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16 hours ago, peter m said:

Hi all, i have a Dawncraft27ft canal/river cruiser, and would like to replace or refurbish the windows, any one help please

What are you doing with them?

Replacing the glass? re-sealing the glass to the frame?re-sealing the frame to the boat?

More info needed for anyone to offer advice.

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Seals Direct stock all types of rubber window seals.  Frames will need to come out obviously to do the job.They will probably be held in with screws and nuts being a fibreglass boat.It's a two person job,one to hold a spanner on the inside while another unscrews from the outside,not like when I did mine,not a soul around,so I was in and out like a jack in the box taping a molegrip to the inside and then unscrewing outside.

Do one window at a time and gaffer tape plastic sheet over the opening,because you will have to order the seals and it is bound to rain when you take the window out.

The frame will most likely be held together with with metal corner pieces with tiny screws about as big as a sparrow's willie,which will be corroded and need drilling out.They will need to be replaced with small pieces of ally and drilled for self tappers unless you can re thread the holes.The self tappers will need the ends snipping or grinding off so that they don't protrude out of the ally piece,or on tightening the frame they will crack the glass. A point worth mentioning is to ensure the new seal is not blocking any drain holes or slots in the window frame.It may be necessary to cut away any bit of the seal that is covering a drain.

The frame to the cabin should be sealed with non setting mastic or mastic tape.NOT SILICONE I used Wickes gutter mastic,messy,but cleans up easily with white spirit.

I re sealed four windows on my Norman cruiser and to be honest found it a sod of a job.But,having a dry cabin was worth it.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 04/03/2021 at 22:05, Mad Harold said:

Seals Direct stock all types of rubber window seals.  Frames will need to come out obviously to do the job.They will probably be held in with screws and nuts being a fibreglass boat.It's a two person job,one to hold a spanner on the inside while another unscrews from the outside,not like when I did mine,not a soul around,so I was in and out like a jack in the box taping a molegrip to the inside and then unscrewing outside.

Do one window at a time and gaffer tape plastic sheet over the opening,because you will have to order the seals and it is bound to rain when you take the window out.

The frame will most likely be held together with with metal corner pieces with tiny screws about as big as a sparrow's willie,which will be corroded and need drilling out.They will need to be replaced with small pieces of ally and drilled for self tappers unless you can re thread the holes.The self tappers will need the ends snipping or grinding off so that they don't protrude out of the ally piece,or on tightening the frame they will crack the glass. A point worth mentioning is to ensure the new seal is not blocking any drain holes or slots in the window frame.It may be necessary to cut away any bit of the seal that is covering a drain.

The frame to the cabin should be sealed with non setting mastic or mastic tape.NOT SILICONE I used Wickes gutter mastic,messy,but cleans up easily with white spirit.

I re sealed four windows on my Norman cruiser and to be honest found it a sod of a job.But,having a dry cabin was worth it.

 

You can buy butyl rubber strip from Midland Chandlers Butyl Rubber Strip 19mm x 2.5mm Grey 19m Roll | Midland Chandlers 

or use Plumbers Mait

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1 hour ago, Tonka said:

 

You can buy butyl rubber strip from Midland Chandlers Butyl Rubber Strip 19mm x 2.5mm Grey 19m Roll | Midland Chandlers 

or use Plumbers Mait

I think the Dawncraft has sliding windows so will need felt seals designed specifically for sliding windows.

Rubber strip or chanel seals are for fixed widows.

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19 minutes ago, Mad Harold said:

I think the Dawncraft has sliding windows so will need felt seals designed specifically for sliding windows.

Rubber strip or chanel seals are for fixed widows.

I thought he was taking the windows out complete with frames so he will need to reseal between the frames and cabin. So what I proposed was a less messier way then using the gutter sealant that you proposed

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7 minutes ago, peter m said:

Thanks lads, iv'e noticed several places where the gelcoat is cracked and needs replacing but the boat has been painted, any thoughts please

Had hairline cracks and spider cracks on my cabin roof.If the gelcoat is a bit proud,around the crack,sand it flush and fill the crack with Capt.Tolleys creeping crack cure or fibreglass resin.When it goes off,sand and paint.

If a big or deep crack,then use gel coat filler.Some brands set like concrete and need quite a lot of sanding.

I have successfuly used Davids.

To actually replace gelcoat is really a job for a specialist.

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1 hour ago, peter m said:

so it looks like i'll have to paint the boat again afterwards then!

Yes,where you've filled the cracks.

I am assuming you have isolated cracks in your cabin roof.

The more widespread the cracks,then you will have more work to do.

A picture of the affected area will

help.

Again I am assuming you are refering to your cabin roof.Cracks here on older boats are quite common caused by expansion and contraction and UV from the sun and also being walked on.

Fairly rare on the hull,  scratches and gouges here caused by mooring and locking are repaired with gel coat filler.

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Yes H it was renovated in 2008 ,the cabin is really good not it must have been painted to his the cracks and spidering around cabin roof , windows etc, sorry haven't got any photos but there is nothing really serious , just needs a lot of TLC on the exterior through neglect really

Sorry meant must have been painted to hide the cracks and spidering

Sorry meant it must have been painted to hide the cracks and spidering

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4 minutes ago, Tonka said:

Once you put paint on a fibreglass boat you have a job for life.

True,but most old grp boats will have been painted,(certainly the ones in my price bracket)

The OP has said that his boat has been painted anyway.

Occasionally an older grp boat comes up for sale stating "original gelcoat".

18 minutes ago, peter m said:

Yes H it was renovated in 2008 ,the cabin is really good not it must have been painted to his the cracks and spidering around cabin roof , windows etc, sorry haven't got any photos but there is nothing really serious , just needs a lot of TLC on the exterior through neglect really

Sorry meant must have been painted to hide the cracks and spidering

Sorry meant it must have been painted to hide the cracks and spidering

Trouble is,paint isn't thick enough to hide hairline and spider cracks.

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40 minutes ago, peter m said:

Thanks again lads, prime and gloss then, any recommendations for hard-wearing

long lasting finish ?

Unfortunatly there will be as many opinions on what paint to use as there are boat owners.If you look on the web there are many paints advertised as suitable for fibreglass all extolling their durability and finish.

For what it's worth,I used oil based Dulux Weathershield gloss on my present boat and the one before and was very pleased with the finish.

Only used this because there is  a Dulux Decorator Centre very close to my mooring and they stock the full range of Dulux paints.

It's too early in the year to paint yet,in temperatures below 10C the paint will take forever to dry.

Leave it untill Summer and you will be picking midges off your nice shiny paint.

 

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