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Sparks from exhaust and ticking noise from BMC 1.5 engine


Mikepunn

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Just a quickie, your spanners need to be imperial not metric, fortunately 11mm is almost 7/16" and 14mm is near 9/16" .

It will be important when you come to tighten things up on reassembly.

 How are you going to tighten the centre row of head bolts? There is a special spanner that you can us as the rocker shaft assembly is in the way and all bolts should go down in sequence.

You can use an 11/16" crowfoot wrench on a socket extension if you have one.

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22 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Only if you have a ring compressor or hose clip to get it back in without breaking rings. Pouring  thin oil into the cylinder may give you some idea on the state of the rings  but it will still be a guess.

 

Is the oil pump drive still working? Check the skew gears at the top and the slotted drive on the jack shaft and pump spindle.

 

I would check the injector heat shields and renew all the copper washers too, shields are known to break up but the bits stay in the head combustion pocket, until you run it then they drop into the pistons!

 

Its possible that an inlet valve seized  and the piston hit it and bent it so it won't be sealing properly. If that is on the cylinder with lower compression then chances are that the rings are good and its a valve leaking.

Be very certain that the injectors are BMC ones, it is possible to fit Perkins injectors but they are longer and will break out the heat shields on the head

Hi tracy, i have all the kit somewhere in my garage for refitting pistons but not to hand.

I think your right about the sticking (bent valve) but all looks good at the moment until I strip the head down to investigate it further.

The pump appears good and the skew gear pushes up and locks into place, the slotted drive is undamaged apart from some scoring on the top that I'll file away. It seems like it never slotted into place. I put some oil down the supply channel to the rocker on the cylinder head and this didn't seem to move down, maybe a non return valve of some sort close to the pump. 

The injectors are defiantly not original, looking on eBay I have come across the exact ones that are fitted at the moment. If you could take a look and tell me what you think, the one on the right is the ones that are on it and the one on the left I found in the engine room, I have the other 3. Also could anyone advise me as to what way around the atomization washers go or doesn't it really matter. Cheers 

16069175452621322723856.jpg

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22 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Only if you have a ring compressor or hose clip to get it back in without breaking rings. Pouring  thin oil into the cylinder may give you some idea on the state of the rings  but it will still be a guess.

 

Is the oil pump drive still working? Check the skew gears at the top and the slotted drive on the jack shaft and pump spindle.

 

I would check the injector heat shields and renew all the copper washers too, shields are known to break up but the bits stay in the head combustion pocket, until you run it then they drop into the pistons!

 

Its possible that an inlet valve seized  and the piston hit it and bent it so it won't be sealing properly. If that is on the cylinder with lower compression then chances are that the rings are good and its a valve leaking.

Be very certain that the injectors are BMC ones, it is possible to fit Perkins injectors but they are longer and will break out the heat shields on the head

Hi tracy, i have all the kit somewhere in my garage for refitting pistons but not to hand.

I think your right about the sticking (bent valve) but all looks good at the moment until I strip the head down to investigate it further.

The pump appears good and the skew gear pushes up and locks into place, the slotted drive is undamaged apart from some scoring on the top that I'll file away. It seems like it never slotted into place. I put some oil down the supply channel to the rocker on the cylinder head and this didn't seem to move down, maybe a non return valve of some sort close to the pump. 

The injectors are defiantly not original, looking on eBay I have come across the exact ones that are fitted at the moment. If you could take a look and tell me what you think, the one on the right is the ones that are on it and the one on the left I found in the engine room, I have the other 3. Also could anyone advise me as to what way around the atomization washers go or doesn't it really matter. Cheers 

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If the head has shallow chambers where the valve heads are ''can't remember'' turn the head upside down and pour paraffin, white spirit into each. if any valve is leaking by it will make itself obvious by dripping from and intake port or exhaust port

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The one on the left with the big domed top cap is the BMC injector.  If you look at the end you will see the side hole of the pinteaux port as well as the central fragile pin..

 

The other is wrong, it is too long on the part that goes into the head and may well have wrecked the top hat heat shields that are down that hole.

 

Check very carefully as if damaged the bits will be in the Ricardo chambers in the head, until they drop out into the cylinder when you have rebuilt the engine..............................

 

The manual I sent you will show the washers and heat shields and how they fit.

 

 

Edited by Tracy D'arth
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3 minutes ago, Mikepunn said:

Hi tracy, i have all the kit somewhere in my garage for refitting pistons but not to hand.

I think your right about the sticking (bent valve) but all looks good at the moment until I strip the head down to investigate it further.

The pump appears good and the skew gear pushes up and locks into place, the slotted drive is undamaged apart from some scoring on the top that I'll file away. It seems like it never slotted into place. I put some oil down the supply channel to the rocker on the cylinder head and this didn't seem to move down, maybe a non return valve of some sort close to the pump. 

The injectors are defiantly not original, looking on eBay I have come across the exact ones that are fitted at the moment. If you could take a look and tell me what you think, the one on the right is the ones that are on it and the one on the left I found in the engine room, I have the other 3. Also could anyone advise me as to what way around the atomization washers go or doesn't it really matter. Cheers 

16069175452621322723856.jpg

I have seen the ones on the left fitted to BMCs but never seen the one on the right but suspect its the cap and adjuster that has been modified to save materiel. I suspect, but don't know, it is adjustable.

 

to my eyes the length of the nozzle of the one on the right looks longer than the one on the left. that is why I suggested a top to toe view with the nozzles side by side so we could easily judge the relative length.

 

I cant see the end of the nozzles so can't tell if they are pintle or pintaux.

2 minutes ago, bizzard said:

If the head has shallow chambers where the valve heads are ''can't remember'' turn the head upside down and pour paraffin, white spirit into each. if any valve is leaking by it will make itself obvious by dripping from and intake port or exhaust port

thee head do not have valve recesses apart from what the seat gives or any cause by valve regression.

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Check the oil pump drives under load when you turn the engine over before you go too far, it is not unusual for the skew gear to strip in one part and loose drive on the jack shaft.

The camshaft can also strip, I suggest you remove the jack shaft and get a torch and a mirror up there soon!

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9 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Check the oil pump drives under load when you turn the engine over before you go too far, it is not unusual for the skew gear to strip in one part and loose drive on the jack shaft.

The camshaft can also strip, I suggest you remove the jack shaft and get a torch and a mirror up there soon!

Especially if the skew gear oil jet and strainer have not been cleaned in an age. However if its the teeth on the camshaft I think the injection pump drive would also be in trouble - excess back lash at least. If the engine is still in the boat ( I think the OP said that) maybe take the pump and pump drive out plus the triangular pump mounting plate and \i think you could get a look at the camshaft skew gear.

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19 minutes ago, bizzard said:

If the head has shallow chambers where the valve heads are ''can't remember'' turn the head upside down and pour paraffin, white spirit into each. if any valve is leaking by it will make itself obvious by dripping from and intake port or exhaust port

Good idea cheers, I noticed after removing an inlet and exhaust valve that the inlet is missing the splash guard but has a rubber type oil seal and o ring on top and the exhaust has a splash guard and only an o ring. Is this correct? 

 

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22 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

The one on the left with the big domed top cap is the BMC injector.  If you look at the end you will see the side hole of the pinteaux port as well as the central fragile pin..

 

The other is wrong, it is too long on the part that goes into the head and may well have wrecked the top hat heat shields that are down that hole.

 

Check very carefully as if damaged the bits will be in the Ricardo chambers in the head, until they drop out into the cylinder when you have rebuilt the engine..............................

 

The manual I sent you will show the washers and heat shields and how they fit.

 

 

Thanks, I looked at the nozzles and they appear the same but closer inspection shows the second hole on the non genuine injector to be a fake hole. Looks like its been marked with a centre punch, I thought they wasn't right because the fuel pipes seemed to be under a lot of stress and very close to the glow plugs.

 

Unfortunately I can download the manual, but for some reason I can not open the file. Shame I could really do with the manual but looks like I'll be flying blind on this one. I'm not very good with modern computer technology unfortunately.

 

I've removed the injectors and the heat shields seem to be there but extremely squashed and look like standard washers. I did find another set of washers, funny enough a whole set in a bag in the battery tray with oil stem seals.

 

The vales on the offending cylinder seem to be fine but there is some wear on the rocker arm, maybe that's at fault as I don't think that setting the gaps would be very accurite.

 

Thanks for your help and any further advice would be appreciated 

 

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3 minutes ago, Mikepunn said:

Unfortunately I can download the manual, but for some reason I can not open the file.

 

I have both the operators manual and the workshop manual for the 1.5 & 1.8. (Pdf)

 

If you wish to PM me an email address I'll forward ti you and you can se if you can open these ones.

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47 minutes ago, Mikepunn said:

The vales on the offending cylinder seem to be fine but there is some wear on the rocker arm, maybe that's at fault as I don't think that setting the gaps would be very accurite.

 

I would not worry too much about that as long as there is a  small gap there when hot. Its a diesel and any small difference to the valve timing caused by the wrong gap is unlikely to have any noticeably effect on performance - unlike if the gap disappears totally and wrecks the compression. The worst you will notice, if you can hear it, is a bit of tappet chatter.

47 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

I have both the operators manual and the workshop manual for the 1.5 & 1.8. (Pdf)

 

If you wish to PM me an email address I'll forward ti you and you can se if you can open these ones.

I am wondering if the OP's phone/computer does not have the necessary software to open PDFs.

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A further thought.

 

Pintaux nozzles have a little nipple on the end around the pintle. Pintle nozzles do not have such a nipple and the face is perfectly flat so i don't see how a false hole could be applied.  BMC 1.5s have a nasty habit of blocking that small hole with carbon and it is exceptionally difficult to remove so maybe the hole is not false but just blocked solid.

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Well I put the engine back together and fired it up, loads of smoke from the exhaust of all colors. Now I noticed there is excessive blow by when I opened the filler cap to inspect oil flow. I am pretty sure the engine has overheated as after starting I went to sit in the boat to get warm for 15\20 minutes and came out to smoke from the raw water cooling outlet thanks to a 30p plastic co-op bag blocking the inlet. I had to remove the clear cylinder thing and pull the bag through the pipe.

 

The blow by was present after putting it back together again so makes me think that there might be an issue with the head gasket not sealing correctly, possibly exhaust gases leaking through into the push rod chambers. I'm just letting it cool down for a bit before starting it again. Anyone have any other ideas as to the blow by issue?

 

I've noticed that the breather on the tappet cover has been filled in with some sort of putty for some reason ? so I have removed that and connected a hose but oil sprays out with the blow by. 

 

This engine seems to me like it hates me for some reason but the good news is the chuffing noise has gone, I did remove the inlet valve and cleaned the tiny bit of carbon from it and used toothpaste and crushed coal to get it to seat better (I know I should use the proper stuff but it worked) using my cordless drill on a low speed.

 

Maybe the injectors I refitted are bad but I'm pretty sure the engine started smoking the same just before I noticed the oil supply issue. Maybe the fuel pump has moved or needs adjusting.

 

Any ideas ? 

 

 

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Although one can never be sure and if you did reuse the old gasket I suppose your theory about the gasket leaking combustion gasses into the push rod drilling's might be correct but I doubt it. I fear you have bought, as someone said, a paint bush overhaul but without any painting.

 

If the injection timing was far enough advanced to cause  excess piston blow by I would expect it would be very difficult to start with combustion trying to blow the pistons back down the compression stroke. In any case I am not sure there is enough adjustment for that unless the drive gear was fitted incorrectly.

 

You seem to be asking for potential diagnosis without enough info and with you trying not to work to good standards. What I mean by that is the refitting injectors you have no idea about without getting them tested. not reporting back on the state of the skew gears on the oil pump drive, injector pump drive and camshaft (wear there may well retard the injection and allow it to jump about all over the place at idle). No report on the skew gear oil jet and strainer from which we MIGHT have been able to infer the state of the skew gears. I don't think you provided a tabulated list of the compression test results, only the one being 30 psi less so we can't guess at the state of the pistons etc.

 

In fact we can't even be sure the valve timing is correct or what state the timing chain and tensioner is in.

 

Now you say its raw water cooled. If its direct raw water cooled (no coolant filler for the engine) then forget BMCs and look for an engine that was actually designed for direct raw water cooling and that means a genuine marine engine. Look for a direct raw water cooled Bukh. This will make fitting nearly any engine time consuming and difficult. I just hope you mean indirect raw water/heat  exchanger cooling then things will be easier.

 

I can guess that you don't want to hear this but I think you are faced with a lot of time and cost to get this engine in good order.

 

Edited to add. I fear this mat come across as a bit harsh on you, its not supposed to and I am sure we can all understand any desire you have to avoid expense, especially having forked out for this engine.  But if this were mine I would have had it out, drawn the pistons, measured the bores and crank journals and checked the head and block face for any distortion at the very least. I would also have drawn the camshaft just to be sure the skew gear is OK. I would have sent the injectors and pump for testing. Only then as you rebuild can you be sure that each part is as it should be but all that is not cheap, especially as it probably needs re-boring and new pistons. If you cut corners you have no way of knowing what is serviceable and what is not.

 

 

 

Edited by Tony Brooks
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Yep, it sounds like a complete dog.  Do you now have oil going where it should?

 

The blow by will be pistons/bores. What was the wear ring like at the top of the bores?

 

The fact that the breather has been deliberately blocked means its been knackered for a while, Someone has done that for a reason, i.e. 'cos its being spewing oil out.

 

'fraid you have bought a lemon.

 

Either thrash in the hope (vain ) that it gets better or replace it.

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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

 

In fact we can't even be sure the valve timing is correct or what state the timing chain and tensioner is in.

 

 

As some who in their youth got it wrong by one tooth I was going to mention that, The engine started and ran reasonably well but it wouldn't go.

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Hi again everyone.

 

I would just like to add that I am not a mechanic and never really have been, in the past I have stripped my own engines down and repaired them myself and have never really worked off any type of manual. (I find them confusing although helpful for torque settings) everyone's right, I don't think my phones compatible with PDF.

 

I have had a lot of success with all types of engines and have a certain attitude, if I think it can be fixed then I'll spend my time on it and will not stop till it is. When i open an engine up i can put it back exactly as I took it apart and think along the lines of,  if it looks broken, replace it. I seem to enjoy stripping stuff and putting it back together but don't seem to think going at it full on is the way forward. (I'd just be opening up a can of worms)

On 03/12/2020 at 09:20, Tony Brooks said:

Although one can never be sure and if you did reuse the old gasket I suppose your theory about the gasket leaking combustion gasses into the push rod drilling's might be correct but I doubt it. I fear you have bought, as someone said, a paint bush overhaul but without any painting.

 

If the injection timing was far enough advanced to cause  excess piston blow by I would expect it would be very difficult to start with combustion trying to blow the pistons back down the compression stroke. In any case I am not sure there is enough adjustment for that unless the drive gear was fitted incorrectly.

 

You seem to be asking for potential diagnosis without enough info and with you trying not to work to good standards. What I mean by that is the refitting injectors you have no idea about without getting them tested. not reporting back on the state of the skew gears on the oil pump drive, injector pump drive and camshaft (wear there may well retard the injection and allow it to jump about all over the place at idle). No report on the skew gear oil jet and strainer from which we MIGHT have been able to infer the state of the skew gears. I don't think you provided a tabulated list of the compression test results, only the one being 30 psi less so we can't guess at the state of the pistons etc.

 

In fact we can't even be sure the valve timing is correct or what state the timing chain and tensioner is in.

 

Now you say its raw water cooled. If its direct raw water cooled (no coolant filler for the engine) then forget BMCs and look for an engine that was actually designed for direct raw water cooling and that means a genuine marine engine. Look for a direct raw water cooled Bukh. This will make fitting nearly any engine time consuming and difficult. I just hope you mean indirect raw water/heat  exchanger cooling then things will be easier.

 

I can guess that you don't want to hear this but I think you are faced with a lot of time and cost to get this engine in good order.

 

Edited to add. I fear this mat come across as a bit harsh on you, its not supposed to and I am sure we can all understand any desire you have to avoid expense, especially having forked out for this engine.  But if this were mine I would have had it out, drawn the pistons, measured the bores and crank journals and checked the head and block face for any distortion at the very least. I would also have drawn the camshaft just to be sure the skew gear is OK. I would have sent the injectors and pump for testing. Only then as you rebuild can you be sure that each part is as it should be but all that is not cheap, especially as it probably needs re-boring and new pistons. If you cut corners you have no way of knowing what is serviceable and what is not.

 

 

 

Tony, in no way do I think any comments to be harsh and any help I receive I appreciate and I take your advice very seriously. Your comment about the injectors is true I do not know the condition of them, but as they only take 10 minutes to swap around I couldn't see the harm in trying them. I know the set that was on it when I purchased the boat are a new set and speaking to the previous owner the supplier claims they are pre-set to spec for this engine in the factory, although searching on the net 'BOSH' do not make these injectors (copyright issue I think). I will send the original injectors off to be reconditioned very soon, in fact if anyone could recommend someone I'll be more then happy to use them?. 

 

I did not mention the compression test results as there are mixed views of what they should actually be and researching makes me think mine are very low but no one can really confirm what they should be, results from gearbox to pulley side are 225, 222.5 , 225 and 195 psi according to my tester although it might not be accurate as its an old one I paid £20 for and only goes to 350 psi. Seeing as the 1st three cylinders seem pretty even I wouldn't expect them to be a problem. Then it goes back to to oval shaped cylinder I bought up. (eyes might be playing tricks) The engine starts fine straight away on the key with or without glow plugs, could you explain how advanced timing could cause this blow by please because I do believe its something to consider ? 

 

The oil pump seems to be working fine now, I've got oil to the rockers and the red colour in the cylinder head has a nice coating of oil all over it, in fact it seems like too much oil reaching the rockers (it could be the blow by pushing oil up instead of letting it fall back into the sump). It did take me a bit of time to find the oil pressure relief valve and that was fine.(its located under the right tappet cover and is a dome shaped bolt) I couldn't inspect the skew gear on the oil pump drive as the engines quite close to the floor and didn't know there there was skew gear oil strainers till now (not enough space to get my head under) although I did clean out the mesh things I pulled out while looking for the oil pressure relief valve. The strainers were not to bad to be fair and didn't seem blocked but I cleaned them anyway.

 

The engine is direct water cooled, it takes the water from the canal and dumps it back into the canal, the pump (can't remember the name) upon inspection the impellor seems to be knackered, the rubber fins cracked probably reducing water flow through the engine resulting in the engine overheating and also the heat exchanger (whatever it is) for the gearbox oil was blocked with leaves. I also noticed last night when starting that the pulley seems to turn on the shaft for the water pump and is not turning the impellor (I ordered impellor) upon closer inspection the retaining bolt that locks the pulley to the shaft is broken so that has to be removed and repaired. If you say that the BMC is not made for direct raw water cooling then the setup for the engine is substandard and either I have to replace it or get it working as it was originally installed. I would rather replace the engine then mess about flogging a dead horse

 

I have had the timing chain cover off and the timing chain and tensioner are new and line up perfectly (old ones in the box I found in the engine room) you are 100% right I don't want to go throwing money at it if its is a lemon. 

 

I do believe its a lemon but sometimes there are simple things that cause these problems and I don't want to kick myself for going full on with the engine and rebuild it as I know its had new big end bearings, rings, timing chain and tensioner, injectors, belts and gaskets.

 

On 03/12/2020 at 09:38, Tracy D'arth said:

Yep, it sounds like a complete dog.  Do you now have oil going where it should?

 

The blow by will be pistons/bores. What was the wear ring like at the top of the bores?

 

The fact that the breather has been deliberately blocked means its been knackered for a while, Someone has done that for a reason, i.e. 'cos its being spewing oil out.

 

'fraid you have bought a lemon.

 

Either thrash in the hope (vain ) that it gets better or replace it.

As Tracy says, maybe thrashing the engine and hoping everything settles down is the way forward... I don't know but its worth a try, I only think of the people walking along the canal and other boaters while I'm polluting their air. Personally the smoke does not bother me one bit but I bet I'll get complaints.

 

The lip at the top looks like it was removed using a ridge reaming tool so I know the engines been worked on to some extent, maybe wrong ring gaps or something silly like that. Its easy enough to strip down again and check.

 

I realise the breather would have been blocked for a reason but the putty looked like it had been there 15 years and with the oil filler cap fitted correctly I'm suprised oil isn't leaking everywhere.

 

Should I just fit a vent on the rocker cover and direct it to the air intake a thrash it and see what happens ? Maybe its the running in period because I did find old piston rings on the engine room floor ?  

 

The only symptoms I have now is a decent amount of blow by and diesel smelling whitish grey smoke on start up, dies down as warmed up with an occasional misfire and a lot black smoke while under load that also smells of diesel, i do not think its burning oil at all. Could it be pointing towards something as simple as a fuel pump issue, either failing or misaligned ? Or the excess crap burning off that's been dumped in the exhaust previously.

 

Thank you all very much, all is appreciated

 

Soon I'll be an expert at BMC engines and will be able to take the 1.5 apart and put it back together again with my eyes closed. I really think its something really silly that I'm missing.

Edited by Mikepunn
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On 03/12/2020 at 10:38, ditchcrawler said:

As some who in their youth got it wrong by one tooth I was going to mention that, The engine started and ran reasonably well but it wouldn't go.

Would one tooth be noticeable or would it look right but isnt? If you know what I mean. Seems like same symptoms but this one has plenty of power

 

 

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I think that the compressions are at least 100 psi too low but if it has really been overhauled the rings may not yet be making a good seal onto the cylinder walls. Maybe a good thrash will help it bed in but ..........

 

The maximum pressure variation between cylinders is typicality about 10% so number one looks rather poor to me but see above.

 

Luckily a 1.5 is easy to pump time as long as the camshaft and pump drive is not worn and no one has altered the setting pointer that is located on the triangular mounting plate that the pump fits onto. However if the  pump drive has been taken out it may have  gone back in the wrong position but to check you need to take the pump off and read the manual so you know where the timing marks are and what position the drive of has to be in before refitting the pump. Personally I doubt it would start if it was one tooth advanced and would be totally gutless and smokey if one tooth retarded. However if the skew gears are worn all bets are off, the timing would be all over the place.

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8 hours ago, Mikepunn said:

Would one tooth be noticeable or would it look right but isnt? If you know what I mean. Seems like same symptoms but this one has plenty of power

 

 

Well I am not a mechanic either and I didn't notice I had the valve timing out, lining the dots on the sprockets up, but a mechanic rightly suspected that was the problem.  I still wonder where your sparks came from, if it was a bit of ring giving lower compression and blowpass I would have expected to see some bore damage 

 

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15 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

I think that the compressions are at least 100 psi too low but if it has really been overhauled the rings may not yet be making a good seal onto the cylinder walls. Maybe a good thrash will help it bed in but ..........

 

The maximum pressure variation between cylinders is typicality about 10% so number one looks rather poor to me but see above.

 

Luckily a 1.5 is easy to pump time as long as the camshaft and pump drive is not worn and no one has altered the setting pointer that is located on the triangular mounting plate that the pump fits onto. However if the  pump drive has been taken out it may have  gone back in the wrong position but to check you need to take the pump off and read the manual so you know where the timing marks are and what position the drive of has to be in before refitting the pump. Personally I doubt it would start if it was one tooth advanced and would be totally gutless and smokey if one tooth retarded. However if the skew gears are worn all bets are off, the timing would be all over the place.

Hi tony, I thought the compressions to be too low, the rings have definitely been overhauled so maybe it is just a case of bedding them into the cylinder walls. At the rate the boat moves and the fact the engine is never really put through its paces I worry it will take a few years.

 

One thing I noticed is the engine block is gold and the fuel injection pump is blue so assume a second hand pump has been installed at some point. Looking at it carefully it doesn't look like its been messed with recently and the scribe marks do line up.

 

I will get my son to download and print the manual for me as soon as possible as computers and phones are not my strong point.

 

The 1st thing I'm going to try tomorrow is a fuel system cleaner directly into the fuel filter and give it a good high dose, unless anyone can think of a reason not to? There doesn't appear to be a return on the fuel system back to the tank, it terminates at the big fuel filter. If that fails i will try the pump thing, move it around by 1degree (hit and miss) and see if it gets any better.

 

Oh another thing tony, is there an easy way of inspecting the skew gears or is it a case of stripping the engine down to look? At the moment I'm kind of worried about removing the fuel injection pump because apparently the tool to realign the pump doesn't seem to be available any more.

 

11 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

I still wonder where your sparks came from, if it was a bit of ring giving lower compression and blowpass I would have expected to see some bore damage 

 

 

The sparks I believe to be the caked on crap from inside the exhaust igniting when the engines warmed up as it did it again today, in fact it didn't stop for some 15 minutes and a few passers by stopped to enjoy the show and others looked to be diving for cover.

 

To be honest I was shocked to find no damage to the cylinder bores or the pistons. I was expecting everything to be a right mess with bits of rings everywhere after the chuff noise started but surprisingly it looks fine, even the cross hatching is visible on the cylinder walls.

 

 

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