Jump to content

Preparing for bitumen black


Ballyeli
 Share

Featured Posts

So I launched into buying a narrow boat during covid when I thought I'd have plenty of time to take it slow and learn....fast forward it's dry docked getting cold and I gotta get this painted and back in the water asap. Base plate is solid after scale gone but needs some coating. There's rust and last small chips of last coating, I've hit it with a wire wheel for a few too many hours, Any tips on what to do for prep?...blasting is the obvious choice but absolutely isn't in the price range. Is rust converter a waste of time or even primer when using bitumen black?

IMG_20200921_211619.jpg

IMG-20200925-WA0001.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Ballyeli said:

....fast forward it's dry docked getting cold and I gotta get this painted and back in the water asap.

By "dry docked" do you mean it's sat on bricks on a hard standing as shown in the photos?  If so, I'd be inclined to see if you can keep it there and get it right rather than to rush it back into the water. You've left it a bit late to be blacking on most days at this time of year - if the steel feels cold to the touch, it's not really good to be blacking. Lots of threads on here about dew points and curing times, putting a newly blacked boat back in too quickly, etc. Of course, sometimes must needs....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Richard10002 said:

I’d get it covered with Vactan, keep it out of the water until March/April, and see how it looks. If bits have rusted again, localised Vactan, the 3 coats of blacking, plus a 4th coat at the waterline.

Sounds like a good plan to me. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

58 minutes ago, Richard10002 said:

I’d get it covered with Vactan, keep it out of the water until March/April, and see how it looks. If bits have rusted again, localised Vactan, the 3 coats of blacking, plus a 4th coat at the waterline.

The borrow some jacks and move the supporting timbers so you can clean up and black the bits which are currently inaccessible.

Then let the blacking harden for at least 48 hours before putting the boat back in the water.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So weather's been very lucky this time of year!  I went with a load of Lowes , followed by 2 coats Primocon, then finally 3 coats blacking.

I've to get it lifted to access the base plate under the wooden blocks but might be only about 4 hours before going into water....bad idea?

 

Also any suggestions on the top paint? Can only see the toplac stuff suggested in other forums, and its available in one colour... but snow white isn't my style!! ?

IMG-20201017-WA0000.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Ballyeli said:

So weather's been very lucky this time of year!  I went with a load of Lowes , followed by 2 coats Primocon, then finally 3 coats blacking.

I've to get it lifted to access the base plate under the wooden blocks but might be only about 4 hours before going into water....bad idea?

 

Also any suggestions on the top paint? Can only see the toplac stuff suggested in other forums, and its available in one colour... but snow white isn't my style!! ?

IMG-20201017-WA0000.jpeg

ya tunnel lights  will get tuk owt on the fust Bridge ole 

 

  • Greenie 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think it really makes much difference whether you prep the hull any further, use vactan or just slap a few coats of bitumen on by itself. Unless you use a better paint system you'll have to do it all again in a few years time.

 

As soon as you start to see rust on the waterline you've got about a year to get the boat out again.

 

So if you use bitumen don't worry too much about the standard of the prep or the coatings. As long as you keep doing it regularly it will be fine.

Edited by blackrose
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, matty40s said:

Just get some weather shield or hammerite on it, no obvious rust patches from that pic.

You havnt got the time, conditions and humidity to paint it properly with enamels outside now.

why make work, as time is against him just leave as is and start next spring, not going to rust much over winter looking at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Ballyeli said:

 

I've to get it lifted to access the base plate under the wooden blocks but might be only about 4 hours before going into water....bad idea?

 

IMG-20201017-WA0000.jpeg

I wouldn’t risk my life getting under that boat looking at the wooden blocks. Very precarious?

Edited by jenevers
M
Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, jenevers said:

I wouldn’t risk my life getting under that boat looking at the wooden blocks. Very precarious?

The swing lift and stands will be rocking at the time just for the underneath the blocks still scaley and zero coats of anything

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Rickent said:

why make work, as time is against him just leave as is and start next spring, not going to rust much over winter looking at it.

What he said......

 

any work done now, however good the weather, would be a complete waste of time and money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Ballyeli said:

The swing lift and stands will be rocking at the time just for the underneath the blocks still scaley and zero coats of anything

Be careful that the swirly mops don't lap the gazooks!

Perhaps the op is a relative of Stanley Unwin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.