lpws4 go into gear but no revs

[pluto83]

hello again just had my boat in the yard, and am stumped what the issue is, online searching are all for error codes for the similar problem.

 

issue is I have a lpws4 and it goes into gear but it won't rev Im only getting one knot out of my boat now. 

 

the throttle lever moves but no more than idle revs, any ideas please? 

Edited April 4, 2021 by pluto83

[springy]

will the revs pick up in neutral - if so check prop isn't fouled, if not - broken/disconnected throttle cable

could be a wide variety of things but that's where i'd start

 

springy

Edited April 4, 2021 by springy

[Tony Brooks]

Less likely than the above but the stop control may not be going fully to the run position.

[pluto83]

46 minutes ago, springy said:

will the revs pick up in neutral - if so check prop isn't fouled, if not - broken/disconnected throttle cable

could be a wide variety of things but that's where i'd start

 

springy

no I had the control apart. its moving fine, but no extra revs, props not fouled I Tok the boat for a run but getting no more than a knot or 2. throttle cable seems to be moving the plate freely.

25 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

Less likely than the above but the stop control may not be going fully to the run position.

I will check but she's running lovely at idle. does feel like a bit of play vertically. could it be a fuel blockage or compression. she sounds sweet maybe a bit fast 

Edited April 4, 2021 by pluto83

[Ray T]

Worth looking at the fuel control solenoid?

 

Jammed partially open / closed?

 

From the LPWS workshop manual trouble shooting.

 

Edited April 4, 2021 by Ray T

[springy]

Fuel supply, most likely -check filter(s), pickup pipe, lift pump.

Unlikely, but a friend had an LPWS3 which IIRC had similar symptoms, which turned out to be the return spring on the pump elements - 2 of the 3 were broken.

 

 

springy

[pluto83]

9 minutes ago, springy said:

Fuel supply, most likely -check filter(s), pickup pipe, lift pump.

Unlikely, but a friend had an LPWS3 which IIRC had similar symptoms, which turned out to be the return spring on the pump elements - 2 of the 3 were broken.

 

 

springy

Ive only just freed the fuel lift pump today, recon it could be that?

18 minutes ago, Ray T said:

Worth looking at the fuel control solenoid?

 

Jammed partially open / closed?

 

From the LPWS workshop manual trouble shooting.

 

ive got a heat exchanger and a massive oil cooler in that place

[Tony Brooks]

What do you mean by "freed"? If its only providing a dribble it could well be the problem. If you have had it off its possible (without knowing the engine) that it is not back on correctly. Loads of BMC1.5 lift pumps destroyed like that. At the inlet to the injection pump expect about an eggcup full every two engien revolutions, maybe a little less with that pump.

[pluto83]

the tab was seized in the up position since ive owed it, all week been spraying wd40 on it and only this morning it started to move. its might be something to do with that, previously I primed it by cracking a injected, with covid its not run for nearly a year.

[Tony Brooks]

The "tab" is probably the priming lever and if it was stuck up rather down I am surprised it ran. Actually I would expect the engine to force the lever in a position that allows the full deliver of fuel.

 

Do you have at least 6" of fuel in the tank?

Have you sucked/syphoned any water/crud form the bottom of the tank - if so were there any signs of bug?

Have you changed all the fuel filters and cleaned any water traps?

What volume of fuel does the pump deliver per two engine revs? You could test this by taking the engine fuel filter off and holding a tray beneath the filter head or catching the fuel flowing from a bleed screw that has been taken out.

[pluto83]

not sure will get back to you tomorrow about that, I have loads of fuel half a tank, not messed around with that, I fixed the raw water pumps drip today, not sure what the water traps are?

2 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

The "tab" is probably the priming lever and if it was stuck up rather down I am surprised it ran. Actually I would expect the engine to force the lever in a position that allows the full deliver of fuel.

 

Do you have at least 6" of fuel in the tank?

Have you sucked/syphoned any water/crud form the bottom of the tank - if so were there any signs of bug?

Have you changed all the fuel filters and cleaned any water traps?

What volume of fuel does the pump deliver per two engine revs? You could test this by taking the engine fuel filter off and holding a tray beneath the filter head or catching the fuel flowing from a bleed screw that has been taken out.

 

[Tony Brooks]

Study the maintenance notes on my website www.tb-training.co.uk. It may help you a lot.

 

It's not likely but not impossible that you have a load of bug in the tank that is blocking the filters etc.

[Alan de Enfield]

9 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

.......... not impossible that you have a load of bug

 

 

He did say he has injected it with Covid !!

[pluto83]

13 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

Study the maintenance notes on my website www.tb-training.co.uk. It may help you a lot.

 

It's not likely but not impossible that you have a load of bug in the tank that is blocking the filters etc.

too cold today to do much, run back home but I think it was the nut, it was slack I got about 15 turns on it and its tight now. do you recon that could of been the cause? I couldn't test it not enough water under the boat

 

The weekend im changing all the filters, oil coolant and clean the fuel lines.

Edited April 5, 2021 by pluto83

[Tony Brooks]

2 minutes ago, pluto83 said:

too cold today to do much, run back home but I think it was the nut, it was slack I got about 15 turns on it and its tight now. do you recon that could of been the cause? I couldn't test it not enough water under the boat

 

The weekend im changing all the filters, oil coolant and clean the fuel lines.

 

Nut??? What nut? I don't recall you mentioning a nut before. I doubt you have a photo so  a good description of where this nut is please.

[pluto83]

the throttle lever, on the engine the plate 

[Alan de Enfield]

1 minute ago, pluto83 said:

the throttle lever, on the engine the plate 

 

 

The nut trapping the throttle cable to stop it sliding ?

[pluto83]

Just now, Alan de Enfield said:

 

 

The nut trapping the throttle cable to stop it sliding ?

yes

 

1 minute ago, Alan de Enfield said:

the thing that revs the engine, goes horizontal 

 

 

The nut trapping the throttle cable to stop it sliding ?

 

[Alan de Enfield]

 

1 minute ago, pluto83 said:

yes

 

That's your answer - you were not moving the throttle when you moved the lever, just the cable.

It would only be running at tickover.

 

A simple mistake to forget tightening everything up if you have been working on the engine - I'm sure it'll now be running perfectly.

[Tony Brooks]

Then the answer is yes, in all probability the lever on the engine never moved, the cable outer just slid under the clamp.

[pluto83]

fingers crossed, once the service is done I can paint it. will post pics because im proud how clean its come up, the bag of rust is looking and running good

1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:

Then the answer is yes, in all probability the lever on the engine never moved, the cable outer just slid under the clamp.

the lever moved but I don't think in was making contact inside the engine

[Tony Brooks]

1 minute ago, pluto83 said:

fingers crossed, once the service is done I can paint it. will post pics because im proud how clean its come up, the bag of rust is looking and running good

the lever moved but I don't think in was making contact inside the engine

 

Then the answer to Alan's's question is not the one you gave. We can now assume that you were talking about the nut that secures the lever on the engine to its spindle - see why I asked for a photo or an exact description of where this nut is located.

 

I have yet to come across a throttle lever that is located on its spindle by friction but that does not mean to say none are. I am fairly sure Lister would have one or two flats on the spindle or splines with a matching hole in the lever. If so you need to ensure the lever is properly located on its spindle because it could be just siting on to of the splines/flats rather than right down on the spindle. If so then it could easily work loose again.

 

 

[pluto83]

16 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Then the answer to Alan's's question is not the one you gave. We can now assume that you were talking about the nut that secures the lever on the engine to its spindle - see why I asked for a photo or an exact description of where this nut is located.

 

I have yet to come across a throttle lever that is located on its spindle by friction but that does not mean to say none are. I am fairly sure Lister would have one or two flats on the spindle or splines with a matching hole in the lever. If so you need to ensure the lever is properly located on its spindle because it could be just siting on to of the splines/flats rather than right down on the spindle. If so then it could easily work loose again.

 

 

Thankyou I get what you mean, I will after testing remove and make sure to mount the flat to the spindle. I haven't found that in the manual, but now I know just how it works

[Tony Brooks]

Just now, pluto83 said:

Thankyou I get what you mean, I will after testing remove and make sure to mount the flat to the spindle. I haven't found that in the manual, but now I know just how it works

 

Things like that won't normally be in the manual because its just standard engineering practice. Those reading a manufacturer's manual are assumed to know. You might find it mentioned in a consumer manual like the  old Haynes ones but even that is unlikely because there is normally no reason to take that lever off.

[pluto83]

Just now, Tony Brooks said:

 

Things like that won't normally be in the manual because its just standard engineering practice. Those reading a manufacturer's manual are assumed to know. You might find it mentioned in a consumer manual like the  old Haynes ones but even that is unlikely because there is normally no reason to take that lever off.

its my first ever engine, total newbie