matty40s Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 I have noticed the coolant level dropping in the last 12 months, not a lot, but all of a sudden it seems to have accelerated, last pumpout cruise of an hour at most resulted in a hot exhaust smell. Seeing some rusty water stains, cleaned the side of the lower water jacket, and paint away, and found bad news. Old (unknown date, didn't know about it until today!!)crack repair has sprung a leak. Do we know of a chemical metal putty that can be used without emptying the whole cooling system?(only did it last July), or is it stitching time. I have been considering a complete rebuild for longevity of our ownership, maybe it's time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy D'arth Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 Whilst awaiting a proper repair by welding or stitching, bung a can of Radweld in, you will be surprised how well it can work. Epoxy putty may work but you need to empty and dry the crack and force the putty into the crack, a small hammer is the best way but light taps only! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markinaboat Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 I had a similar issue when I had the Kelvin K3. Fixed it with JB Weld (Waterweld). Sanded and painted well too. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matty40s Posted March 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 1 hour ago, Markinaboat said: I had a similar issue when I had the Kelvin K3. Fixed it with JB Weld (Waterweld). Sanded and painted well too. Good luck Ah, yes, forgot that name, that was what I used on the top cylinder water jacket several years ago. Ta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmr Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 Oh Matty, why are you asking here? You know more about boats than 99% of this forum. I see cracks radiating out in several directions, the metal here is rotten (a welder I know used to call it lace). This needs a big and skilled repair. If you poke it you will regret it. ? Metal loaded epoxy putty in the short term but a big repair very soon, and a chance that you have a really big problem. ............Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matty40s Posted March 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 Looks like MPS Vintage Diesels or Tangent are going to get a call then. 6 minutes ago, dmr said: Oh Matty, why are you asking here? When it's your own, you have to get a 2nd opinion as mine might be walletly jaundiced. 1 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmr Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 1 minute ago, matty40s said: Looks like MPS Vintage Diesels or Tangent are going to get a call then. I didn't like to say that but talk to the experts, is the 2L2 (?) prone to localised failure here or is this a wider corrosion issue? If its local than a repair might work, the boss could be a starting point for a plate of some sort, but if its wider corrosion then its not good. I believe stitching is good for a crack in good metal but won't work if its all gone thin. Speak to the experts. ...............Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bee Posted April 1, 2021 Report Share Posted April 1, 2021 If that was just any old engine that didn't matter very much I think as a last resort I would cut a plate to fit round the tap boss with a few inches all around it and drill. tap and bolt it over the dodgy bit with a gasket then weld it to the (probably) steel flange with the tap in it. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matty40s Posted April 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2021 13 hours ago, Bee said: If that was just any old engine that didn't matter very much I think as a last resort I would cut a plate to fit round the tap boss with a few inches all around it and drill. tap and bolt it over the dodgy bit with a gasket then weld it to the (probably) steel flange with the tap in it. Good luck. It's coming up to its 80th, not sure a colostomy bag and nappies are a fitting show of elder respect. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markinaboat Posted April 2, 2021 Report Share Posted April 2, 2021 Just now, Markinaboat said: Here you go Matt. Give Charles Mills a call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bramangie Posted May 4, 2021 Report Share Posted May 4, 2021 Hi Matt As a short term fix then a wonderful product is “Devcon” molecular metal putty or “Belzona” molecular are two products most older ships carry with them to effect similar repairs. A really good Gardner man based at Alfreton is Rob Knowles . He’s rebuilt numerous LW engines in the past and I’m sure he might know of a good L2 specialist that may be able to help with a replacement block. Sorry to hear of your predicament. I’ll let you have Robs phone No if it helps. Good luck Bramangie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacko264 Posted August 13, 2021 Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 Have a look at belzona it’s good to use Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sea Dog Posted August 13, 2021 Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 5 minutes ago, jacko264 said: Have a look at belzona it’s good to use Graham We used that in the Royal Navy - impressive when you need something to get you out of a metallurgical jam in the middle of nowhere, but eye wateringly expensive if you have to pay for it yourself! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacko264 Posted August 13, 2021 Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 And if you use it don’t get it on your hands it will make your hands black where you touch it-use gloves Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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