Jump to content

SR2 Leak Off


BODs SR2

Featured Posts

1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

FWIW all our SL4s had them and they were mated to LH150 boxes so were bought as marine units.

I think by the time Listers were doing the SR engines they were not used. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

25 minutes ago, Steve56 said:

 

We need to see the other side of the pump in the photo.

Image 1 & 2 shows the start/stop handle and all the linkeage shown in the manual for it seems to be enclosed in impenetrable casing. The only idloe adjustment I can seem to get to is the adjuster screw on image 3. I need to try and adjust it though because the setting marks on the pump linkage should be visible next to the pump body but they are hiding behind it a couple of mm.

image3.jpeg

IMG_1179.JPG

IMG_1180.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, BODs SR2 said:

 

Image 1 & 2 shows the start/stop handle and all the linkeage shown in the manual for it seems to be enclosed in impenetrable casing. The only idloe adjustment I can seem to get to is the adjuster screw on image 3. I need to try and adjust it though because the setting marks on the pump linkage should be visible next to the pump body but they are hiding behind it a couple of mm.

image3.jpeg

IMG_1179.JPG

IMG_1180.JPG

As I said in the earlier post I need to see the complete flywheel end injection pump showing the whole linkage. The photo you posted only showed  half of the pump.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, BODs SR2 said:

Ill sort it tomorrow off out for a run. Thanks for your interest. Is it best to PM.

OK thats fine. Probably best to post here as it my be of interest to others. Unless of course I am told anything different.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Steve56 said:

OK thats fine. Probably best to post here as it my be of interest to others. Unless of course I am told anything different.

 

13 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

I want to see the whole thing and your reply/advice. Every day is a school day!

Morning chaps here's the linkage in all its glory. I need to adjust it cos the calibration marks are too far over to the left and are hidden behind the pumps body by about 2mm whereas the manual says they must be visible just next to the body (right side). I cant see a way of doing this other than adjusting the stop cable to pull them over a bit.

The other issue is the idle speed where the only adjustment I can find is the screw on the throttle lever linkage shown on the other pics.

The icing on the cake would be if anyone can explain what happens mechanically when I open up the throttle and the rod is pulled out of the casing accordingly. everything seems hidden and inaccessible. Just interested for future ref if it needs attending to.

Cheers.

IMG_1185[1114].jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can answer the what happens bit. It is explained in general terms here http://www.tb-training.co.uk/CIsys.htm

You will need the inline pump section to see how your individual pumps work.

 

I can't describe exactly how the throttle mechanism, stop mechanism and rack interact and work on your SR but as I said if its running well stop fretting over those marks. They are there to allow you to time and phase the individual pumps so if the marks are both in the same position relative to their pump bodies then the pumps are hopefully timed correctly  and also will be phased. Phasing is making sure the injection starts at the same point in the cycle on  both cylinders.

 

On our SLs we had a gauge that had to be inserted into the control mechanism to allow us to do the adjustment of then mark on the first pump and Steve 56 talked about using feeler gauges on the control lever which seem similar to my gauge. Steve also posted a chunk from the manual.

 

If your engine is different to the manual then you may have a fixed speed industrial engine that has been poorly converted to variable speed. Also we still can't see the whole of the control mechanisms (stop and speed control) in a single photo.

 

Manual PDF here but make sure you use the correct parts for the SR2

Edited by Tony Brooks
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There seems to be a lot of talking at cross purposes. Firstly the position of the line on the fuel pumps determines how much fuel the engine can use at full speed and has nothing to do with idle speed. To set the lines on the pump(g setting) you would use the correct size feeler  under the stop lever, loosen the small bolt on the back plate and rotate until line on the rack aligns with edge of pump. Therefore when the feeler is removed the line will disappear inside the pump, so what you have is correct.

Now the small spring you have on the rear pump is the idle spring and if you undo the lock nut you can turn the collar to adjust the tension which alters the idle speed. To adjust correctly you would totally slacken the idle screw on the speed control lever. You would then tension the idle spring to give a speed of approx 800 rpm and lock in this position. Then using the idle screw on the speed control lever increase the speed to around 850 rpm (recommended idle speed for this engine). That is about it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Steve56 said:

There seems to be a lot of talking at cross purposes. Firstly the position of the line on the fuel pumps determines how much fuel the engine can use at full speed and has nothing to do with idle speed. To set the lines on the pump(g setting) you would use the correct size feeler  under the stop lever, loosen the small bolt on the back plate and rotate until line on the rack aligns with edge of pump. Therefore when the feeler is removed the line will disappear inside the pump, so what you have is correct.

Now the small spring you have on the rear pump is the idle spring and if you undo the lock nut you can turn the collar to adjust the tension which alters the idle speed. To adjust correctly you would totally slacken the idle screw on the speed control lever. You would then tension the idle spring to give a speed of approx 800 rpm and lock in this position. Then using the idle screw on the speed control lever increase the speed to around 850 rpm (recommended idle speed for this engine). That is about it.

 

I think Bods is fixated on those marks because he does not understand what they are for.  In my view if he has not had the pumps out of the engine they will be correct so can be ignored. He does not seem to grasp that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

I think Bods is fixated on those marks because he does not understand what they are for.  In my view if he has not had the pumps out of the engine they will be correct so can be ignored. He does not seem to grasp that.

I think you are right . It does sound to me as if the marks are correct. I think they should just be left alone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Steve56 said:

I think you are right . It does sound to me as if the marks are correct. I think they should just be left alone.

I shall leave well alone. I am a great believer if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. I’ve just got the new leakoff pipes so I can now put it all back together and hit the button and see what happens. 

Thanks everyone for all your help. I inherited the boat and engine so just keen to learn how it all goes together. Sometimes though I wobble in favour of something quieter smoother and Japanese. 

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 22/03/2021 at 08:01, BODs SR2 said:

As requested. 

image2 - Copy (3).jpeg

image1 - Copy (3).jpeg

If your engine has the cover 6 over the speeder linkage remove it and adjust the idle speed by turning the nut, also at 6. It turns in notches and does alter the idle speed. Count the notches as you turn it so you can always return it to where it was. I'm almost sure it's slacken to slow the idle speed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

I think Bods is fixated on those marks because he does not understand what they are for.  In my view if he has not had the pumps out of the engine they will be correct so can be ignored. He does not seem to grasp that.

 

3 hours ago, Steve56 said:

I think you are right . It does sound to me as if the marks are correct. I think they should just be left alone.

 

32 minutes ago, bizzard said:

If your engine has the cover 6 over the speeder linkage remove it and adjust the idle speed by turning the nut, also at 6. It turns in notches and does alter the idle speed. Count the notches as you turn it so you can always return it to where it was. I'm almost sure it's slacken to slow the idle speed.

Success. Ticking away nicely. Starts almost instantly. No diesel or oil leaks. No benching fumes.  Revs nicely in gear. Thanks everyone. Can I leave it for a few years now?

Bod. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, BODs SR2 said:

 

 

Success. Ticking away nicely. Starts almost instantly. No diesel or oil leaks. No benching fumes.  Revs nicely in gear. Thanks everyone. Can I leave it for a few years now?

Bod. 

Its an air cooled Lister so apart from filling the sump with fuel yes, it will go on for years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.