Captain Faffer is in a Fury now :)

[Tony Brooks]

I will add idiot carbon plug leads gone high resistance, well much higher than normal. That can allow weedy sparks that won't ignite the feel. I sort of remember about 1K ohm per metre but check.

 

Cracked rotor/cap, but not if you have fat sparks at the plugs

[W+T]

1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

I will add idiot carbon plug leads gone high resistance, well much higher than normal. That can allow weedy sparks that won't ignite the feel. I sort of remember about 1K ohm per metre but check.

 

Cracked rotor/cap, but not if you have fat sparks at the plugs

Can you see the video  of it running ? just wondering. 

[Tony Brooks]

1 hour ago, W+T said:

all i can do is recheck the gaps for the points and plugs, cnat think why else at the minute why it wont even fire. unless anybody can give me an idea  

 

That is the bit I and I think Tracy replied to. I don't understand how it would not run, and then it would unless it is high resistance plug leads that altered when you manipulated them or perhaps originally the  way they were fitted did not accord for the Ford firing order.

 

I tend not to download videos just to see an engine running unless the accompanying words suggest something is amiss.

[W+T]

As engine is running i have got on rebuilding the other carburettors. And as i cant make an ultrasonic cleaner i bought one. Just the biggest i cold afford so it can fit the carb`s in it and other stuff aswell.
 

 

It does a good job but not as good as i expected. I tried the carburettor solution that came with it and also a white vinegar solution which i wont be dong again, the whole house stunk of vinegar for a day or so. Last solution i just used hot water and a good squirt of washing liquid.

Before
 

 

 

 

 

 

After a good blast in the cleaner.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was going to be lazy and fit it all back together now, why i ask myself after all this and for the engine still to look tatty. So i have removed all other bit, well the oil cooler and few bit and they will be cleaned up along with all coolant pipe work.

What has got me wondering who has been messing with these carb`s is that one had a bolt stuck in a hole, that should of been for adjustment and this aluminum gasket for the diaphragm.
 

 

Back in the day i had cars with twin SU carb`s on and for the life of me i couldnt tune them up to well. hope these are easier. I believe they are difficult but i have put them back together as they came apart and all screws have been screwed back in the same threads in.

So off shopping now for VP red paint and black 

This weekend i have added 200mm to the gantry height so it will be easier to move over the boat when it has lifted the boat off the trailer.

This is how it was, it had less than an inch to clear the bridge top.

 

 

 

So just extended the legs a bit. I mite add a brace along the bottom of the legs, but then its only lifting and not rolling with a heavy load on. Sounds dodgy but be reat  

 

Plenty of room now....i hope.
 

 

These little sods are what is few left of the deck fittings to be removed for rechroming.

These vents are fixed using machine screw tapped into the 8mm GRP superstructure and in well, well the very last screw will not but so ill be trying the set of damaged screw removers, never used them before so its time to see fi the work.
 

 

 

 

 

 

And to get them off is to cut out a section of the internal skin to get to the nuts. Not a bad thing as there under the gunnel and can be fixed back inplace.
 

 

I have said and will again,m the best tool of all the gear i have is the Multitools. Makes life so much easier. Hate to think about having to get in some places to do jobs without one.
 

 

 

 

So then i had to get the back panel off the galley top. Hey just a couple of taps in th way at one end.

Ye right. no way could i get to the nuts underneath to remove the taps.
So out come Garry the Grinder 

 

 

 

 

 

Things you have to do ha ha. Good job its being replaced.

So it looks a mess as always in this time of a project. i have kept all the panels to use as templates for new ones to be made. I am going white/grey colour scheme. Oh yes still bloody waiting on the canopy to be made, been 10 months now i reckon. Good job no rush although need it now as i want to sort the bulkhead out this year and its a big job, the biggest.

Hope to show the sexy looking engine next update, god i love a real engine with twin carbs  

C Faffer 

[Mad Harold]

Well done lad.

I think your posts should be essential reading for anyone thinking of taking on a project.

Your posts are a good dose of reality.

[W+T]

22 minutes ago, Mad Harold said:

Well done lad.

I think your posts should be essential reading for anyone thinking of taking on a project.

Your posts are a good dose of reality.

 

so many folk have asked me about project over the years and some say it cant be hard, cant take long etc etc. I talk to them about things that need to be taken into consideration and costs. So many end up either not getting one or the others get one and i see the boat for sale a few months to a year later. Some keep going for years after and when wee chat again they say how much work it is and costs build up quick.  And these are for small cruisers generally around 20- 30 foot. 

 

I do it for the love of faffing about and they joy to get boating again. This though may well be my last project a sits killing me ha ha

[Tracy D'arth]

1 minute ago, W+T said:

 

 

 

I do it for the love of faffing about and they joy to get boating again. This though may well be my last project a sits killing me ha ha

I bet you say that every time at some critical point in a project.  Well done so far, its all very interesting.

 

The engine not starting, were the plug leads in the wrong order in the cap cos someone has had the dissy out?

[W+T]

17 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

I bet you say that every time at some critical point in a project.  Well done so far, its all very interesting.

 

The engine not starting, were the plug leads in the wrong order in the cap cos someone has had the dissy out?

Al[points are critical ha ha, i am now onto trying to sort the canopy out as been messed about and let down for 10 months so i am going eslewhere and its costing twice as much now. It was to be done by an acquaintance.  

 

Today i have done some work on the trailer to get it ready as it needs a few new parts to be safe.. 

 

As said previously, i dont know, all i did was remove HT leads, double checked it all over and refitted them and then all great a sin video. I may well of fitted te HT leads in wrong order but it would of still fired a cylinder or two. 

 

All good though as seen in Vid. 

Some pics for those that dont do videos
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Today didnt go as well i hoped, or as thought it would of. This block was the better of the two i had out of the boat. I have a couple of good heads here so i decided to see how good/bad the block, and head is instead of jumping in and getting it all machined, no point if they dint need it.

I first wanted them in the build area i had planned for a while so moved them over on new stands to work on.

Lucky i got a couple of engine supports in the pile of spares with the other engine so just had to make the mounts. To find them for sale in like rocky horse doo dar, and when you do you dont want to pay it.
 

 

 

just 5mm plate i had lying around.
 

 

god dam i wish the boat yard was a level ground ha ha, not easy moving an engine crane and engines about over that lot.
 

 

this is why i hate throwing stuff out, had this 4x2 lying around for over ayear now.
 

 

all in place ready

 

 

All i need is the head fitting and bits to check the compression so chose the best head. Well from they look like.
 

 

The block isnt the best but will still show what i need to know
 

 

I actually guessed or knew what the outcome would be but at times i try to ignore it and need the proof to see i am right.

Which was that the 4th and 3rd are knackered and need a rebore. I have one of the cheap compression test kits which are good enough for what i need.
 

 

These are the readings, the ones in black are of the other good engine, so all in good tolerance of each other. The red ones are this block.

Top dry test, second wet test and third the difference. Not good
 

 

So atleast a block rebore and skim. Head i will see more but seems good as is at the minute.


Oh yes and also today i got a mould sorted to make helms, ill show ,more of that this weekend maybe if they come out ok.
 

 

[W+T]

As its not costly a si have the materials i got on with the transom. When i removed the transom plate there was a good few SS screws snapped off, so only way to fix that was to grind them back and epoxy fill them, aswell as the rest of the holes.

The transom is all good, so as few suggested an owner must of had the plate fitted to save more transom damage in the future.
 

 

 

 

So tapered out the hole and ground out the studs left behind.

Wet out the holes then used the usual Epoxy and 407 ( i think i forget now which filler )

 

 

 

 

 

Easy job really and chilling out job.
 

On the transom top gunnel where the nav light was i will be having access from the bathing deck i will be making so them holes can be filled aswell.
 

 

 

 

 

 

sorry as usual i loose a picture of it finished but you get the idea from the other, fill and fair in.
 

 

And more second time around. I am thinking an owner fitted the plate as couldnt be bothered to fettle the scratches so cover them up.
 

 

Ill finish them off tomorrow and fair back and see if more needs doing.

This thing is coming out now. I cant see the point in it really unless you have a lot of water down blow and need to drain the bilge before towing. , never had one before on any boat but a dinghy.
 

 

 

 

That will take some filling, thick transom this.
 

 

Why do the designers make things so hard to get at. This rail has fairly good access for all stanchion bolts but for one base where there just isnt any without removing the rear deck.

Before i remove it though i need to alter the wooden top as the corners stick out to far and will rub the canopy as you mite see here
 

 

 

 

 

So in red i can make a new section and let if follow the boat profile, or in blue make a new stanchion for the back rail to support the end and leave the corner rail open. Ill decide over time.
 

And to finish the day as tired i was sick of seeing the big gash in the side so as i had the sander out slapped on a 120g disc and went at it.

And after a few minutes its fine, just a bit of primer and then paint, it feathered in right good. So rest of the hull just needs a sand to prep for new paint. And the below water line is good aswell, give it a scrub and AF it.

It did go down to the GRP so a bit of high build primer will be reat.
 

 

 

 

no to bad a day really 

And today efforts in Faffers boat yard 

Decision is made i will be making a new rear rail from 22mm SS, going to get one of these benders, they are good for the money and after researching them thye do a good job

VEVOR Steel Pipe Tube Bender Manual Bending Machine 10/12/14/16/19/22/25mm 7Dies 278716893005 | eBay

I need to get that made asap really before the canopy is sized up as the canopy will be touching it as before.

Now today i finished another window for fitting next week and then cracked on removing the rear deck so i can get to the tank and last rail stanchion nuts.

Getting this deck out was a reat faff about. not looking forward to putting it back in, needs to go back in soon aswell for when they size up the canopy. just be easier i think for them, and safer.

I decided to cut the corners out as they did last time

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I had to drag the boat forward a few meters so i have more room at the back so as before winch post and block n tackle
 

 

Now for the tank. on doing this i see the timber crossmember is a little rotten in the middle so thats going to replaced, rest is good. the bearers unscrewed dead easy, infact no real problem today which made a change.
 

 

With out a gantry i would not be managing this on my own nowadays. It isnt as heavy as i thought aswell.
 

 

 

 

 

 

I have not measured the tank yet but it is supposed to be 60 gallon. looks about it. Just glad it is stainless steel though so no need to repalce that, just a clean up.

Left it at this stage for today. Next is to look at the bulkhead in readyness to make a new one. Instead of plywood i am thinking on a Carbon Fibre one with a weave but not yet chosen one, but i like the large weave type. This will be a foam sandwich with standard grp internal and just a carbon out skin over csm.
 

 

do like this
 

 

if not just usual plywood.

[W+T]

I went to work today felt sick, felt as rough as death warmed up infact, so went back to bed then got up at dinner and played out  ( honestly i was not well )


So i thought an easy job, so i pressure tested the fuel tank,

Found a of cut of 50mm bar to bung the end of the filler opening with the help of some radiator hose.

 

Then got my cheap tyre inflator, cut the tyre vavle adaptor off and connected that to the fuel off take. Bunged up the breather with a bit of water pipe and bar
 

 

And hey presto, lets go blow myself up as i cant measure as low as 5psi as it starts at that. so took a guess lol. Just put enough in so a little less that 5psi which will be enough for this.

1/4 filled with water so easier to see low down leaks
 

 

All fitted seem ok so now ill leave it for a few days and see if the tank gets an softer if you know what i mean, not in tension and any wet spots anywhere.

BTW, its not stainless steel, its Aluminum tank. wondered why it was so light ha ha

 

 

I dont know how folk do it, or dont do it.

I sold a GRP boat canopy to a chap, had it sent by courier, Tuffnells. The canopy is 170cm x 115 cm x 20 xm. so not small.

They have lost it , god knows how.

I bought a part rebuilt block for the next engine from Coastal Rides, last week. Buzzing as it WOULD of saved me rebuilding one i have.

I say `would` as they sent me the wrong engine. Ok some folk can make mistakes. I called them straightaway to tell them, and then had to wait two days for them to call me to say they cant find the engine block i bought.
WTF, they dont seem very professional at all.

So now i have took a gamble on a chap that has got one that was a good runner and he bought it for a few bits. Full engine for £180. so no big loss there if its as bad as the ones i have. That should be here next week.

Well today i got motivated, once i get going i am good and love it. Not like used to be when i was on it every waking spare hour, still getting there now.

Today i rebuilt another pair of carbs and started to clean and check a manifold. And another problem as the ultrasoinc cleaner is playing up and the seller still hasnt been to collect it to repair it. The month that goes by with no cock ups will be amazing.

just waiting for paint ti arrive.

 

Got myself a moisture ( love that word Moist  dont know why ) meter to see how damp the timber is and its not to bad.

This is the bottom of the worst area. above 20% which is to much. but 6inch up and better
 

I have been all around the bulkheads etc except for the main as thats coming out soon once the canopy is fitted. Cut all the areas out that have readings above 10%. These will be sealed with epoxy then new ply fitted inplace.

The rest is in good order so i decided nt to rip it all out. Why make more work than needed.

 

 

That bottom timber will dry out quicker now.
 

 

small patch needed
 

 

The heads is a bit rough so ripped it all out. well it was needed, no chance on keeping that in
 

 

 

The lower damp left area is 6mm ply, and the rest is 6mm veneered 12mm ply.
 

 

Looks better already
 

 

Reckon ill remove and patch up these non used stopcocks.
 

Oh yes, another disaster a week or so ago.

I like to research all new gear i buy. Now i want a Tubela pipe bender but costly at £1200 with a couple of dies so for now i got a cheapo chinses tat. All looked good on YT videos and reviews. Yes it did a great jb for the first maybe dozen bends.

Great hey, for £100 its good.
 

 

 

 

So as the canopy is being made ( at long last after a 10 month wait ) in a few weeks i needed to make the new rails for the stern. The original wooden ones have sharp edges and make hard waring on the canopy.

so i knocked these up
 

 

 

 

 

 

I managed to bend them to keep the original mount points to save drill more holes
 

 

Sorry to say though there scrappers . The bender as said lasted maybe a dozen bends. this was while i was making the bender better as the pipe clamp needed to be smoothed out a lot to prevent it leaves dents in the tube. So these rials have a bad crease around the corners due to the die and pivot waring out.

Well P`d off i was. I hope to be getting another sent to me soon. A UK seller but from shanghai, they tried to fob me off with a 45 day wait for delivery when i got this on three days....we will see.

I have a good bit more in tomorrow so more to come 

[Naughty Cal]

Any news on the build Faffer?

[W+T]

22 minutes ago, Naughty Cal said:

Any news on the build Faffer?

 

Hi Rach, hope your well. 

 

Afraid it was for sale. I havnt been good for a while and wasnt getting any better. That lead to loss of motivation sorry to say. 

 

I have had so many halfwits/morons and dreamers asking and wasting time its still here and not been touched.  Is that  a bad thing, i am not sure.

 

Over last month ort so i have been tat feeling to faff about with it again. Health has got a bit better but need surgery i think on finger/s and infact going  tomorrow to the hospital to see what they can/will do, bad tendons. Shoulders are getting better though.

 

I had the boat in for a new canopy aswell where i lost a good amount of money as i took it back with work done. 

 

At the minute its all covered up for winter so i am thinking on getting stated again in spring. There is stuff i can do now like carry on sorting the outdrives out and rebuilding the other engine. 

 

Its feeling good so i reckon it is straying. 

[W+T]

Got this for a read if interested, mite motivate me a bit

 

lets see, i have been faffing with the diesel heater and where to stick it. I was going to fit it in the engine bay at first, to get the inlets and outlets where i want them was a pain due to the main fuel tank and where to fit the fuel tank for it.
So in the end, and as it is wasted space i have fitted the heater unit under a locker in the main cabin.
 

 

Just a matter to cut out an access hatch in the base. All that area under that seat base was wasted. but for the far right has an small opening for the depth and speed transducers.
 

 

Still deciding on where to route the combustion lines, either behind the far panel you see with the single hole or trough what will be the new battery locker with the inlet for the heater ducting. .
 

 

I was lucky enough to find a bit of stainless steel in the shed to make a mount for the heater to mount to the underside of the seat locker.

Had to strip the unit down though as it is a combined heater unit that i had used for the shed.

 

You will see it is a 4 outlet jobby, i want a single out let at the minute so will be getting a new single outlet fitting.

 

 .


This where it will be fitting, good room for the pipe work, combustion outlet will be wrapped so temps will be take care of, as always do as i go. So i will sort that when i get to it.
 

 

Oh yes, as common sense goes my didnt kick in at first, like to make life hard i see now ha ha

I removed the table pedestal to gain easier access to te heater locker, about time, needed to see how wet the foam is under the GRP soul.
 

There was water in there where the post was in from the pedestal so i dried it out with a bit of sponge and i was expecting it to fill back up soon after. If water gets in it and spreads a lot then it can get there. After 7 days though no water has flowed back in. Which i can say i am happy about as i am not into removing all the soul to rip out all the foam etc etc etc.
 

just a matter to mark out the holes etc to fit the eater inplace and there we go.
 

 

Ah well, i drilled one hole out of line. be reat 

 

and there we go, to bend it as it is 3mm and not got a press brake yet lol, just do a few runs with a plasma cutting disc and bend it, then another run a few mm at a time untill it gets the angle needed.
 

 

 

 

in temp situ
 

 

 

 

Tucked up high and as safe to get the combustion pipes room.
 

 

Exciting times   

I have been messed about BIG time by a local so called respected canopy maker. After 11 months and being let down many times i decided to jack in waiting for him to do it. he was well priced but good, well you know.
It has cost me a bloody fortune towards the timewaster but i feel better with the new maker and saving money, paying less isnt going to get it done,
So Canvasman near Leeds. sounds very professional and the boat is all booked in ( drop off 1st September, THIS year  ) , i am taking it to them to be done at is saves me £700, and they are only an hour away.

Now main job now is to sort the trailer out. When i towed the bat back when i got it a pillock pulled out in front of me and i heard a large thump/bang and then the car shunted forward. Good job i am quick as applied more break and the Shoggy stopped it with ease, thank god.

Goes to show, maintain the trailers people as this happend.

I stripped the hitch after hours of spannering/banging/cutting. To find a all bolts had seized, handbrake handle snapped. And worse still te damper had snapped, so that is what made the bang wen i braked hard.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So tonight i have ordered new damper, boot, handbrake energy store as that is seized also, and got a secondhand handbrake at a bargain £25 instead of £110. somethings work out 

The jockey wheel was goosed, but i fixed that as the first thread on the worm gear was dodgy so real tight, just stripped it and got the Dremmel to clean the thread back and greased up and all good now. Another saving, which is much needed now after the canopy situation.

I have bits to do this weekend so ill be back i hope soon. Water tank to finish off, see about the new bulkhead asap. I would like to get that done before it goes away for a couple of months, but alteast when it comes home i can work under cover on the bulkhead and engine bay in time for winter. .

When i got the boat/trailer seller said the brakes had been rebuilt, which happy to say they do look like it.

Front axle studs are long on both side, rear axle one side just long enough, the other side way to short. ,

front axle front wheel
 

 

Rear axle rear wheel, about 10mm short so ordered a 50mm set.
 

 

left front, right rear
 

 

Same drums/hubs on front and rear axle aswell. studs look to never of been messed with either. maybe replaced hubs in the past, who knows.

Well all looks good and moving with T yanking on the cable anyway lol.
 

 

 

 

So glad all is good, dont come cheap these parts. and tyres also are dam good.
 

Just gave the drums and shoes a bit of a light rub down and clean so all good to go once parts fitted and set up properly  .


thats about it for today but for also making a new draw bar damper extension, as to tight to pay £30 for a bar with two holes in it lol

 

Good new to me anyway, i drilled two holes in the sole of the cabin to investigate how bad the foam is under it.

I know these boats are bad for soggy soles but when i checked over this boat when i was checking over it i jumped poked prodded all over it an dit felt good. i would not of bought it otherwise as its a big job to strip a boat out and redo the sole.

Just the bottom 10mm or so is damp, not wet/soggy


stearn where it would be more wet tahn bow

 

 

 .

dam cant find the dug out picture but you get what i mean.
 

 

So while there faffing about i fitted the new lid to the water tank. and scrapped the front cabin walls from the old foam lined foam backing that was left. so front cabin is sort of done ready for the cosmetics.

I wanted to use new screw holes for the tank lid so marked out for new ones and used butyl tape to seal it, ill fill it in a day or so while it settles in and test it again. I forgot about the level indicator i want to fit but ill do that another time now. It be reat as it will just be a little dust getting in the tank from cutting the hole.

And the osmosis, be reat 

 

 

 

 

Hopefully all sealed 
 

 

Very little to scrape back, took about 15 mins  We will be relining with four way stretch carpet. Just to the bottom of the windows though i think.

 

Found a stow away aswel tucked up in the bow lol


 

 

As i feel the front cabin is in a way sorted and all ready for cosmetics i want to sort the fuse box in the heads. I was going to move it

from here
 

 

to here around where the coat hooks are.
 

 

Near all the cables will reach aswell and there isnt much in the fuse box.

It is either move it or keep it these but fit better fuse boxs and buzz bars fitted. The porta loo mite just fit below it, i will try it out later and see.

I was going to remove the sea loo inlet/outlet, ill keep them just incase for the future, there not in the way.
 

sorry about the dam side on pics, not a clue whats happening there.

All in its been a good day, not much done but feel got somewhere.

[Naughty Cal]

A lot going on there buddy!

 

Hope it's good news about the tendons and something can be done for them.

[W+T]

1 hour ago, Naughty Cal said:

A lot going on there buddy!

 

Hope it's good news about the tendons and something can be done for them.

 

just a bit gong on lol. 

 

glad to say i have actually built my shed i have always wanted. got the lathe and mill and all the gubbins for it. i call it My Sanity haha 

 

i made a good amount of these and sold loads. 

 

 

 

and a stove as its bleedin cold in there lol

 

[W+T]

Have a spare hour so why not update this thing. 

 

A week or so ago i decided to get my arse into gear and remove the bulkhead. Probably the biggest job on the boat. 

 

Not to bad a job really, due to the rot haha

 

Removing the rear deck is doing my head in though. 

 

 

 

 

seat comes out easy but the blinkin deck is a pain. its a dam tight fit, harder than it looks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have decided to ave te battery locker under the cabin seat. can fit atleast three in there. plenty for our use.  

 

 

I got these props out incase the superstructure wobbled but, i think the shape of it helped, did not move at all. these props have come in many times on boat works. like three pairs of hands. 

 

 

 

Thats the new battery locker on the right.

 

 

 

And a as easy as writing this it came out. 

 

 

I quit like the open plan feel and if i was to want to ruin the boat i would keep it open lol. 

 

 

Will hopefully be fitting the new one in a week or two. So glad my old timber supplies from my Boat Works is good to me and still letting me ave play at same price. Also ave a load of woven matt and resin still. just hope the resin is still good wit its shelf life. Got some Styrene somewhere aswell. 

I am tempted still to so a carbon fibre outer skin on the bulkhead. A large Twill weave.

 

 So still at it but slow due to work now and fitting a van out for weekends away a snot getting away much since i sold last boat. 

[BilgePump]

15 hours ago, W+T said:

Have a spare hour so why not update this thing. 

 

A week or so ago i decided to get my arse into gear and remove the bulkhead. Probably the biggest job on the boat. 

 

Not to bad a job really, due to the rot haha

 

Removing the rear deck is doing my head in though. 

Cheers for the update Wayne.

 

From a selfish point of view I'm really glad you didn't end up selling the boat. Always enjoy reading your renovation reports. Educational for the stuff I don't know much about and inspiration for the things I should be capable of doing. Far bigger than any of my little boats I've done up so appreciate the work, money and determination that goes into one of these projects.

[W+T]

Dont know wat all the fuss was about. Ah there wasnt any lol.

As last seen bulkhead was removed. Now i have fitted a new one  I was happy to start with on Friday i picked up the Marine ply, 18mm two full sets at £157, bargain. That wood yard is best in Bolton. If not Manchester.

I havnt been faffing with boats for a couple years now due this and that but i never throw away, which is good as all the other materials i had int shed. Poly/Epoxy resin, woven, CSM and resins, and all inbetween so saved a fortune here. One thing i am near out of you will guess later.

OK this H is doing me head in and sick of editing the post so please burrr with as i keep dropping H`s.


I know it was a good price and need a 2.5m x 2m area covered i made as much of this ply as possible.
 

Had to order some Puraflex 40, my choice of adhesive as its excellent and same ingredients as Sika 291i. Just Toolstation had to get it delivered as out of stock, which it didnt turn up so i bought more from a TS further away and went to collect it. hey ho an hour wasted already haha.

Now this is my trick of the trade for templating anything needed to be ...well templated

Basting tape. real good double sided tape used in sewing mainly. And no so new acetone. down to my last 200ml i reckon. if tat.
 

just stick the tape all around the edge to be templated
 

Where in some you will have your murder scene. Dont worry i am still alive, T still loves me.....tab god 

 

And then i marked out the cutting edge wit perm marker.
 

trim the polythene but leave a few inch/75mm

then you can place it over sheet and get it were you want before trimming back, just so you know your sheet is big enough.
 

trim back to line, mark around wit marker and cut ply. CUT tough inside the marker line on ply as tat is the cut line needed.
 

it needed a wee fettle to get fitted and like a idiot i am i cut to much off one edge, but easy sorted. You dont need to see that bit lol.
 

 

ok the bit i cut to much out to fit snug

 

The gap the the Portside is were the sheet maxes out on width. no problem as will make a new bit to fill tat.

Rest is the same,
 

I was wanting to add Spead Toe Carbon Fibre but i couldnt find any wide enough and no patience.
So now i used poly resin with added styrene for three coats, first being 5% last being 2%. then lay up of one lam of 350grm CSM.
 

you can see in that pic i chamfered the edges in a few places to give a good area for connecting the boards together.

I fixed the new bulkead in with Puraflex40 along the top and side down to the gunnel with 20mmx8mm SS screws. .

Here you see the camfer i did where needed. to be filled wit CSM and woven. then a topping off wit filler.
 

 

So set to work tabbing in the bottom and sides upto gunnel.
 

Not that you can see , i did five layers of a mix of CSN and woven. good and strong.
One thing though i messed up wit rushing was that i wanted the joints to be epoxy and filler but as i used poly resin/CSM the flowcoat will not stick. so i used Poly resin a through. still do the job though.

 

 

 

 

I cant remember now which filler this is but i usually use it wit epoxy but as said i am only using Poly resin i tried it and works fine to fair in the joint. Not tat it needs it as it will not be seen ans its below deck. But still 
 

it will do, its not my best as used t be OCD, now i just want it done.
 

Last bit for the last two days is Flowcoating it. I found about 2l int she and as its old i thought i should test it first. And to my joy it is fine  Just gave it a good mix

 

I gave it a single thick coat then when is was greening off i used the rest.

I will polish it back next week wen fully set in.
It looks out of place now wit te boat. now ill need to polis te boat back up to match 

 

I have two more windows to refurb whic i will as and wen as no rush so mainly ill be getting te fuel tank back in and rear deck. which i hope leads the deciding on the starter battery calorifier homes.

Captain Faffer singing out as shattered now and need a cider 

[TheBiscuits]

55 minutes ago, W+T said:

Captain Faffer singing out as shattered now and need a cider 

 

You should be happy enough if you've been sniffing glue all day! 😀

 

Keep 'em coming Wayne, I can't do that standard when I've not been sniffing solvents ....

[W+T]

21 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:

 

You should be happy enough if you've been sniffing glue all day! 😀

 

Keep 'em coming Wayne, I can't do that standard when I've not been sniffing solvents ....

 

 

 I`m happy kida. just me being piccy. and i miss the resin snifter, but not the bleedin itchy part of it haha

[W+T]

For those of you following, betetr let you know its no longer going to be done this one. 

 

Reason i got an offer i couldnt say no to due to crazy price. being not much more tan a new canopy for this boat. and this canopy is only 10 month old. 

 

Same boat but a MK1 and all ready to go. same engines but AQ115 not the AQ130, but i will keep them and may fit them at a later date as they are rebuit. along with the drives as the new boat has the smaller AQ drives.

 

 

so all off boating again soon, will be collecting this in four weeks, and cant bloody wait  

 

 

[Mad Harold]

A very pretty boat. 😝

[TheBiscuits]

4 minutes ago, W+T said:

all off boating again soon, will be collecting this in four weeks, and cant bloody wait

 

I'll give you five weeks before you start fettling it ... A week up and down the Lanky and you'll have it back at your workshop!

[Tracy D'arth]

Very pretty boat. Are you going to just use this one and enjoy it? What are you going to do with the remains of the last one?  

There must be a limit as to how many GRP boats you can bury in your garden.

[BilgePump]

Ah, that explains why I saw your first one back up for sale recently. Glad to know that it's being sold to be replaced by the new one. The Furies have really elegant lines. Have fun with it, but like was noted above I bet you find something you can't resist fettling within the first few weeks!