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Water pump always running (pressure switch or leak?!) Pressure switch replacement.


James H

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Hey Everyone,

 

I know this is probably a common fault and I have read through similar posts but I still need some help as I'm a complete newbie to this.

 

If anyone could break it down simply for me I'd super appreciate it.

 

So my water pump now runs continuously, so from what I've read it's a leak or pressure switch failure.

 

1. As I understand it you disconnect the outlet from the pump and turn on the tap, then if the pump stops when you turn off the tap that suggests its a leak! If the pump continues running its the pressure switch! Correct?! Makes sense but maybe there's more to it. 

 

2. I am leaning towards it being the pressure switch as I don't have a serious amount of water in the hull (no more than usual) and no wet patches around connections like the washing machine, boiler, taps etc. Also a few people have said on this forum that its a common fault for the pressure switch to go as they only design them for leisure use and not the heavy use livaboards put them through. So it has been advised to get a more reliable 'square D' pressure switch and fit that.

 

3. Where is the pressure switch? This may sound like an obvious question but I'm not sure as I am fairly new to this so thought I'd ask. There's a round device separate to the water pump thats between the water pump and the shut off valve on the inlet? Could this be it? Or is the pressure switch usually built into the pump? 

I have a Jabsco Par Max 2.9 water pump if anyone is familiar with these?! 

 

Thanks for any advice, its all very much appreciated.

 

James.

20210301_131011.jpg

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12 minutes ago, James H said:

1. As I understand it you disconnect the outlet from the pump and turn on the tap, then if the pump stops when you turn off the tap that suggests its a leak! If the pump continues running its the pressure switch! Correct?! Makes sense but maybe there's more to it. 

No. You want to blank the outlet from the pump as close to the pump as you can get. Then, the pump should stop when the pressure rises to the set level. This will take a bit of plumbing.

 

 

12 minutes ago, James H said:

Where is the pressure switch? This may sound like an obvious question but I'm not sure as I am fairly new to this so thought I'd ask. There's a round device separate to the water pump thats between the water pump and the shut off valve on the inlet?

The pressure switch is built in to the pump. The round device on the intake side of the pump is probably a strainer to stop grit, sticklebacks and anything else untoward getting sucked in to the pump. If you do find that the pressure switch is knackered, but the pump is otherwise OK, then a separate pressure switch can be wired in to operate the pump. Square D seems to be the boaters favourite.

 

Do you have a calorifier? Have you checked the outlet from the pressure relief valve? If this has been piped overboard, then a leaking PRV can give the symptoms you describe, with no extra water in the bilge. A common fault.

 

Jen

 

 

Edited by Jen-in-Wellies
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Hi Jen, 

 

Thanks for clearing that up for me. I don't have a calorifier, we just have a water heater instead. It could be a leak, but I think the leak would be pretty substantial if the pump is running all the time. Obviously we switch the water pump off on the fuse board, but it has been left on for a while by accident, and so if it was a leak surely it would be alot of water in the inspection hatch! 

The pump is old I think so probably the pressure switch!

 

Is it easy enough to wire a square D pressure switch onto a Parmax 2.9, like would I need a different fuse etc or as I'm not very experienced with electronics maybe its best to just go for the same part again (pressure switch for the pump i have)!!! 

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44 minutes ago, James H said:

Hi Jen, 

 

Thanks for clearing that up for me. I don't have a calorifier, we just have a water heater instead. It could be a leak, but I think the leak would be pretty substantial if the pump is running all the time. Obviously we switch the water pump off on the fuse board, but it has been left on for a while by accident, and so if it was a leak surely it would be alot of water in the inspection hatch! 

The pump is old I think so probably the pressure switch!

 

Is it easy enough to wire a square D pressure switch onto a Parmax 2.9, like would I need a different fuse etc or as I'm not very experienced with electronics maybe its best to just go for the same part again (pressure switch for the pump i have)!!! 

 

Your pressure switch is under the small blue cover at the bottom of the pump but I can't see any wires in that area so wonder if someone has bypassed the switch and few the motor direct. That would allow the pump to run all the time.

 

Better photos required of all the pump.

 

And replace it every few years. No, a Square D is a far superior switch that seem to last forever and allows the independent adjustment of the cut in and cut out pressure.

 

You will need to T the switch into the outlet side of the pump. You then connect the live feed to one side of the switch and the feed into the motor to the other. I can probably say more when I can see the wiring around the pump.

 

 

 

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Thanks for that, I found a replacement pump of same male and model left by the previous owners in a box. I forgot about it but they said its a new replacement pump. 

Anyways I've fitted it, but the problem remains of the pump still running, it doesn't run as much but it must suggest a leak somewhere right?! 

Also it constantly drips where I have plumbed it into the pump, and I'm not sure how to stop it, as the jubilee clip is as tight as it can go and I've clipped it in which is it was previously attached! Any ideas of what else to do to stop the dripping?! I've circled where its dripping from in the pic. 

 

Really appreciate the help, thanks. 

20210301_173201.jpg

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The original ran "continuously", This one doesn't run as much, please explain what is as much.

The plumbing is a bit of nasty bodge job, you will have to persevere fitting the pipe and the worm drive clip, you may need a new piece of pipe.

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With this new pump I've fitted when you turn the tap off the pump still runs at about half capacity (judging from the sound) as with the previous pump when you turned the tap off it sounded like it ran at fall capacity still! 

 

Either and airlock somewhere or a leak I think but I'm not sure! 

 

The flexi hose seems in good condition and the it doesn't seem to be dripping from the hose connecting to the pump but from directly under the side blue clip under the pump circled in picture. But once you have closed the clip I cant see what else can be done to make a tighter connection to prevent dripping! 

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks.

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It seems to be leaking quite abit from the side clip of the pump when I turn the pump at the switch but without the taps running. Maybe once I can fix this leak it won't continously run anymore! But can see how to fix it at the mo! 

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Pull the slide clip back and the pipe out of the pump. Remove the push in bit from the pipe.  Check the rubber o-ring on the push in fitting is OK.  Lubricate lightly with silicone grease.  Push it back in fully and slide the clip back till it clicks.  Then reconnect the pipe and tighten the worm drive clip.

 

If it still leaks it is either the wrong push in piece or something is damaged in the pump.

N

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The hose adaptor is held by the clip against a rubber o ring which could be dirty of damaged.

 

If the pump is running slowly it must be pumping water to somewhere or the pump has faulty  valves.  Is the  "new" pump really new?

 

Daft question, there is water in the tank?  If you can plug the pump outlet, does the pump stop?

#

 

Is there a mixer tap or shower mixer valve?  Are you sure that there is not a safety pressure release valve somewhere dumping water overboard or into the bilge?

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Thanks for all these questions ill work my way through them.

 

So I've looked at the 'new' pump and actually don't think it is new as it has dust collected around the top that looks as though its been fitted at somepoint for a decent period of time. 

 

I'll try plugging outlet and see if the pump still runs to test the pressure sensor. But if its new this should work! 

The rubber seal seems ok!

 

If its an old pump do you think it could be something to do with the pump as to why its leaking out of the side clip of pump outlet? Or can it only be the rubber seal?

 

Many thanks.

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Thanks for all the advice, I've fixed it with a new pump now. But I think it was just the washer on the outlet side that was worn and causing a leak which was the problem all along. So I have kept the old pump for now and I may get round to testing that theory. 

 

Cheers. 

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  • 1 year later...

Bumping this post as it probably has some valuable info.

I don't know what pump I have, except it's not easy to access (what's new).

So, my pump has started to start and stop immediately, it's doing this every minute.

I've not been doing anything that might cause this, as far as I know!

Except that I may have touched the valve on the accumulator under the sink?

What should I do?

PS I used to hear it running occasionally, infrequently, which I had assumed was a minor drip due to sink taps not being tight enough 

Edited by LadyG
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1 hour ago, LadyG said:

Bumping this post as it probably has some valuable info.

I don't know what pump I have, except it's not easy to access (what's new).

So, my pump has started to start and stop immediately, it's doing this every minute.

I've not been doing anything that might cause this, as far as I know!

Except that I may have touched the valve on the accumulator under the sink?

What should I do?

PS I used to hear it running occasionally, infrequently, which I had assumed was a minor drip due to sink taps not being tight enough 

Hopefully its a faulty valve in the pump leaking back.

Bu you could have a leak and it is filling your bilge under the floor.

Your accumulator is needing pumping up or replacing.

Why did you touch the Shrader valve on the accumulator?

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1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Hopefully its a faulty valve in the pump leaking back.

Bu you could have a leak and it is filling your bilge under the floor.

Your accumulator is needing pumping up or replacing.

Why did you touch the Shrader valve on the accumulator?

I was storing a few bottles in the cupboard, might have pushed one against the nozzle.

So do I have to buy a bicycle pump?

The occasional running which I described might actually pump water 

But this stop start is not the same and may not be actually pumping water 

Not sure how the accumulator works, assuming it's related to pressure, but how does it connect to water, it's a long way from pump and is higher 

Edited by LadyG
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I doubt you've let air out of the Schrader valve, you would need to poke the centre pin of it with a matchstick to do that as the pin is-should be below the ouyer threaded part. As TB says if you get a bike pump make sure it has a connector for Schrader type valves, same as cars.

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20 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

That valve should have a valve cap on it to stop you doing that sort of thing. If you have let it down then a pressure gauge and cycle pump with the correct adaptor.

No need of a pressure gauge. How to do this has been posted many times in previous threads .   

 

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27 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

That valve should have a valve cap on it to stop you doing that sort of thing. If you have let it down then a pressure gauge and cycle pump with the correct adaptor.

You're correct, so I can't have done anything to it, presumably 

 

5 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

No need of a pressure gauge. How to do this has been posted many times in previous threads .   

 

So, is this the symptom if pressure has dropped? Start, stop?

Edited by LadyG
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If you need one I could mail you a valve cap as I still have hundreds left from my garage trade. Because of it's tremendous value I'd have to send it either by security express or at least Royal mail tracked registerd envelope.

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1 hour ago, bizzard said:

If you need one I could mail you a valve cap as I still have hundreds left from my garage trade. Because of it's tremendous value I'd have to send it either by security express or at least Royal mail tracked registerd envelope.

Its ok I've got some on my bike, unfortunately the bike pump has rusted up, no longer functioning.

Sorry to be thick, but what should I do to stop the start stop?

Edited by LadyG
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I've not had an answer to my query, ie what to do with this start stop pump.

I read a few Threads and they all talk about cycling. I don't know what this is.

Why is the thing suddenly start stopping every minute.

Should I get a new pump , it's twenty years old, probably 

I will post a photo later.

I have a new spare but no idea if it would be any good,  I'd be inclined to go for a direct replacement.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by LadyG
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15 minutes ago, Lady C said:

I think you should try to re-pressurise the accumulator first.  

 

I agree in that the very fast cut out suggest no accumulator pressure, but that does not answer why the very frequent cut ins. Even without an accumulator that suggests a leak, be it PRV, and actual leak, dripping tap, or back leakage through the pump valves. Personally I think a faulty switch is less likely than a leak because they are usually either reluctant to turn on or reluctant to turn off.

 

If Lady G is absolutely sure there are no external leaks and knows the accumulator has pressure then all it leaves is back leakage through the pump valves or a faulty pressure switch so that would indicate a new pump or stripping the existing one to clean the valves.

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