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How much pitting is okay? Merged with Boat Survey


Lisahall24

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1 hour ago, matty40s said:

Nothing in that survey says it would be uninsurable fully comp, however, if the survey is several years old, things may have got worse since then. 

It also doesnt read as needing complete overplating.

One of the worst areas for corrosion could be under the rubbing strakes, never dries out completely so the rust just eats away.

 

Am I missing something?  What? Where? ?

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14 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

The survey says corrosion behind the rubbing strakes.

 

 

image.jpeg

Thank you. Apart from the rubbing strakes I wouldnt be concerned particularly by what is shown. (Depending when this survey was carried out) I'd want those repairing though so removal of line-out and insulation in the area. And I'd want then fully welded not tacked.  Why do people even do that? 

Edited by Ally
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13 hours ago, matty40s said:

Most earlier boats, (Harborough Marine, Fernie, Springers etc)were built out of 5mm steel, ans it was good steel,  they are probably 40 plus years old now, so 1mm loss isnt much.

 

I thought Springers were made from 4mm steel (or an imperial equivalent), not 5mm? Mine started out at 4mm according to the survey I commissioned anyway.

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The dark colour of the water in the bilge could indicate that it has come in via the stern gland, rather than rainwater. Whilst this may be a case of packing or adjustment, the recent engine work would normally mean these would have been done recently. Wear in the shaft and bearing is an expensive repair, not the end of the world but certainly requires an adjustment of the price.

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8 hours ago, Ally said:

Thank you. Apart from the rubbing strakes I wouldnt be concerned particularly by what is shown. (Depending when this survey was carried out) I'd want those repairing though so removal of line-out and insulation in the area. And I'd want then fully welded not tacked.  Why do people even do that? 

Simple cost/time solution for a budget leisure boat that started out straight, and probablybwasnt supposed to last for 50 years

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IMHO as said by others a 1mm loss over this amount of time doesn't seem too much to worry about.

 

Now if you get it for 30K cash and spend 3K patching up and epoxy coating the hull, you might have yourself a nice boat.

 

My only concern would be staring at the toilet all day.

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17 hours ago, Lisahall24 said:

The boat is 1996 David Clark.  So will this need replateing? If so, any idea of approximate costs?  It’s a 50ft boat. 

Lisa,

 

When people post a question like yours, it is quite usual for some people to inflate minor issues into major issues, because they "might be", (and they "might" be right). If it "needs" overplating now, it actually "needed" overplating when it was built, and it's amazing that it is still floating a quarter of a century later.

 

This looks like a boat that was built with a 6mm bottom and 5mm sides, and there is up to a millimetre less metal in some areas than when it was built. Having said that, he also says that the initial thicknesses were nominal, so it may actually have been thinner than 6mm and 5mm when built.

 

The surveyors recommendations are that the boat be washed, rubbed down at the waterline to remove the rust, and blacked. There may be more recommendations on the next page but, the fact that you haven't posted it suggests not. Had the surveyor been concerned about the thicknesses and pitting, he would have recommended more.

 

There might be some major rust behind the rubbing strakes, but there might not be. In the picture posted by matty, the rust is obvious below the strake.

 

So.... overall, quite a good survey where a few things might warrant closer looking at, but nothing to put you off.

 

My caveats would be:

 

1) The bit of the date we can see on the survey looks like it is not recent, and is not your own survey... it also seems quite sparse, so I would assume that there are several ore pages with more detail?       You shouldn't buy the boat without having your own survey. When was the survey carried out?

 

2) There have been some people who have had difficulty getting insurance on boats with thinner hulls, so it is probable that people will be wary of thinner hulls. There is also a strong chance that buyers who ask questions in canal boat forums will be steered away from thinner hulls, even if they are likely to last 75 years or so before needing any real attention :) . Thus, you might want to be ultra careful and avoid boats that started with thinner hulls. Mine was 10mm base, 6mm sides, 4mm top.

 

It would be interesting to hear from owners here with "thin hulled" Springers and the like, and their experiences of insurance?

 

 

  • Greenie 2
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8 hours ago, blackrose said:

I thought Springers were made from 4mm steel (or an imperial equivalent), not 5mm? Mine started out at 4mm according to the survey I commissioned anyway.

Mine was 3/16" plate, when selling it the surveyor tried to tell his client it had lost 0.25mm, I did laugh and corrected him.

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