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Rudder with a Destroyed Top Bearing


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21 minutes ago, Phoenix_V said:

A bit late for the original poster but you can get rubber bearings to avoid rust problems https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/products/warstock-1-1-2-dia-std-unit-sg-027

 

Our last narrow boat simply used a bit of steel pipe welded to a square plate, never gave any problems

Indeed, you can't beat plain bearings for that application. Those wretched ball race units are not really marine bearings for rudder use, but industrial bearings, self centering for shafting.  Ball and roller races are meant to revolve around completely not trunion fashion like a rudder, back and forth in one small arc.

Edited by bizzard
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25 minutes ago, bizzard said:

In order to remove things like the swan neck from the stock or the inner bearing track ordinary blow torches are not really hot enough and too slow they tend to heat the whole thing up and everything heats up at the same time so no sudden expansion to release the female part. A hot oxy-aceylene flame played upon one spot on one side will cause sudden quick expansion and quick release, but no everyone has got oxy-acetylene.

Dan has. Well I think it is. Propane and oxygen torch.

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Another tip, pinched from a fellow boater.

When reassembling fit a sink plunger rubber on the shaft above and to cover the bearing housing before you replace the swan neck. Keeps the water and crap out and will prolong bearing life.

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16 minutes ago, MarkH2159 said:

Another tip, pinched from a fellow boater.

When reassembling fit a sink plunger rubber on the shaft above and to cover the bearing housing before you replace the swan neck. Keeps the water and crap out and will prolong bearing life.

 

Except on many boats the water and crap is driven up the rudder tube by the prop, often in reverse. Normally a large rubber washer (split f needed) is fitted to the shaft under the hull.

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2 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Except on many boats the water and crap is driven up the rudder tube by the prop, often in reverse. Normally a large rubber washer (split f needed) is fitted to the shaft under the hull.

Yep and one on the top would help keep the rain off, no harm in having both.

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If you fit a vehicle drive shaft gaiter over the top bearing universal stick together ones are available from motor factors to save removing the swan neck.  You can cut either end of them to size first.

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Having struggled with the original, I worked a bit harder at getting the 'right' replacement and made sure I got one with a grease nipple on it.

 

Looking at the initial post I notice that the plumber block has a grease nipple - but its been painted over.....

Edited by OldGoat
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4 hours ago, Phoenix_V said:

A bit late for the original poster but you can get rubber bearings to avoid rust problems https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/products/warstock-1-1-2-dia-std-unit-sg-027

 

Our last narrow boat simply used a bit of steel pipe welded to a square plate, never gave any problems

Warstock bearing, can they be cut?

I'm looking at replacing our warstock bearing, if I can unbolt the housing, an lift it up enough, the old packing can be cut away, but can a new one be cut/split open enough to go around the shaft?

 

Bod

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1 hour ago, Bod said:

Warstock bearing, can they be cut?

I'm looking at replacing our warstock bearing, if I can unbolt the housing, an lift it up enough, the old packing can be cut away, but can a new one be cut/split open enough to go around the shaft?

 

Bod

I think you may have to be the pioneer and let us know. I am quite taken by the warstock idea does anyone know if the bearing split or otherwise will fit into a standard bearing housing - or if the housings are different?

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