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Lister sr2


Charming

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Hello I'm after a high amp alternator for my lister sr2 as I'm upgrading to lithium this year can anyone recommend one? I'm also after the vent ducting that channels the hot air out the side of the boat if anyone else knows where I can purchase would be amazing thanks for any help..  ???

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Unless you can increase the speed of the alternator you will gain very little with a higher output one. The problem is that the SR2 drives off the camshaft at half engine speed which is just too slow to generate a decent amount of electricity.

A system of belts and pulley to up the revs is required.

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3 minutes ago, Charming said:

Hello I'm after a high amp alternator for my lister sr2 as I'm upgrading to lithium this year can anyone recommend one? I'm also after the vent ducting that channels the hot air out the side of the boat if anyone else knows where I can purchase would be amazing thanks for any help..  ???

Hello. Do you have the large diameter alternator drive pulley on the camshaft? 10'',-12'' otherwise no alternator will be driven fast enough if you have the standard 7'' one. Even with the large diameter pulley's alternators are not really driven fast enough for full output.

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7 minutes ago, Charming said:

Hello I'm after a high amp alternator for my lister sr2 as I'm upgrading to lithium this year can anyone recommend one? I'm also after the vent ducting that channels the hot air out the side of the boat if anyone else knows where I can purchase would be amazing thanks for any help..  ???

 

Simply don't do it unless you change the engine or indulge in some engineering involving shafts and pulleys to step the speed up from half engine speed at the pulley on the CAMshaft to something faster. If you try to drive a high output alternator at high output and at low revs it may well overheat and eventually fail. With lithiums it may also put such a load on the engine it won't rev up, you need a bit of oomph HP wise to drive a high output alternator at high output.

 

Sorry to put a dampener on your ideas but I don't think this one will give you what you think it will.

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As far as the hot air outlet ducting is concerned. Does the engine have the air cooling tin plating surrounding it with the rectangular outlet on the port side and an opening in the hull or cabin side to match ? If to it's easy to make a box section to connect them with aluminium sheet, tin snips and pop rivets.

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Or if you are out of ally sheet, tin snips etc, many folks have used a rectangular canvas tube between the engine shroud and the air outlet.

 

Another solution is to use 150 diameter spiral wound  ducting between shroud and outlet.  The SR needs one tube per cylinder.

N

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2 hours ago, BEngo said:

Or if you are out of ally sheet, tin snips etc, many folks have used a rectangular canvas tube between the engine shroud and the air outlet.

 

Another solution is to use 150 diameter spiral wound  ducting between shroud and outlet.  The SR needs one tube per cylinder.

N

I've just got one tube on the outlet and it seems to be efficient enough. I had originally made a tin box affair but it was a pain getting it off to get at the engine. I did wonder if the single ducting was enough but was told by a couple of engineers that it was fine.

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5 hours ago, bizzard said:

As far as the hot air outlet ducting is concerned. Does the engine have the air cooling tin plating surrounding it with the rectangular outlet on the port side and an opening in the hull or cabin side to match ? If to it's easy to make a box section to connect them with aluminium sheet, tin snips and pop rivets.

And elastoplast.

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The old way of doing this was to use the great big pulley off the back of the drum of a washing machine, connecting to the camshaft took ingenuity and a bloke with a lathe (I have one) Not sure if a single belt would work though, it might not handle the load.

 

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21 minutes ago, Bee said:

The old way of doing this was to use the great big pulley off the back of the drum of a washing machine, connecting to the camshaft took ingenuity and a bloke with a lathe (I have one) Not sure if a single belt would work though, it might not handle the load.

 

 

It almost certainly won't work on  single V belt. Well it will work but not for long, plenty of belts needed. I would suggest 90Amps maximum on a single V belt.

 

However, it's the lithium batteries pulling maximum output that I have concerns with if the OP manages to sort the alternator drive out.

 

 

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Use a modern washing machine pulley and it will be a multi-rib belt, so you need to make (have made)  a multi-rib alternator pulley with matching grooves.  Then you need to check there is enough belt  wrap to transmit the power to the alternator.

You also need to keep the alternator cool whilst it is at full chat.  High speed helps 'cos the standard fan is not a very effective design.

N

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2 hours ago, BEngo said:

Use a modern washing machine pulley and it will be a multi-rib belt, so you need to make (have made)  a multi-rib alternator pulley with matching grooves.  Then you need to check there is enough belt  wrap to transmit the power to the alternator.

You also need to keep the alternator cool whilst it is at full chat.  High speed helps 'cos the standard fan is not a very effective design.

N

Out of my depth here - but this firm

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Belts-Multi-Ribbed-Poly-V-Belts/c4601_4791/index.html?page=1

Have several styles of PolyV belts which I used on my Beta Marine engine. It's possible that there might reven be a standard for washing machines...

That might save expense in machininh two pulleys.

T'is only a suggestion should the project get that far...

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90A x 13.5V x 2 ,(to allow for effiency losses), only amounts to around 3HP, hardly likely to bother a SR2 much or am I missing something?

 

Getting the alternator up to its designed speed in order to get the required output is quite another matter. The engineering would seem to boil down to a countershaft or a step-up gearbox. Both would need careful engineering for reliability and there are probably space and access considerations. Something along the lines of the DAF "Variomatic" transmission would be nice . . .

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Man of Kent: An extra 2hp at idle is significant to many engines. On an SR2 it is almost 20% of what you get bracket open.

 

Old Goat:

There  are 4 common  standard poly V belt sizes. They are identified by letters: J,K,L,M.  K is, iirc, the automotive "industry standard",   and thus is what a  modern vehicle alternator pulley would probably come with.    'J' is what I would expect to find in a dhobymatic. It is easier to adapt the big washing machine pulley to fit the engine and make a new alternator pulley, than to do it   viccy verky.

 

N

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12 minutes ago, BEngo said:

Man of Kent: An extra 2hp at idle is significant to many engines. On an SR2 it is almost 20% of what you get bracket open.

 

Old Goat:

There  are 4 common  standard poly V belt sizes. They are identified by letters: J,K,L,M.  K is, iirc, the automotive "industry standard",   and thus is what a  modern vehicle alternator pulley would probably come with.    'J' is what I would expect to find in a dhobymatic. It is easier to adapt the big washing machine pulley to fit the engine and make a new alternator pulley, than to do it   viccy verky..

N

Forgot what to say! I'm on a bad day .

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54 minutes ago, Man 'o Kent said:

90A x 13.5V x 2 ,(to allow for effiency losses), only amounts to around 3HP, hardly likely to bother a SR2 much or am I missing something?

 

Getting the alternator up to its designed speed in order to get the required output is quite another matter. The engineering would seem to boil down to a countershaft or a step-up gearbox. Both would need careful engineering for reliability and there are probably space and access considerations. Something along the lines of the DAF "Variomatic" transmission would be nice . . .

 

 

I think that you are missing the fact that the HP of any engine will be at a high (for that engine) speed, not idle or just above. In any case the OP asked about high output alternators and 90 amps is not much more than the 75 amps a modern A127 will produce. The HP will also be measured at full "throttle" and the speed controlled by a varying load.

 

Just looked at the Lister manual and the lowest speed they  give a HP for is 1000 rpm, not the 750 rpm quoted for some other engines.

 

Lithiums will take all the output the alternator can produce and with flattish  LAs on traditional engines it is known large alternators can stall the engine as they energise or refuse to rev up. Lithiums will take maximum output for hours, not just the first half hour. The OP may well need to modify the alternator so he can control its output.

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I admit to being more familiar with National and Russell Newbery engines which do have speed govenors. Thus when the engine "sees" a load it adjusts the fuel supply to maitain the pre-set RPM. 

It is also a long time since I had a sniff around Lister engines and then mostly in a R&D  environment. My mistake was assuming a marine engine would have speed control.

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22 minutes ago, Man 'o Kent said:

I admit to being more familiar with National and Russell Newbery engines which do have speed govenors. Thus when the engine "sees" a load it adjusts the fuel supply to maitain the pre-set RPM. 

It is also a long time since I had a sniff around Lister engines and then mostly in a R&D  environment. My mistake was assuming a marine engine would have speed control.

 

It will and in the case of the SR2 similar to the ones you are familiar with but if the alternator is demanding more power than the engine can provide at low speed the engine will stall or refuse to rev up. Much like the overloading when you fit too larger prop.

 

It is something the OP needs to factor into his deliberations and it may not happen but he needs to be aware of the possibility.

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