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Re-gas a 12v fridge


NB_Box12

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Hi folks,

 

I need my 12v Shoreline fridge to be re-gassed, which uses the R134A gas type - does anyone know of someone in the Worcester area that would be able to come and do this for me? I'm reluctant to get one of the DIY kits, as if you mess it up you could potentially knacker your fridge, and these are worth around £500, so I don't want to risk it myself.

 

Many thanks

 

Nick

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OK, thanks for your response. I was under the impresssion that they do lose their gas eventually (mine is 9 years old) and need re-gassing from time to time.

 

But it might be a leak as you say, and I'll need an engineer either way - whether it's to fix the leak or to re-gas.

 

 

 

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My 12v Batts fridge is 26 years old, it has  no leak so it has never been re-gassed.

 

Any fridge engineer with the correct vac pump and gauges can re-gas, finding a slow leak is the hard part that takes skill and knowledge. If the fridge is in good order otherwise it may be worth fixing. If the door is not fitting perfectly on the seals or it is rusted around where the door fits or if the lining is cracked anywhere it is better you buy a new one.

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30 minutes ago, NB_Box12 said:

OK, thanks for your response. I was under the impresssion that they do lose their gas eventually (mine is 9 years old) and need re-gassing from time to time.

 

But it might be a leak as you say, and I'll need an engineer either way - whether it's to fix the leak or to re-gas.

 

 

 

That is true for vehicles where they have mechanical joints in the system and they gradually deteriorate.

It is not true for domestic refrigerators which are welded sealed systems.

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Thanks for all your replies. I will look around and see who I can find in my local area. I had someone inspect it already a few weeks ago - that's how I know it needs to be regassed. He didn't mention any leak, though. He wasn't keen on regassing it himself, as he said it's an 'old' type of gas that he was not certified to work with any more.

 

I'll have to see who else is available in my area to do the job and see how much they're charging. I'll post my findings here if I manage to find any useful info.

 

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25 minutes ago, NB_Box12 said:

Thanks for all your replies. I will look around and see who I can find in my local area. I had someone inspect it already a few weeks ago - that's how I know it needs to be regassed. He didn't mention any leak, though. He wasn't keen on regassing it himself, as he said it's an 'old' type of gas that he was not certified to work with any more.

 

I'll have to see who else is available in my area to do the job and see how much they're charging. I'll post my findings here if I manage to find any useful info.

 

I would be a bit wary of the advice you quote.

The "old" gases were primarily R12 and R22, and these did not require certification to work with.

It is only the newer replacements that do need certification to manage.

What exactly are the symptoms you experience, as there are a number that can easily be mis-diagnosed?

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The fridge is just not cooling any more. I've been through the usual electrical checks, suspected that maybe the wiring to the fridge may be too thin, but then ended up wiring it up to a 12v car battery with much shorter and thicker wires for several hours to see if that made any difference - and it didn't. Then when the engineer came out to me and said it needed regassing, that's what's lead me to where I am today. I think it really needs another engineer to give it a once over just to confirm, so that was the point of me posting.

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, NB_Box12 said:

The fridge is just not cooling any more. I've been through the usual electrical checks, suspected that maybe the wiring to the fridge may be too thin, but then ended up wiring it up to a 12v car battery with much shorter and thicker wires for several hours to see if that made any difference - and it didn't. Then when the engineer came out to me and said it needed regassing, that's what's lead me to where I am today. I think it really needs another engineer to give it a once over just to confirm, so that was the point of me posting.

 

 

 

Does the motor run at all?

If so, can you feel any ice forming on the cooling evaporator?

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I think you'll find that R12 & R22 are no longer available as they are both serious Ozone destroyer.s.


Very small leaks can be the very devil to trace.

It also should be noted that there is a small quantity of lubricant mixed in with the gas that is carried around the system and lubricates the pump.   Less gas means less lubrication means more wear.

A mechanical pump will have some form of valve(s), a failure here will result in no pressurization so no cooling even if the pump is still running.


On balance I think it is time to consider a new refrigerator, the new designs are more energy efficient anyway.

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1 hour ago, Man 'o Kent said:

I think you'll find that R12 & R22 are no longer available as they are both serious Ozone destroyer.s.


...


On balance I think it is time to consider a new refrigerator, the new designs are more energy efficient anyway.

 

Maybe, but R134a was one of the newer ones, and that's what he said it takes.  It's not the newest spec, but it's still available.

 

My Waeco fridge did exactly what has been described and a regas fixed it.  The commercial fridge engineer who did it couldn't find a leak, suspected the filter but tried it anyway 6 months ago and it was working fine until I switched it off in November due to lack of electricity in winter.

 

It cost me £50 to fix, not £600 for a replacement so I'll stick with it a bit longer!

 

@NB_Box12 Sorry, but he doesn't go anywhere near Worcester, or I'd give you his number.  Find a commercial fridge engineer with a mobile phone number, and you're likely to be speaking to the bloke who does the work rather than an office.  The good ones will at least look at it for the challenge and a few quid.

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A clssic sign of a fridge being low on refridgerant gas is that the compressor runs all the time but the fridge stukl doesn't get cold enough.

 

As others have said, if it has lost gas then it has a leak somewhere.

 

These days it is not usually cost effective to trace and repair the clean and then regas, because of the need to safely recover all of the old refridgerant and safely dispose of it. To do this the gas technician has to be registered and certified.

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14 hours ago, Man 'o Kent said:

I think you'll find that R12 & R22 are no longer available as they are both serious Ozone destroyer.s.


Very small leaks can be the very devil to trace.

It also should be noted that there is a small quantity of lubricant mixed in with the gas that is carried around the system and lubricates the pump.   Less gas means less lubrication means more wear.

A mechanical pump will have some form of valve(s), a failure here will result in no pressurization so no cooling even if the pump is still running.


On balance I think it is time to consider a new refrigerator, the new designs are more energy efficient anyway.

There are no valves in a compressor refrigerator. If the gas is short, the motor will run, quietly, but little or no cooling will occur.

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35 minutes ago, cuthound said:

A clssic sign of a fridge being low on refridgerant gas is that the compressor runs all the time but the fridge stukl doesn't get cold enough.

 

As others have said, if it has lost gas then it has a leak somewhere.

 

These days it is not usually cost effective to trace and repair the clean and then regas, because of the need to safely recover all of the old refridgerant and safely dispose of it. To do this the gas technician has to be registered and certified.

I think most professional refrigeration engineers will recover the gas and recycle it. When I fitted and serviced car air con I took great delight in recovering refrigerant, recycling it whilst recovering, then selling it back to the customer.

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26 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

If the gas has leaked out, what gas will there be to 'safely dispose of' ?

 

Depends on how much gas has leaked out. It doesn't always completely escape.

 

 

18 minutes ago, pearley said:

I think most professional refrigeration engineers will recover the gas and recycle it. When I fitted and serviced car air con I took great delight in recovering refrigerant, recycling it whilst recovering, then selling it back to the customer.

 

Again it depends on the refridgerant. 

 

It is no longer permitted to recycle older refridgerants such as R11 & R12.

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36 minutes ago, cuthound said:

 

Depends on how much gas has leaked out. It doesn't always completely escape.

 

 

 

Again it depends on the refridgerant. 

 

It is no longer permitted to recycle older refridgerants such as R11 & R12.

But the OP said his was 134A

 

We only started recovering and recycling R12 around 1990 but for 134A from its introduction into cars. Our first machine was all singing, all dancing recovery, recycling and recharging. Cost a bloody fortune and only got used a handful of times in the first year mainly for dealers who didn't have their own equipment.

 

Leak detection on R12 was fairly easy. Generally you just looked for the oily patch but 134a much more difficult. In some cases like condenser leaks they could be seen but UV dye made it easier except over the years some cars ended up with almost as much dye as oil. And if you had a large leak like a burst pipe or front seal the dye would be everywhere and a right pain to clean up.

 

I never had a refrigerant handling certificate as I retired before they become mandatory but would find it a bit galling if I had only for Halfords being allowed to continue selling top up cans for all and sundry. Did get 98% in my C & G Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning Service & Repair though.

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I have A Batts-LEC fridge freezer on the boat which runs beautifully - BUT the thermostat is pretty rubbish (it doesn't always cut out when it should.....

 

I wonder whether (given that the OP says the motor is running too long) it may be a 'stat problem and not the compressor setup?

There was no mention of whether the unit was too cold OR not cold enough which leads me to think that the stat: could be the issue.

It's worth having a look - tweek the stat control and see if and where on the setting dial it clicks into operation. Takes but a few minutes and could save some money...

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