Should I Install a tiller shaft bearing?

[Rivelin]

I've been thinking I should fit a top tiller shaft bearing, as when I use a fair amount of revs in reverse I get a nice leg shower!

 

Currently as you can see in the photo the tiller shaft comes out of a welded box (no visible bolts or screws), and is pretty loose. The boat is 1981 so I'm guessing there's no top bearing?

 

Do you think it would be worth the pain (if I did it) or cost (if someone else did it)?

 

Thanks in advance

 

[Phoenix_V]

On the one hand it has lasted 40 years. On the other is there any easy way of removing the existing top bearing (or rather sliding it up the shaft) as you would need to do so if you ever have to remove the rudder? you could always put a piece of plastic to divert the water shower effect.

[Bee]

I think I would but its getting the Z iron bendy thing off the shaft that's the problem. I don't think I would remove the box. You would need to use blind nuts (Rivbolts) or something or drill and tap so you could bolt the bearing flange down and make sure that the whole thing would fit onto the top of the box without hanging over the edge. It would make steering a nicer and drier experience but I think its a summer job.

[dor]

I had a similar arrangement on a previous boat with a plain bearing.  The tiller used to shake a lot and water spurted up.  Fitted a proper tiller bearing and it made a world of difference.

 

 If you do it, fit the bearing with a nylon ball rather than the square ones with a ball bearing as the latter invariably rust, especially as the angle means the grease doesn’t stay in the bearing.

[David Mack]

A top bearing is designed to be a bearing, not a water seal. If  your configuration shoves lots of water up the rudder tube, then that is still going to happen if you add a bearing. Lots of water isn't going to be conducive to a long bearing life (assuming you are proposing a ball bearing race).

Working boats managed with crude plain rudder shaft bearings under much harder use than a leisure boat gets. I would leave well alone, other than maybe adding a sheet of rubber or plastic  around the shaft between the rudder and the bottom of the rudder tube as @Phoenix_Vsuggests.

[Stilllearning]

I had a boat that had a similar problem, and solved it in the dry dock one year. Your boat might have a problem with access below the rear cants, making fitting a good bearing a bit tricky, but you will know best about that. 

It does beg the question of why water rushes up the rudder tube, and investigating the set up below the uxter might go some way towards solving the problem. For what it’s worth, on my old boat I welded plates horizontally on both sides of the rudder about 2” below the at rest water line, thus limiting the flow of water vertically. It also had the benefit of improving the thrust from the prop and eliminated cavitation, which was really why I did it in the first place.

[bizzard]

Plain bearings are good and last forever really if oiled now and then, or heat up some sterntube grease until runny and pour a drop onto it. To stop water splashing up fit a vehicle CV boot gaiter around the stock, between bearing and tiller. If you can't or don't want to remove the tiller to fit one get a stick together one from a motor factors- car spares shop. You trim them to fit with craft knife provided, super glue for rubber should also be in the kit.

[cuthound]

4 hours ago, nickhindle said:

I've been thinking I should fit a top tiller shaft bearing, as when I use a fair amount of revs in reverse I get a nice leg shower!

 

Currently as you can see in the photo the tiller shaft comes out of a welded box (no visible bolts or screws), and is pretty loose. The boat is 1981 so I'm guessing there's no top bearing?

 

Do you think it would be worth the pain (if I did it) or cost (if someone else did it)?

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

You shouldn't be standing close enough to the tiller bearing to get a wet leg, especially when reversing.

 

If the rudder hits an underwater obstruction it can force the tiller hard across. If you are standing next to it, the tiller bar can push you into the cut right next to the propellor, which can suck you under in reverse.

 

Best to steer from Justin front of the tiller bar to avoid this (like the boatmen in the working days did).

[matty40s]

39 minutes ago, cuthound said:

 

You shouldn't be standing close enough to the tiller bearing to get a wet leg, especially when reversing.

 

If the rudder hits an underwater obstruction it can force the tiller hard across. If you are standing next to it, the tiller bar can push you into the cut right next to the propellor, which can suck you under in reverse.

 

Best to steer from Justin front of the tiller bar to avoid this (like the boatmen in the working days did).

What if he doesnt know Justin?

[cuthound]

2 minutes ago, matty40s said:

What if he doesnt know Justin?

 

Hmm, seems like autowrong has found a new way to catch me out! ?

[Tracy D'arth]

5 hours ago, Bee said:

I think I would but its getting the Z iron bendy thing off the shaft that's the problem. I don't think I would remove the box. You would need to use blind nuts (Rivbolts) or something or drill and tap so you could bolt the bearing flange down and make sure that the whole thing would fit onto the top of the box without hanging over the edge. It would make steering a nicer and drier experience but I think its a summer job.

If you do this mod, do not drill and tap the deck if it is the diesel tank, you will never stop it weeping fuel up the holes. 

 

Better to tap a steel plate and then weld that onto the deck or weld nuts onto the deck which has the advantage of letting any water that comes up run out from under the bearing rather than into it.

[Rivelin]

Thanks all, plenty of options to consider ?

[Rivelin]

On 02/01/2021 at 15:35, cuthound said:

 

You shouldn't be standing close enough to the tiller bearing to get a wet leg, especially when reversing.

 

If the rudder hits an underwater obstruction it can force the tiller hard across. If you are standing next to it, the tiller bar can push you into the cut right next to the propellor, which can suck you under in reverse.

 

Best to steer from Justin front of the tiller bar to avoid this (like the boatmen in the working days did).

I know you are trying to help, but I know where to stand on my deck thank you.

[dmr]

The Warstock bearings are popular (used by Colecraft etc) these use a hard rubber insert/sleeve rather than a ball bearing race so cope well with water. We had one but the rubber sleeve was missing. The bottom bearing cup was pretty loose too. In reverse, and high power forward/turning we had a huge fountain that really upset the dog who likes to lie on the counter.  In the drydock for blacking the people there asked if we'd like it all fixed. Cup ground off, rudder stock cleaned up, new cup turned to fit and welded on, new Warstock bearing fitted etc etc for not too much money on the grand scheme of things. All much much nicer now, no rattling and a dribble rather than a fountain.

 

................Dave

 

 

[nb Innisfree]

Provided the tiller arm is reconfigured to enable easy removal a Warstock bearing is easily replaced or fitted with new O rings. 

[BWM]

On that age of boat, it may be worth having the rudder tube inspected before changing anything. It isn't uncommon for corrosion here to need attention and if it does you can decide what to do starting with a clean sheet.

 Not trying to present a doom like situation but it would be useful to assess whilst you are considering modifying that area.