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Lister ha2 industrial to marine.


Jrtm

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I've got a ha2 industrial engine 1952 year, its missing (compared to full marine) a few bits but its an odd engine as its got alot of marine parts on it compared to other industrial engines,

 

It already has variable speed control be it electronically controlled, so with all electronics removed a fabricated speed lever can easily replace this.

 

Its missing a hand starter handle (marine hand starter) should be easy to fit one

 

Now the only thing it does say is 19hp at 1500 not 22 at 1800 is this just down to the electronic controller (replace with lever to be same) or do these have diffrent governors?

 

I can see diffrent is the end plate as marine seam to have a extra bit casting and the bolt holes for bolting a gearbox, this isn't a massive problem as its either a case of replace the end case or make a plate to bolt onto it.

 

Lastly are the ha gearboxes the same as fr2?

If diffrent im guessing if a custom end plate is made you could mate one to it?

Edited by billybobbooth
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4 minutes ago, roland elsdon said:

We had an hb 3 with the same set up, prm box on the ‘wrong end’ of the engine. It had a cage fabricated between the flywheel and the gearbox. It cooled fine.

Meant we could run a big pulley off the other end with space around it..

Thanks, looks like best option will be to run it off the flywheel end, good news for me as means I can use my stock national box

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2 hours ago, billybobbooth said:

How did you get on with air flow threw the flywheel? Looks a big but nice setup.

 

My other option is to put a shaft threw to the box with a cover over it

At least 1/3 of the bell housing forms the air inlet as per the image. There is a cast iron spool piece bolted to the flywheel register face with an enlarged portion which the gearbox drive plate bolts to and also provides the correct alternator drive ratio, (high charge at low reves).

Resize of 14.jpg

  • Greenie 2
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Was it used in a genset? For 50HZ (AC)output  a 6(?)pole generator would need to run at an accurately controlled 1500rpm, hence the electric throttle/governor control

and  the HP de-rating from normal max RPM combined with  10% de-rating for continuous   full  electrical load duty.

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1 hour ago, billh said:

Was it used in a genset? For 50HZ (AC)output  a 6(?)pole generator would need to run at an accurately controlled 1500rpm, hence the electric throttle/governor control

and  the HP de-rating from normal max RPM combined with  10% de-rating for continuous   full  electrical load duty.

If you mean mine it was part of a gen set well still is but i think I was or has been installed either in a boat / ship or a confined space as mine has the cooling scoop on the side for the hot air to be vented and also has a shield around the flywheel with a space between the engine and gen for air but also all the electrics are air cooled too and all have air outlet scoops of some sort. Its all a bit odd as everything is electronically controlled even the decomposition is

 

All easy read info is 10kva

Cycles 50

Single phase

240v

 

Slipring brushes 4

Do bushes 4

Edited by billybobbooth
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11 hours ago, billybobbooth said:

Thanks, looks like best option will be to run it off the flywheel end, good news for me as means I can use my stock national box

Is the national you were working on beyond help?

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55 minutes ago, Liam said:

Are you sure on the year? Seems a bit early for a HA2.

Mine says 3161ha2i2

Which would put it 1952?

Unless the i is ment to be a 1 but then it dosnt state if its industrial or marine

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8 minutes ago, BWM said:

Is the national you were working on beyond help?

No national is 3/4 back together

 

I've been quite lucky with it that I have been at bclm but if had been anywhere else I would have been stuffed. I have been looking for a spare engine for ages really wanted a jp1 k1 ect but trying to get them at sensible money, I did find a jp1 but they wanted 1k and by time I rebuilt it I was on for 2.5k,  so if the national does go wrong I've got an engine I can throw in as a temp with very little work to get it in and running.

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10 minutes ago, James Owen said:

That'll be a 1962 unit then. 

Yes but it then dosnt quote it its an industrial or marine engine

Or was it only the marine units that got a marking for use?

Edited by billybobbooth
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12 hours ago, billybobbooth said:

If you mean mine it was part of a gen set well still is but i think I was or has been installed either in a boat / ship or a confined space as mine has the cooling scoop on the side for the hot air to be vented and also has a shield around the flywheel with a space between the engine and gen for air but also all the electrics are air cooled too and all have air outlet scoops of some sort. Its all a bit odd as everything is electronically controlled even the decomposition is

 

All easy read info is 10kva

Cycles 50

Single phase

240v

 

Slipring brushes 4

Do bushes 4

It sounds like you have a 'Startomatic' house set and associated control gear?

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Pos it has a heat cooling outlet shield on and all electrical are cooled too with vents on, once its stopped raining next week I'll get it out and get more details off it ive not had it long.

 

Its also got an electrical decomposition part on the levers too, so has auto start and stop from electrics

Edited by billybobbooth
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5 hours ago, OptedOut said:

It sounds like you have a 'Startomatic' house set and associated control gear?

If it was a start-o-matic I don't think it would have had electronic governing or any of the air ducting fitted. More likely a marine gen set.

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55 minutes ago, Steve56 said:

If it was a start-o-matic I don't think it would have had electronic governing or any of the air ducting fitted. More likely a marine gen set.

There were no electronic governors on 'Startomatic' sets, more like early relay logic to sequence start up/shut down events.

 

All HA generators are designed to operate indoors or in a protective enclosure and require the air ductwork to prevent recirculation of the cooling air.

panel1.jpg

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3 hours ago, Steve56 said:

If it was a start-o-matic I don't think it would have had electronic governing or any of the air ducting fitted. More likely a marine gen set.

I thought was a marine or ship power generator set due to all the ducts and air cooling for a confined space

2 hours ago, OptedOut said:

There were no electronic governors on 'Startomatic' sets, more like early relay logic to sequence start up/shut down events.

 

All HA generators are designed to operate indoors or in a protective enclosure and require the air ductwork to prevent recirculation of the cooling air.

panel1.jpg

Thanks for wire diagram though!

 

But will be loosing it all to convert to marine and bolt a 2g box to it as ive now found there the same as all h series and frs and will hopefully find a marine timing cover or at least one to copy or make a plate to fit to the stock one

Edited by billybobbooth
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  • 2 weeks later...

So an update to my engine, I have now found out what it was used for and why was replaced,

The engine is fine its the dynamo / alternator thing that failed.

 

It was installed into a railway carriage to give 240v to buffet cars and lighting on coaches when pulled by a loco that couldn't provide power, it was then bought (coach) by a small railway society and used until a few years ago when one day the alternator side of it (240v supply) failed, it was then removed and a replacement unit put in. This was then kept as a spare engine, but they decided to sell on and the funds go towards a diesel loco restoration.

 

This will explain why it has all the ducting on in and extra air feeds to all electricals as it was in the back of a guards carriage.

 

Its got the perfect engine for me as has a bit of history to the engine.

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If it has been built as a generator engine it will probably be fixed speed. If this is the case it will need the governor weights and a couple of other parts changing to make it variable speed. Should be quite a simple job if you can get hold of the correct parts.

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It will run but unfortunately she don't have a lift pump or the slot in the crankcase door for one. So got to bodge a tank or something above the fuel filter to try and get fuel into the injectors, I have a big day tank on the boat if it ever got put in so the purpose its being build for means I won't need one just be easyer for setting up and running at home.

 

I've also going to have to get a diffrent crankcase door as there dosnt seam to be a way to fill the engine with oil, unless you just poor the oil strait in threw the heads?

Edited by billybobbooth
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