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lpws4 go into gear but no revs


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4 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Yes.

 

And 54 and 56 retain it.

 

In which case I'm missing something.

There appears to be no connection - 55 is a simple peg  in one of three-holes and is not in contact with 54 and 56

 

If the washer is covering the top of the pin, how would anything end up under the engine ?

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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3 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

In which case I'm missing something.

There appears to be no connection - 55 is a simple peg  in one of three-holes and is not in contact with 54 and 56

 

If the washer is covering the top of the pin, how would anything end up under the engine ?

 

Remember that the bolt was found to be loose some posts back.

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3 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Remember that the bolt was found to be loose some posts back.

If the engine has been running for some time with the centre bolt loose the  maybe the pin sheared off.

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38 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

In which case I'm missing something.

There appears to be no connection - 55 is a simple peg  in one of three-holes and is not in contact with 54 and 56

 

Look at the diagram again - there's a faint line that shows where pin 55 goes under washer 54

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Its a diesel engine, massive vibrations. Enough to shake a bolt loose so enough to shake a loose peg out of a hole and into liberation to we know not where. Its a very complicated assembly for a throttle linkage.

 

Now the question is which hole of the three?

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10 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Its a diesel engine, massive vibrations. Enough to shake a bolt loose so enough to shake a loose peg out of a hole and into liberation to we know not where. Its a very complicated assembly for a throttle linkage.

 

Now the question is which hole of the three?

im guessing the middle one, the idle does sounds like its running a bit fast. maybe trial and error with the other holes will slow it down a touch

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4 minutes ago, pluto83 said:

part 55 says its a spring pin, will I need to get one or will a drill bit work just as well???

A spring pin would be the best as long as the holes haven't worn to different sizes.

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1 hour ago, pluto83 said:

part 55 says its a spring pin, will I need to get one or will a drill bit work just as well???

 

A spring in or roll pin will normally compress a little as its driven in so a spring/roll pin will be a tighter fit even if there is a very small amount of wear.

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Just wanted to update you all, its not worked. where the pin and nut go, its seized most likely why it sheered the pin.

 

does any one know a way to access it.

 

at the moment im just filling it with wd and tomorrow im buying penetrating oil, fingeres crossed it will free it self.

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@Steve56 is probably your man on this because he is very familiar with the engine. The spindle must in some way preload a spring that in turn alters the control rack but I don't know the exact mechanism. Anything could be seized up but I would try tapping downwards onto the spindle with the ball end of a small hammer in the hope its just seized in the block or in that rusty cast iron piece.

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If you look at the diagram I posted earlier in the post it looks as if spindle 58 has seized in bush 53. You may be lucky and free it off with soaking in WD40, bur I have my doubts. To be able to remove this spindle you would need to remove the timing end cover from the engine, and then remove items 19,20 & 54 from the underside of the spindle, then it should come out. Although if seized you will have a bit of a fight with it. Also when the end cover is removed you'll probably be working blind asI suspect you won't be too far from a bulkhead. I would respectfully suggest tat unless you are sure of what you are doing find an engineer to sort things out.

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1 minute ago, Steve56 said:

If you look at the diagram I posted earlier in the post it looks as if spindle 58 has seized in bush 53. You may be lucky and free it off with soaking in WD40, bur I have my doubts. To be able to remove this spindle you would need to remove the timing end cover from the engine, and then remove items 19,20 & 54 from the underside of the spindle, then it should come out. Although if seized you will have a bit of a fight with it. Also when the end cover is removed you'll probably be working blind asI suspect you won't be too far from a bulkhead. I would respectfully suggest tat unless you are sure of what you are doing find an engineer to sort things out.

there is a friend of mine in the boat club a lot more mechanically minded reading over the manual for me, I did suspect it was 58 and 53 that area, just praying it will soak down that far

3 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

I find Plusgas lots lots better than wd40 for penetrating rust and freeing things off

ive been told wd isn't a real penetrating oil, been advised to get something else

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It is an unusual problem that I've never seen happen before. The only thing I can think of is that the o-ring, item 18 in the diagram has failed and allowed water to enter between the spindle and bush. Thats only a guess, but I can see no other reason.

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Looking back at the photos as Tracy D'arth says the engine does look particularly rusty. I also see that it is a heat exchanger cooled engine. Is it used in salt water conditions by any chance.

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1 hour ago, pluto83 said:

at the moment im just filling it with wd and tomorrow im buying penetrating oil, fingeres crossed it will free it self.

 

You are wasting your time with WD40. 

WD40 is a 'Water Dispersant' - Hence the WD - (blend no 40), It is not a pentrating oil and has very limited 'oiling' properties.

 

You need proper penetrating oil, save your WD40 for what is was designed for - getting water out of electrical junction boxes.

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