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Remove back boiler Morso sq 1410?


WabiSabi

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hey all, we have a constant kettling going on with our back boiler and have decided that with a 2 yr old on board we arent gonna mess around risking it going bang.

i would like to remove the back boiler and re-plum the pipes back into its old circuit.

does anyone have any advice on which replacement parts id need to buy to return the burner to its original condition? baffle, back plate?

thanks in adnvanced all :D

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When I first commissioned my Morso I did so without fitting the back boiler as the rads etc had not been installed. To blank off the holes in the backplate.  I simply used  4 ? mm plate  either side of the holes bedded on fireclay and through bolted. When I got around to fitting the back boiler it was simple to cut the bolts with a grinder . Obviously when I ran without the boiler I fitted the appropriate back fire brick

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It will be a pig of a job getting the back boiler out!

I would leave the tank in place in and only disconnect the two water pipes at the back.

Vacuum out as much water from the tank as you can, but do not blank them off as the last dregs of water in them need time to evaporate.

Also leaving the old tank in there, you will not need a new baffle plate or anything else.

Just keep using the stove as before, but with no water going through it.

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1 hour ago, WabiSabi said:

hey all, we have a constant kettling going on with our back boiler and have decided that with a 2 yr old on board we arent gonna mess around risking it going bang.

i would like to remove the back boiler and re-plum the pipes back into its old circuit.

does anyone have any advice on which replacement parts id need to buy to return the burner to its original condition? baffle, back plate?

thanks in adnvanced all :D

 

If you're sure and you've already tried to bleed the system thoroughly and had no success, the good news is - it will come out through the front. You'll have to remove the fire bricks and the centre riddling grate. You may find the boiler is seated in a cement and it will need to be chipped away at either side of the boiler. Once you have released the boiler from the fittings at the back, it is a case of working the boiler free, using every tactic you can think of. I'm not sure if you will need to remove the flue to get access to the above section of the boiler. I changed my boiler at the same time I was replacing the flue, so I did it with the flue off. But better to try and pry the boiler loose than using too much hammer; the casing of the stove is cast iron and could fracture. 

 

Can't help much with the blanking of the holes after boiler removal. If you leave the boiler in, some people say you can fill the boiler with sand, seems like a good idea, but I can't confirm that in practice. And don't seal the pipes at the back, if you do leave the boiler in and disconnected from the water system.  

 

 

Edited by Higgs
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1 hour ago, Slim said:

When I first commissioned my Morso I did so without fitting the back boiler as the rads etc had not been installed. To blank off the holes in the backplate.  I simply used  4 ? mm plate  either side of the holes bedded on fireclay and through bolted. When I got around to fitting the back boiler it was simple to cut the bolts with a grinder . Obviously when I ran without the boiler I fitted the appropriate back fire brick

Oh ...... I need more info please, I have a back boiler, a big chunk of firebrick fell out, should I leave it or replace it?

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8 hours ago, Higgs said:

 

If you're sure and you've already tried to bleed the system thoroughly and had no success, the good news is - it will come out through the front. You'll have to remove the fire bricks and the centre riddling grate. You may find the boiler is seated in a cement and it will need to be chipped away at either side of the boiler. Once you have released the boiler from the fittings at the back, it is a case of working the boiler free, using every tactic you can think of. I'm not sure if you will need to remove the flue to get access to the above section of the boiler. I changed my boiler at the same time I was replacing the flue, so I did it with the flue off. But better to try and pry the boiler loose than using too much hammer; the casing of the stove is cast iron and could fracture. 

 

Can't help much with the blanking of the holes after boiler removal. If you leave the boiler in, some people say you can fill the boiler with sand, seems like a good idea, but I can't confirm that in practice. And don't seal the pipes at the back, if you do leave the boiler in and disconnected from the water system.  

 

 

Would this be the job for the back instead of blanking up the pipe holes?

Or did you find it easy enough with other means?

https://www.morsosparesdirect.co.uk/shop/morso-squirrel-multi-fuel-stove/morso-squirrel-1410/morso-squirrel-1410-back-plate/

44140521.jpg

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3 hours ago, WabiSabi said:

Would this be the job for the back instead of blanking up the pipe holes?

Or did you find it easy enough with other means?

https://www.morsosparesdirect.co.uk/shop/morso-squirrel-multi-fuel-stove/morso-squirrel-1410/morso-squirrel-1410-back-plate/

44140521.jpg

Much easier (and cheaper) to blank off the holes than to completely dismantle in order to swap the back panel.

Use big penny washers (repair washers) inside and out for each hole, and seal them in with Envirograf high temp sealant.  Put the nuts on the outside in case you need to refit a boiler sometime.

 

N

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15 hours ago, LadyG said:

Oh ...... I need more info please, I have a back boiler, a big chunk of firebrick fell out, should I leave it or replace it?

The backboiler model has firebricks at the sides only.  The bricks protect the side panels from the direct heat of a large fire  so I would replace the broken firebrick  but the urgency depends on how hard you fire the stove and how big the chunk is.

You might be able to make a temporary repair by sticking the broken firebrick together with fire cement.

 

N

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I did this job in reverse for a 1410 Squirrel stove. Fitting a back boiler to a non back boiler stove. Going in your direction, once the back boiler is removed, you'll need to blank off the holes for the pipes. Various suggestions in this thread. After that you will definitely need a fire brick to protect the cast iron back plate. In addition, non boiler Squirrels have a cast iron baffle plate, which is a similar shape to the angled top part of the back boiler. A complete kit, with all three fire bricks, rear and each side, plus the baffle here. Having new side fire bricks available too is a good idea as there is a reasonable chance you'll break the other ones getting them out to free the back boiler. The other suggestion, of draining the back boiler, leaving it unsealed and filling with sand was done by a friend and worked well for several years, until he sold the boat and is by far the easiest.

 

Jen

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