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I've dropped a spanner on my engine....


Jeffyjeff

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6 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:

 

I'm not sure you could manage to shear a hardened steel extractor in a brass fitting.

 

But if there's any group of people on the planet who could they're likely to be on this forum ...

Is that a challenge? I think I broke a tap in Ali once so I have experience of these things.....and I have broken loads of Screwfix drill bits, I broke one in wood.

 

..............Dave

10 minutes ago, Quattrodave said:

Fair point, TBH most of the that sort of work I do is in a workshop not wedged in an engine bay. The less protruding the bolt is, the better. Generally I'd cut it off flush before welding. Never done a brass one, I see no reason why I couldn't braze a brass nut on, done a few aluminium ones over the years tho...

Aluminium bolts?,,,,thats asking for trouble, barely qualifies as a metal ?

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1 hour ago, TheBiscuits said:

 

I did qualify the statement! Are you on this forum?

 

There's a phrase for those who regularly abuse tools beyond their breaking point ...

 

 

The Screwfix drill bits break well before their breaking point, that's why they sell them in packs of ten ?

 

...................Dave

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3 minutes ago, dmr said:

The Screwfix drill bits break well before their breaking point, that's why they sell them in packs of ten ?

 

...................Dave

I wouldn't go near metal with a Screwfix drill, wood maybe but metal, no. ?. The only problem is that these days finding a quality tool is becoming much more difficult. I recently bought some Dormer branded 5mm drills. Spaghetti would have been more effective. When I looked at them closely they were stamped "made i Brazil". My 40 year old set (6 - 10 mm in .1 mm steps) of Dormers are in a totally different league.  

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8 minutes ago, Slim said:

I wouldn't go near metal with a Screwfix drill, wood maybe but metal, no. ?. The only problem is that these days finding a quality tool is becoming much more difficult. I recently bought some Dormer branded 5mm drills. Spaghetti would have been more effective. When I looked at them closely they were stamped "made i Brazil". My 40 year old set (6 - 10 mm in .1 mm steps) of Dormers are in a totally different league.  

I do agree, I needed to drill out some rusted hinge pins on the gas locker lid, they were surface hardened and access was not brilliant. I decided to get several packs of Screwfix drill bits knowing they were going to get abused. Some were blunt, some broke, some did the job. I still think it was the right decision rather than abusing good quality bits. Trouble is I got too many so am still using them up, every time I break one its sort of good news. I also have use of of a 0.1 step set of Dormers and I agree, most are OK but a few are really bad, one is not even straight.

 

...............Dave

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16 hours ago, Jeffyjeff said:

Hi all,

 

I've got an old Lister FR3M - I was recently replacing the impeller and brilliantly dropped my spanner on the engine. In the picture attached the blue arrow shows where I dropped the spanner, and this has caused a rupture in the sealant, meaning when the engine is running it's now pissing water/coolant out of this small hole.

 

The yellow arrow shows a sheared bolt, which has made me very nervous about trying to lift this whole plate off as I don't want to shear all the other bolts off too and cause more problems. Equally I don't want to just seal it up as it is, as I think it'll be a matter of weeks before the water finds its way out again.

 

Has anyone got any ideas or experience in this area?

 

Cheers,

Bex

 

 

Lister.jpg

What's interesting is why you have coolant coming from location shown. Normally below that cover is where the original fuel filter would have been fitted. Also the cover shown does not look original as there would have usually been a raised cast cover fitted.

 

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39 minutes ago, Steve56 said:

What's interesting is why you have coolant coming from location shown. Normally below that cover is where the original fuel filter would have been fitted. Also the cover shown does not look original as there would have usually been a raised cast cover fitted.

 

Info here

https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=5957.0

 

Looks like a common frost failure between filter and block.

Does this engine have an external fuel filter? 

 

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11 hours ago, Quattrodave said:

've never had any luck with easy-outs. Best way I've every found requires a mig welder. Put a nut on top of the broken stud where the inside of the nut closely matches the stud.  Fill it with weld, essentially welding the nut to the broken stud, spray with penetrating oil to cool it, then just wind it out. The rapid heating and cooling usually loosens the thread...

Edited 11 hours ago by Quattrodave

I agree. even if the stud is broken flush with the casting you can build up the stud with weld slowly until there is enough metal to get a mole grip on plus a bit of penetrating oil. Never not worked for me.

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1 hour ago, Loddon said:

Info here

https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=5957.0

 

Looks like a common frost failure between filter and block.

Does this engine have an external fuel filter? 

 

Adam, Bex's boyfriend here.  Thanks for the link - the engine uses an external electric fuel pump and filter, would this indicate that the internal filter would have been removed as it says in the link, or would you expect there to be an additional filter in the engine also?  The leak is definitely not fuel though.

 

Our plan from here is to carefully remove the plate and try address the sheared bolt issue.  From what I can tell, the plate was only ever held down by 4 bolts in a zig zag pattern, but we'll update once we've had a look.

 

Cheers

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all, 

 

I've removed the top plate, underneath was a gasket covering the whole of this opening. You mentioned there might be a fuel filter in here, but it's just full of coolant. 

 

Any ideas if this is normal? Any suggestions on where to buy a gasket? 

 

Cheers, 

Bex

IMG_20201024_124742.jpg

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Gasket sheet material comes in many thicknesses.  In my workshop I have some 2mm thick stuff which would be good for this job.  Hylomar to stick it on would be an excellent addition.  Both sides.

Rubber insertion would also be suitable  but that would not need Hylomar.

 

I would like to see a picture of the joint faces when they are cleaned up, to see if there are any obvious scratches or other damage. When clean and dry a rub over with engineers blue  or a smear of shoe polish followed by a straight edged scraper will show any damage. Clean up with meths, acetone or cellulose thinners.

N

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1 hour ago, BEngo said:

Gasket sheet material comes in many thicknesses.  In my workshop I have some 2mm thick stuff which would be good for this job.  Hylomar to stick it on would be an excellent addition.  Both sides.

Rubber insertion would also be suitable  but that would not need Hylomar.

 

I would like to see a picture of the joint faces when they are cleaned up, to see if there are any obvious scratches or other damage. When clean and dry a rub over with engineers blue  or a smear of shoe polish followed by a straight edged scraper will show any damage. Clean up with meths, acetone or cellulose thinners.

N

Thanks for that tip, after 60 years in the trade I have never heard that one. could be very useful.

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