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Can anybody help me with what Water pump i need?


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Hey Pals, you were all super helpful with everything before! And with my leak off pipes, so i figured, who better to ask? 

I finally got my engine running again after the leak off pipe drama and got to test my Calorifier! 

I ran the engine for about 1hr 45mins and the water was still ice cold.... Is that normal? 

I'm happy to just leave it running longer etc... i just figured i should double check connections etc before waiting 4hrs for something that wont heat up or could potentially cause damage if its incorrectly fitted.... 

 

I've set it up as the MS paint image on the right... and the fitting instruction diagram is on the left. - I was advised to connect the two coils together so that they're both is use.. hence the  diagonally connection situation (we did it this way because the pipe just folded when we tried to connect directly from top to bottom. If your intelligent eyes could just run past this that would be great!

Thank you x

 

 

Calorifier.png

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Should be more than enough time. Have you tried turning the thermostatic mixing valve knob anti-clockwise? Should make it hotter, if the water inside is actually being heated. Another possibility is an air lock in the pipes too/from the engine is preventing the engine coolant from circulating too and from the cauliflower. . Could be worth carefully loosening the top engine connection to the cauliflower to let any air out. Beware that the engine coolant inside will be very hot once the engine has warmed up. Over 80C and can scald.

Jen

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17 minutes ago, Dolly P. said:

Hey Pals, you were all super helpful with everything before! And with my leak off pipes, so i figured, who better to ask? 

I finally got my engine running again after the leak off pipe drama and got to test my Calorifier! 

I ran the engine for about 1hr 45mins and the water was still ice cold.... Is that normal? 

I'm happy to just leave it running longer etc... i just figured i should double check connections etc before waiting 4hrs for something that wont heat up or could potentially cause damage if its incorrectly fitted.... 

 

I've set it up as the MS paint image on the right... and the fitting instruction diagram is on the left. - I was advised to connect the two coils together so that they're both is use.. hence the  diagonally connection situation (we did it this way because the pipe just folded when we tried to connect directly from top to bottom. If your intelligent eyes could just run past this that would be great!

Thank you x

 

 

Calorifier.png

Firstly. Is the engine getting up to normal temperature after running for half hour or so or staying too cool.  Feel the engines coolant top water hose which should be quite hot. The return from the skin tank should be a lot cooler. If the top one is too cool, check the engines thermostat, which housing I think on that engine is on top of the cylinder head which the top hose is attached to,

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21 minutes ago, bizzard said:

Firstly. Is the engine getting up to normal temperature after running for half hour or so or staying too cool.  Feel the engines coolant top water hose which should be quite hot. The return from the skin tank should be a lot cooler. If the top one is too cool, check the engines thermostat, which housing I think on that engine is on top of the cylinder head which the top hose is attached to,

Thank you, what am I checking on the thermostat exactly? The pipe going to the calorifier from the thermostat housing was reasonably warm, the pipe coming out was pretty cool.... The engine runs at about 80 and it was sitting at about 80 for the whole time... ? 

30 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

Should be more than enough time. Have you tried turning the thermostatic mixing valve knob anti-clockwise? Should make it hotter, if the water inside is actually being heated. Another possibility is an air lock in the pipes too/from the engine is preventing the engine coolant from circulating too and from the cauliflower. . Could be worth carefully loosening the top engine connection to the cauliflower to let any air out. Beware that the engine coolant inside will be very hot once the engine has warmed up. Over 80C and can scald.

Jen

Right so that valve.... On the top... I turned it in the direction of hot which I beleive is clockwise? And there was a hell of a lot of twisting away before it stopped... Could it have just been turned all the way down? To like... Off? Do they turn off? 

Edited by Dolly P.
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When the engine is warm, hot water should flow along the small pipe to the calorifier, and the big hoses to the skin tank will be cold, when the engine gets hot the thermostat (sort of inside the engine) will open and hot water will flow through the big hoses to the skin tank where it cools and returns cool water back to the engine.  If the thermostat is stuck open or missing then the engine will not get very warm as when at idle all the engine coolant will pass through the skin tanks so will be dumping all the heat into the canal.

 

so to check.

1) when the engine is too hot to touch the engine pipe to the calorifier should be hot to touch, coming out it should be a bit cooler.  If the engine feed pipe to the calorifier is cold there is a problem

2). The big coolant pipe from the top of the engine going to the skin tank should be cold/cool until the engine gets to (approx, depends on which thermostat is fitted) about 70c whereupon it should get hot as the thermostat opens.

Edited by Chewbacka
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5 minutes ago, Dolly P. said:

Right so that valve.... On the top... I turned it in the direction of hot which I beleive is clockwise? And there was a hell of a lot of twisting away before it stopped... Could it have just been turned all the way down? To like... Off? Do they turn off? 

They don't turn off, but they do turn cold. It is a mixer valve between hot and cold inlets. Hotter should be anticlockwise, if it is the same as mine, which most of them are. Turn it all the way one way, then all the way the other. See what comes out of a hot tap.

8 minutes ago, Dolly P. said:

Thank you, what am I checking on the thermostat exactly? The pipe going to the calorifier from the thermostat housing was reasonably warm, the pipe coming out was pretty cool.... The engine runs at about 80 and it was sitting at about 80 for the whole time...

The the cauliflower should have warmed up.

Jen

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11 minutes ago, Dolly P. said:

Thank you, what am I checking on the thermostat exactly? The pipe going to the calorifier from the thermostat housing was reasonably warm, the pipe coming out was pretty cool.... The engine runs at about 80 and it was sitting at about 80 for the whole time... ? 

Right so that valve.... On the top... I turned it in the direction of hot which I beleive is clockwise? And there was a hell of a lot of twisting away before it stopped... Could it have just been turned all the way down? To like... Off? Do they turn off? 

Ok, but is the top main top hose getting hot, The big one that goes to the skin cooling tank.

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4 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

They don't turn off, but they do turn cold. It is a mixer valve between hot and cold inlets. Hotter should be anticlockwise, if it is the same as mine, which most of them are. Turn it all the way one way, then all the way the other. See what comes out of a hot tap.

The the cauliflower should have warmed up.

Jen

Okay well I'll just give it another go and see what happens ??‍♀️ I've turned the 

Just now, bizzard said:

Ok, but is the top main top hose getting hot, The big one that goes to the skin cooling tank.

I wouldn't call it hot hot... It was warm.... But not hot. 

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Can you feel the pipe connections to the calorifier? The pipe coming from the engine to the coil should be hot, or at least warm, if cooling water is circulating through the calorifier. And if the domestic water in the calorifier is getting hot the outlet connection at the top should be warm, even if you aren't drawing off any hot water.

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You could still have an air lock in the loop of hose from the engine to the calorifier and back to the engine somewhere. Enough to restrict the flow, so it is sort of warm, but not hot. It should be hot with the engine properly warmed up. Go through all the high points. If there is a joint, loosen it enough to let any air out. If the high point is hose, try chasing any bubbles to a joint by lifting the hose.

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8 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

You could still have an air lock in the loop of hose from the engine to the calorifier and back to the engine somewhere. Enough to restrict the flow, so it is sort of warm, but not hot. It should be hot with the engine properly warmed up. Go through all the high points. If there is a joint, loosen it enough to let any air out. If the high point is hose, try chasing any bubbles to a joint by lifting the hose.

If there was an air lock would the engine not overheat? I'll give that a go tomorrow, its been running the whole time I've been speaking to you and its not even marginally warm... Its the same as the cold tap. ?

Edited by Dolly P.
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1 minute ago, Dolly P. said:

If there was an air lock would the engine not overheat? I'll give that a go tomorrow, its been running the whole time I've been speaking to you and its not even marginally warm... Its the same as the cold tap. ?

No. The vast majority of the cooling happens via the big pipes to the skin tank, if that is what you have, or via the canal water going through the heat exchanger and in to the wet exhaust, depending on the boat. The amount of heat extracted via the calorifier loop is minimal and won't make the engine overheat if it isn't working. The pumping action isn't particularly strong through this loop, so a bubble of air in the pipe can restrict, or even stop the flow. Once the air is out it should be maintenance free until you need to change the engine coolant.

Jen

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58 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

No. The vast majority of the cooling happens via the big pipes to the skin tank, if that is what you have, or via the canal water going through the heat exchanger and in to the wet exhaust, depending on the boat. The amount of heat extracted via the calorifier loop is minimal and won't make the engine overheat if it isn't working. The pumping action isn't particularly strong through this loop, so a bubble of air in the pipe can restrict, or even stop the flow. Once the air is out it should be maintenance free until you need to change the engine coolant.

Jen

Excellent! So I had a jiggle around with those pipes and undid the higher ones and let some bubble out (out of curiosity... How poisonous is coolant exactly of you injest it?... Asking for a friend... ???). Anyhow, the pipes after about 5 mins felt hot to touch and we now have lukewarm water!!!!! Woohooo!!! Thank you thank you thank you xxxxxxxxx 

Edited by Dolly P.
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32 minutes ago, Dolly P. said:

Excellent! So I had a jiggle around with those pipes and undid the higher ones and let some bubble out (out of curiosity... How poisonous is coolant exactly of you injest it?... Asking for a friend... ???). Anyhow, the pipes after about 5 mins felt hot to touch and we now have lukewarm water!!!!! Woohooo!!! Thank you thank you thank you xxxxxxxxx 

It should be ott by now then??

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1 hour ago, Dolly P. said:

Excellent! So I had a jiggle around with those pipes and undid the higher ones and let some bubble out (out of curiosity... How poisonous is coolant exactly of you injest it?... Asking for a friend... ???). Anyhow, the pipes after about 5 mins felt hot to touch and we now have lukewarm water!!!!! Woohooo!!! Thank you thank you thank you xxxxxxxxx 

To a degree it depends upon what type of antifreeze is in use. Blue is far worse that more modern stuff. It also depends upon how much is ingested. I and many other mechanics used to check if leaks were ordinary water or antifreeze mixture by tasting a drop on the end of a finger. Austria got caught adding antifreeze to sweeten wine so within reason no particularly but its not something to try.

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33 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

To a degree it depends upon what type of antifreeze is in use. Blue is far worse that more modern stuff. It also depends upon how much is ingested. I and many other mechanics used to check if leaks were ordinary water or antifreeze mixture by tasting a drop on the end of a finger. Austria got caught adding antifreeze to sweeten wine so within reason no particularly but its not something to try.

???? Well I'm not dead yet ?‍♀️?‍♀️

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On 09/10/2020 at 12:50, Leggers do it lying down said:

Have you considered fitting a grey water tank and draining or pumping your shower waste into that.You can pump it out from the tank into the hedge,instead of putting your grey water directly into the waterway.I have one fitted and I use it for all of my grey water (sinks/shower/washing machine),pumping it into drains at water points,or the hedges!...The land deals with it far better than the water.

It is still legal to discharge grey water overboard on inland waterways,but that could change.

I will also endorse the whale gulper as a first class pump.

 

If you want to empty your grey water into a hedge rather than the waterway then you could just do it by connecting a hose to the skin fitting and just pumping it out with a whale gulper instead of fitting a grey water tank - at least while moored. 

 

For a boat in this country the best way to get rid of grey water is a whale gulper 220. All the rest of these ideas are giving yourself more hassle. Ok we're polluting the waterways but the canals are sewers anyway and there's a lot worse that goes into them than a bit of soapy water. Rivers flush themselves clean.

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3 minutes ago, blackrose said:

For a boat in this country the best way to get rid of grey water is a whale gulper 220. All the rest of these ideas are giving yourself more hassle. Ok we're polluting the waterways but the canals are sewers anyway and there's a lot worse that goes into them than a bit of soapy water.

 

It does help when boaters actually care enough to follow the advice on using low-phosphate detergents rather than their usual brand ...

Edited by TheBiscuits
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8 minutes ago, blackrose said:

If you want to empty your grey water into a hedge rather than the waterway then you could just do it by connecting a hose to the skin fitting and just pumping it out with a whale gulper instead of fitting a grey water tank - at least while moored. 

 

 

Depends which side the outlet is

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58 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Depends which side the outlet is

Depends on the length of the hose.

 

Or it wouldn't take that much imagination or inginuity to fit an outlet on both sides of the boat connected to the gulper via an L-port valve so that only one could be used 

Edited by blackrose
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15 hours ago, TheBiscuits said:

 

It does help when boaters actually care enough to follow the advice on using low-phosphate detergents rather than their usual brand ...

 

On of the co-owners of our first shareboat was an industrial chemist and back in the mid 90's said that no major brands of UK washing up liquids contained phosphates. He reckoned that it was "greenwash" propagated by the makers of "green" washing up liquids.

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4 hours ago, cuthound said:

 

On of the co-owners of our first shareboat was an industrial chemist and back in the mid 90's said that no major brands of UK washing up liquids contained phosphates. He reckoned that it was "greenwash" propagated by the makers of "green" washing up liquids.

When I was on the Broads Authority Forum , green was an issue and the Green Boating awards for Hire Companies where they had to supply "Eco" washing products. When questioned the person responsible couldn't say how much better they were than main stream, just they had "eco" on the label.

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