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Welding up old skin fitting hole waste


Feeby100

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3 minutes ago, Feeby100 said:

Hello I’ve asked Marina to weld my kitchen and bathroom waste holes so how would I expect them to do it it’s just well square plates over it but it would look ugly or cut the actual hole in metal and fitted flush 

 

I guess it depends on what you specify and what you are prepared to pay.

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The hardest part is cutting the replacement disc.  PITA with an angle grinder and takes a lot longer than cutting a square.  Easiest way is to put the right sized holesaw, without the central drill bit,  in a drill press then feed it into a piece of well clamped steel plate, stopping frequently to clear the swarf from the cut.  This does not work holding the drill or the steel freehand.

N

Edited by BEngo
Delete spill checker dwarf, insert swarf!
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5 minutes ago, BEngo said:

The hardest part is cutting the replacement disc.  PITA with an angle grinder and takes a lot longer than cutting a square.  Easiest way is to put the right sized holesaw, without the central drill bit,  in a drill press then feed it into a piece of well clamped steel plate, stopping frequently to clear the swarf from the cut.  This does not work holding the drill or the steel freehand.

N

 

 

I think I prefer "clearing the dwarf from the cut"

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28 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

 

I think I prefer "clearing the dwarf from the cut"

I wonder if Land and Water have a special dredger for that? CaRT would no doubt oppose it, as it would reduce their visit numbers.

 

 

N

 

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2 hours ago, Feeby100 said:

Hello I’ve asked Marina to weld my kitchen and bathroom waste holes ...

 

 

Have you thought about all that waste water which will drain into your bilges once the hole is blanked off? ?

 

Seriously, if it's above the waterline and you're not getting it done because it's badly corroded, etc,, then I wouldn't even bother - as long as the skin fitting was fitted properly in the first place. I blanked off an unused 3/4" skin fitting by smothering a plastic wine bottle cork in PU sealant and pushing it into the fitting! A perfect tight fit. It might be a small bodgeola but it works fine. That was over 10 years ago and it's still solid and sealed. Obviously anything below or close to the waterline needs to be properly welded.

Edited by blackrose
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3 hours ago, Feeby100 said:

Mm good idea would the brass be ok to use won’t react with the steel 

Well, my boat's 20+ years old with several holes in the hull and I haven't noticed any huge amout of rust - though I did put fibre washers  and mebe  a bit of gunge to aid the sealing.

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When I re-fitted Helvetia, one of the sinks was removed, and Roger Farrington welded up the wastepipe hole. He cut a square hole round the original round one, which was a bit rusty around the edges, and made up a square plate of equivalent size. He tacked a strip of steel across the plate and then tacked that onto the hull, he welded the top and bottom edges of the plate onto the hull, removed the tacked on strip and welded in the the edges of the square plate, and grinding it all flat. It took him less than 30 minutes for the entire job.

 

 

Edited by David Schweizer
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  • 5 months later...

I have just filled a redundant pumpout hole.  I bought a circle of ~ 4mm steel from a place in East London but I can't remember what it was called, neither the piece nor the place.  They had them ready made for some purpose, maybe welding.  The smallest they had was ~4mm oversize all round so I filed that down which took a while, to a tapered bath plug shape giving an interference fit.  I then hammered that into the hole.

Edited to add the standard - "updated RCD applied for to minimise the risk of my being sued by somebody getting their dog's leg stuck in the hole should the patch fail in 40 year's time".

Edited by system 4-50
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