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Fuel tank not CE stamped


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BSS says

"To reduce the likelihood of the tank deteriorating, and fuel then seeping into the boat, fuel tanks must be made of corrosion-resistant material, which is suitable for the fuel being used.

SUITABLE MATERIALS INCLUDE:

 

Diesel fuel  Petrol
Untreated mild steel Aluminium alloy†
Mild steel* Lead-coated steel
Aluminium alloy† Brass
GRP Copper (tin coated internally)
Stainless steel Internally galvanised mild-steel
Fire-resistant polyethylene tanks†† Stainless steel
    Fire-resistant polyethylene tanks††

THE FOLLOWING MUST NOT BE USED:

 

Diesel fuel Petrol
Lead coated steel Untreated mild steel
Copper Interior painted tanks
 Internally galvanised steel GRP

 

If there is a fire near the tank, you will need to ensure that the tank materialdoes not immediately fail, leaking more fuel into the fire and causing it to escalate. Whatever material your tank is made of, it must have a fire resistance of at least 21/2 minutes (in accordance with BS EN ISO 10088). However, the greater the fire resistance, the more protection there will be from the risk of the tank failing.

To be sure of the sound construction of your fuel tank, so that it doesn't leak fuel during everyday use, your tank has to have undergone a pressure test of 0.25kgf/cm2 (or 3.5lbf/in2) before being used, and must be marked to indicate this. All joints and seams on tanks must be properly welded, brazed or closeriveted to sustain that test"

 

so in theory there is no problem using a plastic tank  most do not seem to carry an en10088 certification but nor do any steel tanks I have seen, you could do the pressure test yourself but for that size tank hardly likely to fail I would have thought that providing it is a commercial unit it is unlikely that the BSS man would take exception given the thousands of petrol outboards with similar in use. As it is so small for extra safety could always be placed outside the engine bay.

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2 minutes ago, jetzi said:

Right, so if it isn't CE approved and that's a requirement, you can just remove the tank when the inspector comes. I suppose not having a fuel tank at all can't be a BSS fail! 

BSS requirements are here: https://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/media/268789/ecp-private-boats-ed3_rev2_apr2015_public_final.pdf 

 

You're likely to get a better and more conclusive answer from this document than anyone on the forum. I would note though that I have heard a number of folks say that BSS examiners are known to apply some of their own "interpretation" to these guidelines. I've only had one BSS exam, and I was asked to do a couple of things that weren't in the guidelines - I did them, because rather safe than sorry and it's easier than arguing with the examiner. 

 

I had a quick skim through the diesel fuel tank requirements, and I can't see anything disallowing plastic tanks. The fuel line"must be of a suitable material" though and I think that means metal. 

 

I'm always very impressed with how safe diesel fuel is in general though. I'd put 5 litres of diesel quite low on the list of things likely to kill you or your neighbours on a boat. Not advocating cheating a BSS of course. 

 

Is there an old tank that no longer in use? I have a 230 litre diesel tank on my narrowboat and I can't really picture how a 5 litre tank would work at all...

The fuel line has to be a fire rated ISO hose which you can buy from a Chandlers. Vent has to 3/8 an inch in diameter but doesn’t have to be for fuel tanks under 27 litres. 

I’ve answered my own question! No to unmarked CE plastic tanks. 

Fuel tanks....

 

‘ Materials obviously suitable for diesel include: • aluminium alloy
• ‘CE’ marked plastic
• FRP
• mild steel
• stainless steel’

 

‘ All plastic fuel tanks outside the scope of the RCD, which are not manufactured to an appropriate standard or code, do not comply with Boat Safety requirements’ . 

 

 

 

 

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41 minutes ago, Phoenix_V said:

 

The BSS has very differing requirements for fuel tanks for use in 'permanent engine installations' (Part 2) and for 'outboard engine installations' (Part 5)

 

I think some communication with the BSS may be in order to see if the relevant sections can be 'cherry-picked' to allow for the 'Outboard use of fuel tanks' to be applied to 'permanent engine installations'.

 

Things to be considered include provision of an 'emergency shut off',  fuel return lines as required for diesel engine installations, "Non‐metallic fuel tanks must have intrinsic fire resistance of at least 2.5 minutes at 600˚C or be otherwise protected from fire."

 

 

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Good news everyone! I’ve just ordered a custom made steel fuel tank which will be bolted to the wall on the inside of the boat. I’ve decided to go for a thin tank which can hold 15 litres ( so no more Jerry cans). Fuel inlet in accordance with regulations 33mm diameter ( min is 31.5mm on BSS) which will go to the outside of the boat with ISO rated pipe, 9.5mm vent pipe ISO( min is 9.5mm) and 9.5mm fuel line ISO with cut off switch. 
I managed to find someone to do it for £100 plus postage. Ridiculous how much some welders are charging ... one quoted me £360 for bit of metal! Mental. 

Edited by MrBoater2021
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Just now, MrBoater2021 said:

Good news everyone! I’ve just ordered a custom made steel fuel tank which will be bolted to the wall on the inside of the boat. I’ve decided to go for a thin tank which can hold 15 litres ( so no more Jerry cans). Fuel inlet in accordance with regulations 33mm diameter ( min is 31.5mm on BSS) which will go to the outside of the boat with ISO rated pipe, 9.5mm vent pipe ISO( min is 9.5mm) and 9.5mm fuel line ISO with cut off switch. 
I managed to find someone to do it for £100 plus postage. Ridiculous how much some welders are charging ... one quote me £360 for bit of metal! Mental. 

 

Good news and good decision.

 

Do not forget the vent pipe which must be fitted with an 'anti-flash device' (Flame arrester)

 

From the BSS :

 

Vent outlets must be fitted with either a suitable proprietary flame arrester or gauze of at least 11 wires per linear cm (28 wires per inch) mesh. Where the flame arrester is not of a suitable proprietary type the openings in the arrester’s body must be at least of the same area as the cross‐sectional area of the vent line. Flame arresters or gauze must be complete and free of damage or restrictions.

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2 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

Good news and good decision.

 

Do not forget the vent pipe which must be fitted with an 'anti-flash device' (Flame arrester)

 

From the BSS :

 

Vent outlets must be fitted with either a suitable proprietary flame arrester or gauze of at least 11 wires per linear cm (28 wires per inch) mesh. Where the flame arrester is not of a suitable proprietary type the openings in the arrester’s body must be at least of the same area as the cross‐sectional area of the vent line. Flame arresters or gauze must be complete and free of damage or restrictions.

Thanks. Is this what you are talking about for vent pipe? 
 

https://www.asap-supplies.com/products/maestrini-chrome-plated-brass-tank-vent-with-gauze-16mm-305102

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5 minutes ago, MrBoater2021 said:

 

Yes - that need fitting 'in the outside air ' (ie not in the cabin or engine room) and attached to the end of the vent pipe.

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5 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

Yes - that need fitting 'in the outside air ' (ie not in the cabin or engine room) and attached to the end of the vent pipe.

Yeah I know. It will be me, the drill and a metal file for a few hours creating a vent hole and fuel inlet hole on the outside. 

Edited by MrBoater2021
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3 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

I think the breather outlet has to be higher than the filler and the filler needs installing in such a way that any fuel spilt can not get into the boat.

The breather and filler will go out on to the deck. Any spills will technically run on to the deck first and then into the water. Not brilliant for slipping over. Is it ok that it will run to the back deck first? But no fuel will enter the boat. 

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11 minutes ago, MrBoater2021 said:

The breather and filler will go out on to the deck. Any spills will technically run on to the deck first and then into the water. Not brilliant for slipping over. Is it ok that it will run to the back deck first? But no fuel will enter the boat. 

Last boat I had,(outboard powered) had the fuel tank inboard mounted in a steel box with a lid and a drain and vent to overboard.

When I had a BSS examination,the examiner said that was the proper way to do it.

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32 minutes ago, MrBoater2021 said:

The breather and filler will go out on to the deck. Any spills will technically run on to the deck first and then into the water. Not brilliant for slipping over. Is it ok that it will run to the back deck first? But no fuel will enter the boat. 

No, there must be a deflection system such that any spillage is immediately run off the deck.

 

It seems ridiculous but you may be 'OK' with your new tank

 

BSS :

 

Accordingly, fuel filling points must be positioned so that…

 the camber or configuration of the deck; or,

 a coaming; or,

 a diverter arrangement; …causes any overflow to discharge overboard;

 

NOTE – this requirement does not apply to the following provided there is no risk of unseen spillage:

• historic (i.e. bona fide ex‐working boat) diesel‐engined narrowboats;

diesel tanks, of up to a maximum capacity of 27 litres.

 

Most boats have something like this :

 

Lockable fuel caps... - Boat Building & Maintenance - Canal World

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:

No, there must be a deflection system such that any spillage is immediately run off the deck.

 

It seems ridiculous but you may be 'OK' with your new tank

 

BSS :

 

Accordingly, fuel filling points must be positioned so that…

 the camber or configuration of the deck; or,

 a coaming; or,

 a diverter arrangement; …causes any overflow to discharge overboard;

 

NOTE – this requirement does not apply to the following provided there is no risk of unseen spillage:

• historic (i.e. bona fide ex‐working boat) diesel‐engined narrowboats;

diesel tanks, of up to a maximum capacity of 27 litres.

 

Most boats have something like this :

 

Lockable fuel caps... - Boat Building & Maintenance - Canal World

I see. Should be fine as under 12 litres and spilt fuel will go overboard . I’ll send a picture to my BSS examiner that done my exam last time to check it’s ok. I could always create a runner from the filling point so it runs directly over board. 

Edited by MrBoater2021
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Whatever you or anybody else does, don't resort to [url=ce label | eBay] this[/url] 

Such regulations are not to be taken frivolously.

Just like my 1998 Harley Fat Boy that was cleared for importation into UK, yet failed its first MOT 2001 because of no CE plate on the exhaust.  It still had every plate, sign, part reg, number, reference, design spec. that got it in here ..... but no CE label.

 

Don't be tempted. it's only common sense.   

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3 minutes ago, zenataomm said:

Whatever you or anybody else does, don't resort to [url=ce label | eBay] this[/url] 

Such regulations are not to be taken frivolously.

Just like my 1998 Harley Fat Boy that was cleared for importation into UK, yet failed its first MOT 2001 because of no CE plate on the exhaust.  It still had every plate, sign, part reg, number, reference, design spec. that got it in here ..... but no CE label.

 

Don't be tempted. it's only common sense.   

I’ve seen a few boats around using cheap eBay plastic fuel tanks on the outside. Probably for diesel heaters/ Webastos. I personally wouldn’t worry about a small amount of diesel as it’s low risk. Petrol and LPG is a different story. 

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