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Alternator Bracket Replacement


Gabby_Boating

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Hi guys, can anyone help us with this... One of our alternator brackets has somehow snapped resulting in a number of cables shorting. Engineer is quoting £64 for replacement alternator plate which seems mad for a piece of metal 18cm long. It's an Isuzu marine 4LC, I think similar to the canal line beta marine engines. 

 

Do I need to replace it with this 65 bracket that has to be shipped from Belgium, or does anyone know if this universal plate would do: 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alternator-Mounting-Brackets-Car-Van-Truck-Chand-Type-Curved-Slot-Adjustable/322864183673?hash=item4b2c347979:g:z2MAAOSwhDBZ~f0e

 

Thanks!!! 

 

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5 minutes ago, Gabby&Jack said:

Hi guys, can anyone help us with this... One of our alternator brackets has somehow snapped resulting in a number of cables shorting. Engineer is quoting £64 for replacement alternator plate which seems mad for a piece of metal 18cm long. It's an Isuzu marine 4LC, I think similar to the canal line beta marine engines. 

 

Do I need to replace it with this 65 bracket that has to be shipped from Belgium, or does anyone know if this universal plate would do: 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alternator-Mounting-Brackets-Car-Van-Truck-Chand-Type-Curved-Slot-Adjustable/322864183673?hash=item4b2c347979:g:z2MAAOSwhDBZ~f0e

 

Thanks!!! 

 

A picture of the original would help in making a comparison.

If its just the adjuster arm then anything similar about the same size would do.

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There is no way I would pay £65 for an adjuster bracket. some call the alternator body ends brackets so i wonder if the engineer quoted for the alternator drive end bracket (body).

 

Get the one you linked to and be ready, if necessary, to drill or file out the hole or slot.

 

Even the fancy adjusters with a bolt in to push on the alternator are cheaper then £65

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You need a new belt, possible a little shorter so that the alternator is closer to the engine. And a new adjuster bar.

 

The lower swivel bolt looks loose to me, this would allow the alternator to vibrate and snap the upper adjusting bar..................................

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I bet if the broken bracket was taken to an agricultural engineer or a jobbing garage it could be welded. I have seen a number of them welded up over the years.  I agree with @Tracy D'arth the lower bolt looks loose. You can see the aluminium powder where the bolt has fretted the bracket at the front and the rust dust in oil where its done it to the distance piece at the back.

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3 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

I bet if the broken bracket was taken to an agricultural engineer or a jobbing garage it could be welded. I have seen a number of them welded up over the years.  I agree with @Tracy D'arth the lower bolt looks loose. You can see the aluminium powder where the bolt has fretted the bracket at the front and the rust dust in oil where its done it to the distance piece at the back.

Agreed. The belt looks worn out to me.

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Probably not exactly in line at both ends of it and was under sideways stress and broke with the buzz of the engine. When refitting bolt it to the engine first, swing it over to see if it meets and covers the alternators hole nicely and accurately without any forcing sideways, inwards or outwards, To get it right use washers.  Personally I would gas weld it,

 to smelt it back together using a bit of rod to fill in. Also to help cancel vibrational buzz a heftyish lump of rubber stuck onto the middle of the adjuster bracket as an absorber.

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We had fractures of adjusting brackets on Ford vans due to vibration. We fitted a spare extra nut and bolt with several washers in the slotted part about central to dampen the vibrations after adjusting the belt tension. It cured the fracture problem.

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6 minutes ago, bizzard said:

Probably not exactly in line at both ends of it and was under sideways stress and broke with the buzz of the engine. When refitting bolt it to the engine first, swing it over to see if it meets and covers the alternators hole nicely and accurately without any forcing sideways, inwards or outwards, To get it right use washers.  Personally I would gas weld it,

 to smelt it back together using a bit of rod to fill in. Also to help cancel vibrational buzz a heftyish lump of rubber stuck onto the middle of the adjuster bracket as an absorber.

This is spot on advice. It really is all about absolutely precise alignment, to avoid any future fracturing of a bracket, and to save on wearing out belts. Use washers as shims, and take time to get the alternator perfectly in line so that there is no movement as you tighten up the nuts, I.e. so that all the nuts are doing is acting as fixings and not also pulling parts into line.

The only thing that should be under tension is the fan belt.

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3 minutes ago, Stilllearning said:

This is spot on advice. It really is all about absolutely precise alignment, to avoid any future fracturing of a bracket, and to save on wearing out belts. Use washers as shims, and take time to get the alternator perfectly in line so that there is no movement as you tighten up the nuts, I.e. so that all the nuts are doing is acting as fixings and not also pulling parts into line.

The only thing that should be under tension is the fan belt.

Yes. That one probably broke because of the main alternator bolt being lose causing extra buzz, but I would still fit the adjuster bracket accurately.

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39 minutes ago, Loddon said:

I replaced mine with this from a Jaguar XJS

I sourced mine as a complete assembly with the nuts from a breakers yard.

Again I think it was @frangar that did it first ;)

 

 

 

XJS-1H08-C34241-2.jpg

 

Exactly what mine has been fitted with 'from new' in 2003.

Seems to have been a standard fitment on Ford marinisations.

 

 

 

IMG_20151211_161144.jpg

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The brackes in the photo looks as if it would be out of alignment before it broke - and that may have caused ot to shear under stress?

If so a replacement might benefit from some packing washers / distance pieces so that there's no twisting action when tightened up ??

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4 hours ago, Gabby&Jack said:

Hi guys, can anyone help us with this... One of our alternator brackets has somehow snapped resulting in a number of cables shorting. Engineer is quoting £64 for replacement alternator plate which seems mad for a piece of metal 18cm long. It's an Isuzu marine 4LC, I think similar to the canal line beta marine engines. 

 

Do I need to replace it with this 65 bracket that has to be shipped from Belgium, or does anyone know if this universal plate would do: 

You can get a stainless steel one designed for a De Lorean that looks like it will fit and save an entire penny on the price you've been quoted. All you need then is a flux capacitor and get your boat up to 88mph and you can go back in time, tighten up the loose lower alternator bolt and prevent the vibration breaking the old bracket.

Then the old bracket won't break, but then you won't replace it with a De Lorean part and go back in time, so the bracket will still break, so ...

My brain hurts.

Jen

  • Haha 1
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On 16/12/2020 at 12:51, Gabby&Jack said:

Hi guys, can anyone help us with this... One of our alternator brackets has somehow snapped resulting in a number of cables shorting. Engineer is quoting £64 for replacement alternator plate which seems mad for a piece of metal 18cm long. It's an Isuzu marine 4LC, I think similar to the canal line beta marine engines. 

 

Do I need to replace it with this 65 bracket that has to be shipped from Belgium, or does anyone know if this universal plate would do: 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alternator-Mounting-Brackets-Car-Van-Truck-Chand-Type-Curved-Slot-Adjustable/322864183673?hash=item4b2c347979:g:z2MAAOSwhDBZ~f0e

 

Thanks!!! 

 

Does his quote of 64 squids include doing the job? If so then its very fair if he has to turn up and do the job, after all whilst driving to you or indeed whilst booking time out to you he/she cant earn anything else. If the 64 squids is just supply then its a con ?

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