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New(Old) Leak


matty40s
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I have noticed the coolant level dropping in the last 12 months, not a lot, but all of a sudden it seems to have accelerated, last pumpout cruise of an hour at most resulted in a hot exhaust smell. 

Seeing some rusty water stains,  cleaned the side of the lower water jacket, and paint away, and found bad news.

Old (unknown date, didn't know about it until today!!)crack repair has sprung a leak.

Do we know of a chemical metal putty that can be used without emptying the whole cooling system?(only did it last July), or is it stitching time.

 

I have been considering a complete rebuild for longevity of our ownership, maybe it's time.

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Whilst awaiting a proper repair by welding or stitching, bung a can of Radweld in, you will be surprised how well it can work.

Epoxy putty may work but you need to empty and dry the crack and force the putty into the crack, a small hammer is the best way but light taps only!

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1 hour ago, Markinaboat said:

I had a similar issue when I had the Kelvin K3. Fixed it with JB Weld (Waterweld). Sanded and painted well too. Good luck

Ah, yes, forgot that name, that was what I used on the top cylinder water jacket several years ago. Ta

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Oh Matty, why are you asking here? You know more about boats than 99% of this forum.  I see cracks radiating out in several directions, the metal here is rotten (a welder I know used to call it lace). This needs a big and skilled repair. If you poke it you will regret it. ?

Metal loaded epoxy putty in the short term but a big  repair very soon, and a chance that you have a really big problem.

 

............Dave

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Looks like MPS Vintage Diesels or Tangent are going to get a call then.

6 minutes ago, dmr said:

Oh Matty, why are you asking here? 

 

When it's your own, you have to get a 2nd opinion as mine might be walletly jaundiced.

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1 minute ago, matty40s said:

Looks like MPS Vintage Diesels or Tangent are going to get a call then.

 

I didn't like to say that but talk to the experts, is the 2L2 (?) prone to localised failure here or is this a wider corrosion issue? If its local than a repair might work, the boss could be a starting point for a plate of some sort, but if its wider corrosion then its not good. I believe stitching is good for a crack in good metal but won't work if its all gone thin. Speak to the experts.

 

...............Dave

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If that was just any old engine that didn't matter very much I think as a last resort I would cut a plate to fit round the tap boss with a few inches all around it and drill. tap and bolt it over the dodgy bit with a gasket then weld it to the (probably) steel flange with the tap in it.  Good luck.

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13 hours ago, Bee said:

If that was just any old engine that didn't matter very much I think as a last resort I would cut a plate to fit round the tap boss with a few inches all around it and drill. tap and bolt it over the dodgy bit with a gasket then weld it to the (probably) steel flange with the tap in it.  Good luck.

It's coming up to its 80th, not sure a colostomy bag and nappies are a fitting show of elder respect.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Matt

As a short term fix then a wonderful product is “Devcon” molecular metal putty or “Belzona” molecular are two products most older ships carry with them to effect similar repairs. A really good Gardner man based at Alfreton is Rob Knowles . He’s rebuilt numerous LW engines in the past and I’m sure he might know of a good L2 specialist that may be able to help with a replacement block. Sorry to hear of your predicament. I’ll let you have Robs phone No if it helps.

Good luck Bramangie 

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  • 3 months later...
5 minutes ago, jacko264 said:

Have a look at belzona  it’s good  to use 

Graham 

We used that in the Royal Navy - impressive when you need something to get you out of a metallurgical jam in the middle of nowhere, but eye wateringly expensive if you have to pay for it yourself!

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