not light up then:

 

1. The unit is not getting any electricity, it should be wired with a fuse in its supply so find that and check it.

 

2. The microswitch under the control knob has failed or is maladjusted.

 

3. The igniter earth connection to the inner case is not making good contact.

 

4. The igniter has failed.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

The 2928 does not have a "light at the front" unless its an after fitment.

 

1 hour ago, Jess-- said:

On ours (on the last boat) the only light appeared to be to indicate flame failure.

 

ours was a 29XX (I dont remember the last 2 digits) but I do remember that the 4 switches had to be in specific positions for it to operate.

Luckily I made a note of their settings before selling the boat (the new owner has asked for the settings once so far after children flicked the switches)

 

If yours has the same bank of switches as ours did (pictured below / ignore the extra little black button by the gas knob) the settings we used were...

switch positions on the boiler for normal running (from left to right)

Down (N)
Up (1 arrow)
Down (12)
Down (N)


image.png.4136d07b5a6aac5e8063c2fd8c570ac4.png

 

 

The only thing on the front is a light, and the dial - no switches or whathaveyou

 

image.png.16c6b0133530ea945d9aba3cc4f6515f.png

 

It might be a fuse issue, I've ordered a few of ebay (they're the old torpedo type) as spares so I'll switch them out when they arrive

 

 

Edited by jacob
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11 minutes ago, jacob said:

It might be a fuse issue, I've ordered a few of ebay (they're the old torpedo type) as spares so I'll switch them out when they arrive

 

It would be a good idea, once you have a few minutes, to replace that entire fusing system with decent blade fuses.

 

The 'torpedo' fuses are the spawn of the devil and will cause you more than a few problems, initially, remove the fuse and gently sand down the silver metal ends and replace it, wiggling and rotating it as you install it, you need to ensure a good contact , even bend the receiving lugs in a little to ensure a tight contact.

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I emphasise what Alan says about those fuses. Go for modern automotive blade type fuses.

 

20 minutes ago, jacob said:

 

 

The only thing on the front is a light, and the dial - no switches or whathaveyou

 

image.png.16c6b0133530ea945d9aba3cc4f6515f.png

 

It might be a fuse issue, I've ordered a few of ebay (they're the old torpedo type) as spares so I'll switch them out when they arrive

 

 

 

There is a switch but its hidden by the bottom of the plastic moulding the "lamp" is fitted to and the front panel that you have taken off.

 

There is a bit of bent metal welded to the long rod hidden b the panel. As you twist the switch this metal "cam" closes a micro-switch when you turn the knob to the star or ignite position, then the "lamp" should flash.  I think it's one position anti-clockwise but check in the manual. Its marked on the knob top.

 

The connection between the long rod and gas valve is adjustable but don't touch that until you have used a meter to check the microswitch receives power and also has voltage on its output when the knob is in the correct position.

 

I am working from memory now. Power goes to the multi-plug on the top of the heater  and splits. One goes to the igniter circuit and the other to the slide switch on the room thermostat. When that is turned on AND the thermostat setting is such that it turns on power is supplied to the water pump in the top of the header tank "bottle".  If you have the thermostat set to max and turn the slide switch on you should hear the pump running. If it does not then make sure you have electricity to the multi-plug on top of the heater.

 

With no electricity at the top of the heater nothing will work and hose fuses are a prime candidate. I would say definably gently bend the blades that hold the fuses in place.

 

 

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41 minutes ago, jacob said:

Fusebox is definitely on my massive list of stuff to sort, it's been playing up already - would this one be able to take the load? Mainly just running lights off of it, the appliances are all 240V

 

That is a 12v DC fuse box.

 

How is your current 230v AC wired in ?

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1 hour ago, jacob said:

Fusebox is definitely on my massive list of stuff to sort, it's been playing up already - would this one be able to take the load? Mainly just running lights off of it, the appliances are all 240V

 

On the face of it yes as long as you don't try to feed an inverter through it.

 

More thoughts on the Alde wiring (over dinner). I think I was wrong. The feed goes into the top of the Alde and a positive comes straight back and the other comes from the switch back to the igniter etc. All connections via the four way lug on top of the unit. So if the pump won't run with the slide  switch on and the thermostat set to maximum  and the igniter lamp won't flash that means either the unit is not getting and electricity or the slide switch is suspect.

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13 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

On the face of it yes as long as you don't try to feed an inverter through it.

 

More thoughts on the Alde wiring (over dinner). I think I was wrong. The feed goes into the top of the Alde and a positive comes straight back and the other comes from the switch back to the igniter etc. All connections via the four way lug on top of the unit. So if the pump won't run with the slide  switch on and the thermostat set to maximum  and the igniter lamp won't flash that means either the unit is not getting and electricity or the slide switch is suspect.

Cheers - while I'm waiting for the new fuses I'll jump the slide switch connection in the thermostat to see if anything happens

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Your Alde needs two things to work - 12v and gas. Silly question first. Mine looks the same as yours - if not used for a while the gas in the pipework mysteriously 'disappears'. Option 1 when attempting to light is to re-establish gas supply. I turn on a burner on the gas hob - which will take a while to first light - then I know that there is gas in most of the pipework. Have you got gas to the Alde - is there a nearby isolator? When you 'prove' that the electrics work you may also take a wee while for the gas to come through and ignite first time.

Now electrics. You have a main power feed to the block on the top of the cabinet. Can you prove 12v there? The circulation pump in the top of the Alde header tank runs from that 12v feed but via the room thermostat. So go turn the thermostat up high and move the switch - does the pump run? Yes = power to the connector block. No = 12v feed problem.

How are you trying to light the boiler? You need to push DOWN on the black control knob and turn to the 'spark' position. This activates a microswitch under the knob via a fragile arm - if that arm is broken (easily done - ask me how I know) = no switch on. I have bypassed my microswitch with a manual 12v switch mounted beside the coloured indicator light. Push and turn the knob/activate the switch to light - wump! as pilot light lights - switch off power switch but hold black knob to heat thermocouple on flame failure device.

Still nothing? Take off the lower front cover to get at the spark generator. Track the live wire from your switch to the top of the magic black box (other colours are available). In the ignition position for the controls do you get 12v at the box terminal? The spark generator box is notoriously temperamental. They don't like being left unused for a period eg Winter. I'm onto my fourth or fifth. Swapping out that box - an expensive option - is my usual solution.

Good luck!

 

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