Advice on refitting interior woodwork etc if anybody has any? :)

[Murflynn]

51 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

 

Personally I would not use ordinary CLS timber behind the panelling. I would use treated timber to be at least a little bit more damp/rot resistant. If it can't be see ordinary treated sawn timber should be OK for behind the panels.

 

 

B&Q sell treated CLS, so I suppose it's available anywhere.

 

I use nothing else for basic carpentry work in the boat, at home in the house and in the garden.  Generally cheap, straight, minimum knots, rarely split (check each piece if buying in person).

[Tracy D'arth]

1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:

i got the impression they are wooden window frames because she said she w s making square frames  but then Dolly might be talking about framing around the inside of the window aperture.

I too assume she is talking about the interior window liners as she mentioned the curved triangles. We would seem to be right Tony.

[Dolly P.]

8 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

i got the impression they are wooden window frames because she said she w s making square frames  but then Dolly might be talking about framing around the inside of the window aperture.

Oh yes, Sorry Tony, I did mean the inside window frames. The exterior windows themselves are aluminium. 

[Tony Brooks]

If you don't have access to a band saw or a suitable jigsaw to make those little corner pieces I would get a decent hole saw the same radius as the  rounded bit, then cut a square of timber where if the hole saw was drilled into the centre the saw would almost to the edges. Mark the centre and start drilling. You may have to turn the wood over and drill from the other side. Then a few strokes with a saw and file and you will have four corner pieces. I suspect this may be more accurate and easier for an amateur rather than a jig or band saw.

[Dolly P.]

15 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

If you don't have access to a band saw or a suitable jigsaw to make those little corner pieces I would get a decent hole saw the same radius as the  rounded bit, then cut a square of timber where if the hole saw was drilled into the centre the saw would almost to the edges. Mark the centre and start drilling. You may have to turn the wood over and drill from the other side. Then a few strokes with a saw and file and you will have four corner pieces. I suspect this may be more accurate and easier for an amateur rather than a jig or band saw.

Oh okay, i will give that a go! Could i make them out of ply do you reckon? as i dont want them as deep as the rest of the frame...

[Tony Brooks]

30 minutes ago, Dolly P. said:

Oh okay, i will give that a go! Could i make them out of ply do you reckon? as i dont want them as deep as the rest of the frame...

As they are libel to get wet from condensation I would be reluctant to use any ply that is easy to get. Even so called marine ply tends to be full of voids and filler. I think I would try to find some hard wood but not oak. Oak goes black when in contact with iron. Good quality soft wood would probably be OK as long as you paint/varnish it very thoroughly before fitting and the do the exposed surfaces every few years. you can probably "glue" them to the steel and the frame with the adhesive mentioned above.

[dmr]

2 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Er, Die not dye!

If the holes are too big I would drill and tap fresh ones if at all possible, Neoprene tape will blank out the old ones.  Is there a fill strip in the aluminium window that covers the screws? If so you will not see the old holes after.

Tapped holes are the way to go. Your steel is likely 4mm so will easily take up to a 6mm thread. Invest in some fairly good taps and learn how to do it. Its easy but breaking off a tap can be a right pain. If you need to drill the holes out a bit then make some sort of jig so that you can get the holes at the correct angle, I was going to say square ?.  Just a little square of some sort would be fine.

Dormer do a good set of taps which includes drill bits of the correct size. You are unlikely to need dies on a boat so just get a good set of taps and a nice tap wrench...and some suitable cutting lubricant.

 

................Dave

[Tracy D'arth]

1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

As they are libel to get wet from condensation I would be reluctant to use any ply that is easy to get. Even so called marine ply tends to be full of voids and filler. I think I would try to find some hard wood but not oak. Oak goes black when in contact with iron. Good quality soft wood would probably be OK as long as you paint/varnish it very thoroughly before fitting and the do the exposed surfaces every few years. you can probably "glue" them to the steel and the frame with the adhesive mentioned above.

I have used mahogany, maple, sycamore, & ash for trim bits that get damp around doors and windows.

Forget plies, even good birch ply, and any composites like chipboard (weetabix) and MDF no matter what it says on the tin. They have no place in boats.

For supplies of hardwoods I buy old furniture from auctions for next to nothing, no body wants that solid mahogany table any more sadly, so I cut them up.

 

Varnish the inside of all panelling totally before fixing with spirit based varnish with a high VOC rating, none of the water based muck that they sell in the DIY sheds, Ronseal still make some proper polyurethane varnish 

If it says wash brushes with detergent and water, .......  don't buy it.......!

[Richard T]

For all the timber that is concealed I would use tanalised or similar. I would not rely on self treated softwood. It doesn't matter if its rough sawn if it is to be hidden. 38x25mm fixed to the steel stiffeners should be adequate. Celotex and Kingspan are similar products just different manufacturers and there are others.

If you are going to install a stove do not put ply behind it. You need an airgap and then calcium silicate board. There is guidance here http://www.soliftec.com/boat stoves 1-page.pdf

[Tracy D'arth]

9 minutes ago, dmr said:

Tapped holes are the way to go. Your steel is likely 4mm so will easily take up to a 6mm thread. Invest in some fairly good taps and learn how to do it. Its easy but breaking off a tap can be a right pain. If you need to drill the holes out a bit then make some sort of jig so that you can get the holes at the correct angle, I was going to say square ?.  Just a little square of some sort would be fine.

Dormer do a good set of taps which includes drill bits of the correct size. You are unlikely to need dies on a boat so just get a good set of taps and a nice tap wrench...and some suitable cutting lubricant.

 

................Dave

Engineers suppliers will sell good quality taps in singles, you only need a first cut and maybe a second of the size of machine screws you are using, not a full set of ones you will never use. DIY shed stuff, and Screwfix etc. will not be the best, buy the engineer's stuff.  Same with twist drills,  good ones do break if misused, cheap rubbish breaks all the time, spoils the job and wastes your time

[dmr]

5 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Engineers suppliers will sell good quality taps in singles, you only need a first cut and maybe a second of the size of machine screws you are using, not a full set of ones you will never use. DIY shed stuff, and Screwfix etc. will not be the best, buy the engineer's stuff.  Same with twist drills,  good ones do break if misused, cheap rubbish breaks all the time, spoils the job and wastes your time

I would not argue with this. I have a boxed set of taps and they have done pretty well (none broken and cut a lot of new threads into steel) and I have actually used most if not all of the sizes (m3 to m12). Never understood why there are three taps of each size though. They look to be a first, a second, and something in between ?. I reckon a first cut, then as close to a plug/bottoming as possible would be better. I would suggest a wrench from an engineering supplier rather than eBay ?. I have a lot of Screwfix drill bits for day to day bodging and a better set for engineering, but you might well be right that the cheap ones are a waste of time, even the bigger ones break.

Trouble is that some of the "good stuff" is not always as good as it should be, a lot likely comes from China these days..

 

Avoid "repair taps".

 

.............Dave

[Tony Brooks]

9 hours ago, dmr said:

I would not argue with this. I have a boxed set of taps and they have done pretty well (none broken and cut a lot of new threads into steel) and I have actually used most if not all of the sizes (m3 to m12). Never understood why there are three taps of each size though. They look to be a first, a second, and something in between ?. I reckon a first cut, then as close to a plug/bottoming as possible would be better. I would suggest a wrench from an engineering supplier rather than eBay ?. I have a lot of Screwfix drill bits for day to day bodging and a better set for engineering, but you might well be right that the cheap ones are a waste of time, even the bigger ones break.

Trouble is that some of the "good stuff" is not always as good as it should be, a lot likely comes from China these days..

 

Avoid "repair taps".

 

.............Dave

Needed for tapping blind holes - holes that the tap can't poke out the other end.

 

As long as the tap can go right through the cabin side Polly will get away with just a first cut. These are very tapered so unless you screw it thorough the cabin side up to the shank some of the threads will be hardly cut at all.

 

Second cut still tapered but not as much as first cut so it is easier to start in a part thread the first cut tap in a blind hole has formed.

 

Plug taps are not tapered so in a blind hole they will finish the part threads left by the second cut all but to the bottom of the hole.

 

Polly, don't just by the taps, buy a few tapping size drills. They are in the main  funny sizes and the readily available 0.5mm step drills will often either make the tap difficult to start and libel to snap (hole too small) or not be able to cut a full depth thread (hole too large).

[Jen-in-Wellies]

45 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

don't just by the taps, buy a few tapping size drills. They are in the main  funny sizes and the readily available 0.5mm step drills will often either make the tap difficult to start and libel to snap (hole too small) or not be able to cut a full depth thread (hole too large).

A link to the tap drill sizes you need for each metric tap. Just ask for an appropriate drill bit for the tap when you buy. Use the Course Thread table, as these are the common metric thread nuts and bolts you buy. Fine threads exist, but aren't common and are used for specialist things.

Jen