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Prepping roof for a new ceiling


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Hullo hullo

 

Me and my partner bought a boat last week (whoop whoop!), based at Limehouse marina

 

The ceiling at the front was in a bad state - the batons had come away from the roof and some damp had got in, so I've been ripping it down. There's a whole load of surface rust on the roof that I'll treat with Vactan, but I'm not too sure what kind of paint (if any) to cover it with - red oxide maybe? Here's a rust pic for your consideration:

 

699152512_Screenshotfrom2021-04-0518-27-50.png.b4855bca04eda82d3ab30bf303c3709c.png

 

 

Also, we want to put up some tongue and groove to replace the old flaky plywood. There's some curved metal beams going crossways - what kind of baton would best suit going in between this and the t+g? Wickes do some nice treated stuff, but I don't reckon it'll curve and flex along the roof

 

Any thoughts at all would be much appreciated :)

 

- Jacob

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I think it will need mechanical abrasion to get rid of the  rust before applying Vactan.

 

If the treated buttons are the correct dimensions the cutting 1/2 to 3/4 of the way through at 2 inches or so intervals will allow it to bend to the deckhead profile

 

  • Greenie 2
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And you need insulation between the battens. As this is a partial retrofit, Kingspan or Cellotex is the way forward. Glued to the steelwork with something like stixall after you have derusted and painted. Probably easier to use several thin sheets so you can bend it to the curve of the roof. Will need to be propped into shape until the glue has set. Fill any gaps with aerosol sprayfoam (difficult overhead), then tape the joints and across your new battens  with aluminised tape to provide a vapour barrier.

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Just now, David Mack said:

And you need insulation between the battens. As this is a partial retrofit, Kingspan or Cellotex is the way forward. Glued to the steelwork with something like stixall after you have derusted and painted. Probably easier to use several thin sheets so you can bend it to the curve of the roof. Will need to be propped into shape until the glue has set. Fill any gaps with aerosol sprayfoam (difficult overhead), then tape the joints and across your new battens  with aluminised tape to provide a vapour barrier.

After an afternoon getting scratched by the old fibreglass that was there, I'm going to switch it to something a bit less abrasive, cheers for the info 

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16 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

Deck head........just sayin like ;)

As an ex lumpy water person I've long given up on individuals using the the correct terms when referring to boatie bits. Front, back, left, right, kitchen, living room, bathroom etc, etc.  :boat:

 

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11 minutes ago, Slim said:

As an ex lumpy water person I've long given up on individuals using the the correct terms when referring to boatie bits. Front, back, left, right, kitchen, living room, bathroom etc, etc.  :boat:

 

To be honest I dont use the correct terms often. Its pointless as many boat owners dont understand and saying parking and driving makes more sense as they know what ya mean!! :D

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Run the wooden battens lengthways along the boat then you wont need to bend them. I assume the steel framing is box section running across the boat? Fix the battens to these with stainless steel self tapping screws. The battens will help to hold the insulation boards in place.

 

Do the ceiling/deckhead in plywood fixed to the battens. Don't use T&G. Plywood is strong and dimensionally stable. T&G, especially softwood, will expand with the seasons and work loose/pop off.

 

................Dave

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14 hours ago, mrsmelly said:

To be honest I dont use the correct terms often. Its pointless as many boat owners dont understand and saying parking and driving makes more sense as they know what ya mean!! :D

'Driving' Aargh. really grates with me, I've always used 'steering'. I'm sure that is probably wrong too but its the only thing I've ever  been wrong about so I can live with it. Good luck with your boatless life too.

  • Greenie 1
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Just now, Bee said:

'Driving' Aargh. really grates with me, I've always used 'steering'. I'm sure that is probably wrong too but its the only thing I've ever  been wrong about so I can live with it. Good luck with your boatless life too.

Dont remind me :( Ive let the new owner leave it here on the moorings until his booked leave from work to move it to its new location and see it every day.

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3 minutes ago, Bee said:

'Driving' Aargh. really grates with me, I've always used 'steering'. I'm sure that is probably wrong too .....

 

 

You 'helm' a boat.

You are "at the helm", in charge of the boat.

 

Does it really matter, if we know what is meant is it wrong ?

 

Is Amps per hours so wrong when we know what the person using it means ?

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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16 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

 

You 'helm' a boat.

You are "at the helm", in charge of the boat.

 

Does it really matter, if we know what is meant is it wrong ?

 

Is Amps per hours so wrong when we know what the person using it means ?

I used to helm sea going stuff and as soon as I grabbed the tiller or wheel I always needed to go to the heads. Never feels quite right on a canal boat though, like wearing a captains hat on the Grand Union. 

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1 hour ago, Bee said:

'Driving' Aargh. really grates with me, I've always used 'steering'. I'm sure that is probably wrong too but its the only thing I've ever  been wrong about so I can live with it. Good luck with your boatless life too.

I often park the boat and moor the car.

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22 hours ago, jacob said:

After an afternoon getting scratched by the old fibreglass that was there, I'm going to switch it to something a bit less abrasive, cheers for the info 

Not sure where fibreglass comes in to it, but you need to click and collect at Screwfix

3m masks, the good ones

Safety Goggles

Safety Glasses

Gloves, decent things for protection

A scraper

Cup brush on a drill or an angle grinder

Dust sheets if you are fussy

Wet n dry vac

A dremel drill will get right in to the rust, it's all got to go. 

Edited by LadyG
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20 hours ago, dmr said:

 

 

. Don't use T&G. Plywood is strong and dimensionally stable. T&G, especially softwood, will expand with the seasons and work loose/pop off.

 

................Dave

I assume that would be the B&Q flooring boards, but I've seen lots of nice woodwork, I thought it was parana pine or something, fairly narrow. I would think specialist timber merchant, and quite expensive. 

I'm looking for some veneer at the moment, and some veneered ply, not sure where to buy it, other than from t'internet. 

Edited by LadyG
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4 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Agreed, it's horrid stuff, that's one reason for the gloves, coveralls a good idea too....... 

as kids in the very early 80's we spent a happy summer evening jumping into piles of it on the "yuppie flat" building site in our village, next day most of us had rashes and cuts all over the legs and arms :( 

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23 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I assume that would be the B&Q flooring boards, but I've seen lots of nice woodwork, I thought it was parana pine or something, fairly narrow. I would think specialist timber merchant, and quite expensive. 

I'm looking for some veneer at the moment, and some veneered ply, not sure where to buy it, other than from t'internet. 

 

There are a few timber merchants and good builders merchants who stock veneered ply, which one do you want?

Getting 8x4 sheets delivered by the postman is difficult but some timber merchants will deliver locally in their own van.

 

Internet shopping is not really much good for stuff like this, I would want to go and have a good look at the grain pattern before buying.

 

............Dave

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1 hour ago, dmr said:

 

There are a few timber merchants and good builders merchants who stock veneered ply, which one do you want?

Getting 8x4 sheets delivered by the postman is difficult but some timber merchants will deliver locally in their own van.

 

Internet shopping is not really much good for stuff like this, I would want to go and have a good look at the grain pattern before buying.

 

............Dave

Exactly, and as I have almost no tools, or power, it would be great if they could cut to order. I have been using oak trim, so oak veneer seems like it, but I have asked a good boat fitter if he can fit in two days cabinet work, re vamping  my galley, so awaiting his response before I try do do it myself, I should have realised that kitchen fitters, even if willing are booked up for months ahead. The boat fitter would probably prefer to order the stuff himself, two new worksurfaces are also required, I was hoping to get some premium stuff , off cuts from Ebay, but not confident. In fact, having lookedvon ebay I now realise I have no idea what worktops are required, those fancy shiny things mostly seem to be wood flakes covered with something. I am going to buy some foil wallpaper stuff to cover my existing work tops, I tried Fablon type stuff before and it was fine for six months. Then tried paint, not good.

Edited by LadyG
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14 hours ago, LadyG said:

 I am going to buy some foil wallpaper stuff to cover my existing work tops, I tried Fablon type stuff before and it was fine for six months. Then tried paint, not good.

 

Are you aware that you can get a sort of reinstituted "stone" preformed skin to put over existing worktops. Usually an L section rather than having a radius at the front edge like older worktops.

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On 07/04/2021 at 08:54, Tony Brooks said:

 

Are you aware that you can get a sort of reinstituted "stone" preformed skin to put over existing worktops. Usually an L section rather than having a radius at the front edge like older worktops.

I'm on it :)

tx

jo

 

Edited by LadyG
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