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Flaking paint....remedies?


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The paint on the boat has been flaking and I'd like to do something about it. Only I'm not really sure what. It doesn't yet need a completely new paint job and the faded paint is actually quite elegant in a way, but the paint is flaking and I'm wondering how to tidy that up.

 

I've read through many posts and have come to the conclusion that a cleaning with either Craftmaster or Mer shampoo would be a good starting point. But should i use wire wool? Sandpaper? 

 

I'm also wondering about the hatches too. They are marine ply and are deteriorating quickly. They are going to be replaced next year but am wondering what's the quickest/easiest/best way to do a temporary or cosmetic restore? 

 

Grateful for thoughts, tips, products.

 

I've attached a few photos although most of you probably now what "flaking paintwork" looks like :)   The hatch is in the last photo.

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7 minutes ago, Kudzucraft said:

 


What you have here is a a HUGE job ahead of you and there is no easy way to this prepped for repaint. It is going to be a lot of work.

 

And cannot be done this time of year unless you can find / hire a heated indoor dry-dock.

You will have to live with it as is until (probably at least) May next year. (Covid allowing)

  • Greenie 1
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It looks like the top layer of paint is flaking off, but the underlying paint is sound. Which suggests that the underlying paint was not properly prepared before the last coat was put on - perhaps wax polish wasn't removed, or the surface was not cleaned or adequately abraded.

But the only answer is to remove all the flaking paint, and that which is likely to flake in future, which probably means taking it all back to the under layer, and then applying a couple of top coats. Not a job for this time of year unless you have access to a heated paint dock.

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Not sure the ply is worth saving, but you could cover it to keep the boat dryer. The rest I'm afraid is due to poor prep work. The paint on the bow end is coming off, down to what could be the boat's original coat of paint after fabrication, which seems to be holding on. It does appear that to do any use, you will have to take the paintwork back to that, and probably for the best, take it back to steel. Less than that and you'll be back to square one a year down the road. 

 

It's a lot of work, but it will transform the boat. 

 

 

  • Greenie 1
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'Fraid so. If you do anything with that, like paint over it, you will end up having to sand that lot back plus the paint you cover it with.  What you have is a paint job that someone did without spending time and effort preparing it. As Mike Hurley said, start gathering the gear to repaint it. If you get patches of rust before then just sand them off a bit and paint them to make life easier next year. My estimate for time taken to repaint - a hard two weeks plus making hatches and other gubbins.

  • Happy 1
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Hatch - done mine (curved slightly) a month or so ago - prob in worse shape. Not sure if yours is solid wood?

 

Remove marine ply, cup power brush. 2 coats direct to solid rust primer. 2 undercoats 2 topcoats in steel inside. Then layer cork sheet (insulation) glued in. Ontop of cork was marine ply sikaflexed and clamped (bought precut to the correct dimensions mail order). Filler. Primer, undercoat and topcoat then varnish the marine ply and repaint /varnish the hatch metal top. Takes ages because of multicoats. But essentially quite easy as long as you work to the gaps you have. Forgot - also replaced the inside runners/sliders (not in pictures) with strips of 2mm metal 40 mm wide).

 

 

 

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This was the beginning. Condensation was the enemy.

 

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Edited by mark99
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15 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Are you sure ?

Yeh, I know, I know. I think what I meant was "I can't do a complete new paint job yet....can't be arranged overnight, needs some interior work doing first, etc." But I admit, the overall look ...from a distance...is quite elegant.  

 

The other comments are pretty much all in agreement. Looks like I should maybe spend my limited DIY time on other tasks and prioritising getting a slot for repainting.

Edited by stort_mark
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You would be wise to repaint sooner rather than later, as the base paint is still sound. A 4" blade scraper is ideal to remove the bulk of the flaking paint and will save a fortune in abrasives, time, effort and unpleasant dust.

  Dont use Mer or any similar product as the wax/silicon will interfere with any new paint applied. 

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2 hours ago, BWM said:

You would be wise to repaint sooner rather than later, as the base paint is still sound. A 4" blade scraper is ideal to remove the bulk of the flaking paint and will save a fortune in abrasives, time, effort and unpleasant dust.

  Dont use Mer or any similar product as the wax/silicon will interfere with any new paint applied. 

Does Mer have silicone? I saw it recommended by a few people in earlier threads.

2 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Shabby Chic ?

Not really. It's just the slightly dull look is quite appealing. It looks weathered and not in a bad way. 

I have rotting door edges that I need to worry about before painting, as well.

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I've always had trouble with slides made from ply.  No matter how good the ply and how well sealed the edges seem to be, the weather wins in the end.

 

My solution is to cover the wood with a thin sheet of aluminium glued on.  It makes a good surface for painting and it completely solves the problem.

 

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2122045900_20200203_162757(1).jpg.20f57e333d14017ec9604db4e10ace21.jpg

Edited by koukouvagia
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3 hours ago, stort_mark said:

Does Mer have silicone? I saw it recommended by a few people in earlier threads.

Not really. It's just the slightly dull look is quite appealing. It looks weathered and not in a bad way. 

I have rotting door edges that I need to worry about before painting, as well.

Being a paint finish restorer/enhancer it will have something in it that won't help, and it won't solve the problems with the paint. The wood can be permanently stabilised with a resin such as west system. 

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3 hours ago, koukouvagia said:

I've always had trouble with slides made from ply.  No matter how good the ply and how well sealed the edges seem to be, the weather wins in the end.

 

My solution is to cover the wood with a thin sheet of aluminium glued on.  It makes a good surface for painting and it completely solves the problem.

 

 

 

 

That's really clever! Thanks for the tip!.

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