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Clamping Weed hatch


John Lewis

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3 hours ago, John Lewis said:

Just wondering does anyone know if clamping a weed hatch shut with regular G clamps is ok?

 

for access later I could unscrew them, I have a piece of rubber gasket in between.

 

cheers

As a temporary measure they would be better than nothing. The main problem, as I see it, is the size of the lip you are clamping onto, unless it's larger than average you risk the clamps vibrating off.

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7 hours ago, John Lewis said:

Just wondering does anyone know if clamping a weed hatch shut with regular G clamps is ok?

 

for access later I could unscrew them, I have a piece of rubber gasket in between.

 

cheers

Why have you arrived at this point, has the original locking mechanism broken or is it a new set up? This is one part of the boat that will not be improved by reinvention. 

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I think much depends upon the weed hatch design. I am sure the lip on JennyB's weed hatch trunk would have been large enough to use G clamps plus wood if required, but I would only see that as an emergency measure.

 

I note we have not been told why  the OP feels they need to do this. As BMS suggest the mechanism may be broken or I wonder if its one of the Trads with the weed hatch down a trunk and the OP thinks it will be easier to reach the top of the G clamps.  If this is the case then I can think of far better ways that retain the bar and screw.

 

I also wonder if the lip or cover is distorted because I never had to use a hammer on the locking screw to seal the hatch. I did, however, renew the seal when it hardened.

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28 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

I think much depends upon the weed hatch design. I am sure the lip on JennyB's weed hatch trunk would have been large enough to use G clamps plus wood if required, but I would only see that as an emergency measure.

 

I note we have not been told why  the OP feels they need to do this. As BMS suggest the mechanism may be broken or I wonder if its one of the Trads with the weed hatch down a trunk and the OP thinks it will be easier to reach the top of the G clamps.  If this is the case then I can think of far better ways that retain the bar and screw.

 

I also wonder if the lip or cover is distorted because I never had to use a hammer on the locking screw to seal the hatch. I did, however, renew the seal when it hardened.

Is that for me? I am not able to use two hands to tighten the screw due to location, so I tighten as much as I can with one hand, then a tap ot even two to make sure it wont shift.

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1 minute ago, LadyG said:

Is that for me? I am not able to use two hands to tighten the screw due to location, so I tighten as much as I can with one hand, then a tap ot even two to make sure it wont shift.

I knew I had read it in the topic and mis-attributed it to the OP. You seem reasonably competent so I believe yours will be a tap and not a great big clout. Seems you have another not easy to get at weed hatch. Another reason I would not want a trad.

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What is supposed to hole the lid down? Surely it can't be supposed to just sit there?

 

My suggestion would be to use the G clamps with or without wood/rubber to help stop them slipping for now but ASAP get it to a yard where a propper cross bar and big screw system could be fitted.

 

 

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10 hours ago, Bee said:

I've always found G clamps excellent on wood but not very good on metal. Better than nothing though

Could always use mini G-clamps onto thin slats of wood temporarily masticked onto the weed hatch lid. Use a few blobs of Stixall. I'd use one clamp on each accessible side of the hatch.

 

Just test it by running the engine both in and out of gear at a variety of revs for a couple of hours before heading out. Mark around the clamps with a marker pen to see if the vibration affects the positions. If they move at all then don't head out!

Edited by blackrose
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39 minutes ago, John Lewis said:

I wasn't sure on the regs so was checking on here regards that - but could I not drill maybe four holes for bolts with locking nuts and washers? Does it have to be in that threaded bar style design as Tony shows?

There are no regulations to be met.

If you are thinking about the "Boat safety Scheme" then this does not apply to the 'safety' of the boat, but the safety of 3rd parties (other boats / boaters, people walking along the towpath etc).

 

The boat could be sinking (or even sunk) and it would still pass the BSSC is it was not going to burst into flames, explode or be a 'risk' to other people.

 

You can fasten the lid down however you wish, but rememeber (as stated above) if you suddenly get a mattress wrapped around the  propeller whilst being carried down the river at 5 mph, you need to be able to access the prop and clear it almost 'instantly'.

 

 

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Guess you could drill and tap some holes in the flanges then fit some bolts not sure what they are called but with a big plastic head so you wouldn't need tools to remove them...  but the usual method is used almost universally because no one has come up with anything better...

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1 minute ago, jonathanA said:

Guess you could drill and tap some holes in the flanges then fit some bolts not sure what they are called but with a big plastic head so you wouldn't need tools to remove them...  but the usual method is used almost universally because no one has come up with anything better...

Wingnuts?

We had a lad at school and that was his nickname, very character building....

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