Jump to content

Engine connections to calorifier


Featured Posts

Good evening to all .I was looking for some advice on where to take the flow and return to cauliflower off the engine.Engine is a Mitsubishi s4l2 and is keel cooled .any help and advice appreciated.I have photos ready to post but they are bigger than 2.9mb.How do others manage to post pictures?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, robbio c said:

Good evening to all .I was looking for some advice on where to take the flow and return to cauliflower off the engine.Engine is a Mitsubishi s4l2 and is keel cooled .any help and advice appreciated.I have photos ready to post but they are bigger than 2.9mb.How do others manage to post pictures?

Resize them, I use Pic sizer https://download.cnet.com/PicSizer/3000-2192_4-75547713.html The link wont start downloading automatically so you can read about it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

For now for now have  a look at the left hand side (looking forwards) of the thermostat housing. There may be a brass plug in there. If so that will do as a feed and T the return into the return from the skin tank. However, there may be a temperature sender in that hole.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, robbio c said:

Good evening to all .I was looking for some advice on where to take the flow and return to cauliflower off the engine.Engine is a Mitsubishi s4l2 and is keel cooled .any help and advice appreciated.I have photos ready to post but they are bigger than 2.9mb.How do others manage to post pictures?

 

I think there is still a hexagon plug in the position I described and it looks like the temperature sender is in another hole beside it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Tony ye i checked that and temp sender is in first hole  as seen in picture.There is another behind it with  what looks like another sender for what i dont know so i traced wire from it and it appears to be a negative looped off oil sender ! Any ideas what it might be?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well done, the hose that needs removing or cutting is clear to see. It looks to me as if the bypass hose is clipped onto hose tails so once you get the hang of the idiot hose clips it should be easy to connect up - I would use proper worm drive hose clips.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, robbio c said:

Have managed to resize pictures 

 

 

Your battery cabling looks as if it could do with 'some sorting'.

 

It appears that your individual wires are screwed to a metal C-shape conduit clamp and then the clamp bolted to the battery terminal.

You also appear to have a black wire with a red marker sleeve going to the negative terminal. (That would normally mean it should be attached to the positive, and may cause you / someone problems when changing batteries)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

InkedIMG_08042021_183006_(1080_x_1080_pixel).jpg.2a39342787d8235fbb1173d24bf95c29_LI.jpg

InkedIMG_08042021_183006_(1080_x_1080_pixel).jpg.2a39342787d8235fbb1173d24bf95c29_LI (2).jpg

Edited by Alan de Enfield
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great thanks guys so basically i just need to to send that bypass hose through coil in caulliflower?Is that correct ?As Tracey said  i have a horizontel cauliflower so does it matter which end to which .

16 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

 

Your battery cabling looks as if it could do with 'some sorting'.

 

It appears that your individual wires are screwed to a metal C-shape conduit clamp and then the clamp bolted to the battery terminal.

You also appear to have a black wire with a red marker sleeve going to the negative terminal. (That would normally mean it should be attached to the positive, and may cause you / someone problems when changing batteries)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

thanks Alan ye  connection to starter battery need to be improved I know as for bit of red heat shrink on negative i ran out of black,bit of black tape will sort it out.Im a sparky and wired it myself hence the short cut ☺️ 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, robbio c said:

thanks Alan ye  connection to starter battery need to be improved I know as for bit of red heat shrink on negative i ran out of black,bit of black tape will sort it out.Im a sparky and wired it myself hence the short cut

 

Pretty easy to sort out (get two sets and have a spare)

 

 

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ5FzlrKSu91pSdT3Txl09fsRC941w1LxLcMgR6r2zpvCj38TZw7gdTRJCzDdpN4Y6UguPTX_Px&usqp=CAc

 

2 x Battery Terminals Pair Positive & Negative Stud Type Nut 8mm + -: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

 

 

Remember No more than 3 wires are allowed on any terminal. If you need more then run a single wire from the battery terminal to a Bus-Bar.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

53 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Am I correct now that the end going into the pump is the return to the top of the coil in the calorifier, the thermostat end is the flow to the bottom of the coli?

That is how I understand it but I would probably pipe the calorifier the other way round and see if it self bled. If it did then doing it that way might help minimise thermos-syphoning when the engine is stopped. If it did not self bleed then  would do it the way you say.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.