Antifoul

[TNLI]

On 28/09/2020 at 21:35, MartynG said:

I can confirm that GRP boats do have anodes . I have them on the outdrives , the trim tabs and the bow thruster.

I use  aluminium anodes that are suitable in fresh or salt water. 

Magnesium anodes for fresh water will not last long in salt water. Zinc anodes for salt water may be ineffective in fresh water.

 

I used Seajet  031 which I bought locally . Coverage is 10m2 per litre .  I used a primer from the same manufacturer  to ensure a good bond and avoid any reaction . It was about £60 per 2.5litre tin.

 

 

Nice pick and is that your mobile dangling Zinc anode visible in the bottom left hand corner ??

 

Not sure if an Alumnium anode works with an alloy outdrive system or not, so I will ask Ms Goggle for a wrong biased opinion. I always use anodes on or near the prop shaft, and paint the lovely polished Bronze 3 bladed prop with West System clear Epoxy. It looks far too nice to paint over with AF paint.

 

Big Zincs are tough enough to hold up the corner of a big boat. They must be renting them out as 6 is more than enough. Looks like a twin engine version of my long lost 23ft 23ft Sandseeker Day Cab. That lovely little boat had a single 150hp Volvo Penta turbo diesel, with an incredibly problematic Volvo leg drive. 

 

Which pair of engines, or hybrid electric drive motors do you have fiited, as the multi bladed props look like they are for an engine with a fairly high max RPM, although the leg drive might be a fully geared one ??

[TNLI]

On 29/09/2020 at 08:09, Jane Cartridge said:

Fair point but we are on finger pontoons.  The main hazards a people who moor far forward and leave their pulpits and anchor rollers for me to walk into  

Why would you walk into something that is visible ?? Although I must admit I fell over an open and nearly full 2.5 ltr tin of very expensive International Micron 50 AF paint once, I still used most of the paint I could scrape off the ground, but lost at least half a liter I could not recover. 

Edited October 23, 2021 by TNLI

[Momac]

15 minutes ago, TNLI said:

Nice pick and is that your mobile dangling Zinc anode visible in the bottom left hand corner ??

 

Not sure if an Alumnium anode works with an alloy outdrive system or not, so I will ask Ms Goggle for a wrong biased opinion. I always use anodes on or near the prop shaft, and paint the lovely polished Bronze 3 bladed prop with West System clear Epoxy. It looks far too nice to paint over with AF paint.

 

Big Zincs are tough enough to hold up the corner of a big boat. They must be renting them out as 6 is more than enough. Looks like a twin engine version of my long lost 23ft 23ft Sandseeker Day Cab. That lovely little boat had a single 150hp Volvo Penta turbo diesel, with an incredibly problematic Volvo leg drive. 

 

Which pair of engines, or hybrid electric drive motors do you have fiited, as the multi bladed props look like they are for an engine with a fairly high max RPM, although the leg drive might be a fully geared one ??

We are based on fresh water so zinc anodes are no good.  

Aluminium anodes do work with Aluminum outdrives. The anode metal is more reactive than the leg material. I have  been using aluminum anodes quite a few years now.

 

The engines are 170hp diesels. All outdrives are geared. 

The boat  is soon due for another lift out and service of the outdrives. Regular servicing is the key .

[Alan de Enfield]

7 minutes ago, TNLI said:

Why would you walk into something that is visible ?? Although I must admit I fell over an open and nearly full 2.5 ltr tin of very expensive International Micron 50 AF paint once, I still used most of the paint I could scrape off the ground, but lost at least half a liter I could not recover. 

 

You do realise that the person you are replying to has not logged onto the forum for over 12 months, only started this one thread and didn't come back.

[TNLI]

36 minutes ago, MartynG said:

We are based on fresh water so zinc anodes are no good.  

Aluminium anodes do work with Aluminum outdrives. The anode metal is more reactive than the leg material. I have  been using aluminum anodes quite a few years now.

 

The engines are 170hp diesels. All outdrives are geared. 

The boat  is soon due for another lift out and service of the outdrives. Regular servicing is the key .

Thanks, although I don't use Alloy anodes because I do not know which exact type of alumnium was used for the hull of my 1960's era lifeboat, So I can't then figure out the difference between the special McDuff alloys shaft anode and the hull. It needs to be as wide as possible, as if they are too similar in specific periodic mixed tables terms, all it takes is for one of the connections to the anode from the hull, or in the case of plastic or wood jobs, the metal fiiting that needs protecting and hey presto you will have some type of battery. Hence the need for Zinc plate or rod danglies even in fresh water, along with an epoxy coating over the bare steel, alloy or underwater metal fittings.

  If you are in fresh water and the anodes bubble a bit too much, just smear some Evostick Sticks like Sh1t white adhesive over half the Zinc anode. That can be done without hauling or drying out and does slow down the bubble rate. 

  Alloy anodes for outboard drives like you have that are supplied by the same company as make the outdrives will work well due to product liability issues, BUT complex mixed alloys are rather expensive to manufacture, so the Alumnium anodes sold in Fleabay or from Amazingzone dealers are often no good, as they are made from the same cheap Al as the folks that make Alloy frying pans! I can assure you those copies defintely do not work too well, BUT they sure last a long time in fresh water!

[Momac]

3 minutes ago, TNLI said:

Thanks, although I don't use Alloy anodes because I do not know which exact type of alumnium was used for the hull of my 1960's era lifeboat, So I can't then figure out the difference between the special McDuff alloys shaft anode and the hull. It needs to be as wide as possible, as if they are too similar in specific periodic mixed tables terms, all it takes is for one of the connections to the anode from the hull, or in the case of plastic or wood jobs, the metal fiiting that needs protecting and hey presto you will have some type of battery. Hence the need for Zinc plate or rod danglies even in fresh water, along with an epoxy coating over the bare steel, alloy or underwater metal fittings.

  If you are in fresh water and the anodes bubble a bit too much, just smear some Evostick Sticks like Sh1t white adhesive over half the Zinc anode. That can be done without hauling or drying out and does slow down the bubble rate. 

  Alloy anodes for outboard drives like you have that are supplied by the same company as make the outdrives will work well due to product liability issues, BUT complex mixed alloys are rather expensive to manufacture, so the Alumnium anodes sold in Fleabay or from Amazingzone dealers are often no good, as they are made from the same cheap Al as the folks that make Alloy frying pans! I can assure you those copies defintely do not work too well, BUT they sure last a long time in fresh water!

Zinc anodes are ineffective in fresh water .

I have bought from Solent anodes with no issues 

 https://www.solentanodes.co.uk/