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Thetford C200 Reed Switch fitting


Cruiser_Boy

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I have bought a replacement reed switch for my Thetford C200 toilet.

I have checked the magnets in the cassettes with an external magnet and they appear to be working correctly.

I'd like to replace it without taking the toilet out. The cassette comes out in a cupboard so it is quite a contortion to get at it.

I cannot see or feel the screw that holds it in place. The diagram that came with the new one is useless.

 

Does anyone have a decent picture of the mounting screw and fitting please?

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The screw is hidden behind the fuse, so no pic. Feels like a cross head. Located here, so you'll gave to go by feel to get a screwdriver to it.

c200.jpg.2e7e542eadf0040f0c5d712f35580cfa.jpg

Not sure if there is more than one screw without taking it apart, which I don't want to do. I think it should remove the bracket that holds the fuse and the reed switch, as well as carrying the flush water pipe. From there you should be able to replace the reed switch and crimp on the wires of the new one.

For easier access, the toilet may just lift off a mounting bracket at the rear. Depends how it was installed, but try lifting it upwards. Will be a lot easier to work on. Empty the water tank, or disconnect the flush water too, depending on the exact model you have.

 

Jen

Edited by Jen-in-Wellies
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The usual reason the red light stops working is because the arm in the cassette has become bent due to over vigorous swilling out.

I have had to reset 2 of mine, its a hand in cassette job. Are you sure the arm isn't bent?

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5 hours ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

The screw is hidden behind the fuse, so no pic. Feels like a cross head. Located here, so you'll gave to go by feel to get a screwdriver to it.

c200.jpg.2e7e542eadf0040f0c5d712f35580cfa.jpg

Not sure if there is more than one screw without taking it apart, which I don't want to do. I think it should remove the bracket that holds the fuse and the reed switch, as well as carrying the flush water pipe. From there you should be able to replace the reed switch and crimp on the wires of the new one.

For easier access, the toilet may just lift off a mounting bracket at the rear. Depends how it was installed, but try lifting it upwards. Will be a lot easier to work on. Empty the water tank, or disconnect the flush water too, depending on the exact model you have.

 

Jen

Hey wonderful thank you!

I tested that fuse as well. Didn't see the screw behind it.

As for fixing I can see 4 rusty screws into the deck so don't want to mess with those unless I have to.

3 hours ago, Loddon said:

The usual reason the red light stops working is because the arm in the cassette has become bent due to over vigorous swilling out.

I have had to reset 2 of mine, its a hand in cassette job. Are you sure the arm isn't bent?

Not sure no but I taped a magnet to the reed switch and the light did not come on.

I also used said magnet on the cassette and the arm lifted up and stopped in approximately the right place hence I think it is the switch.

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9 minutes ago, WhiteSuit said:

You know when it needs emptying if you look down the hole:)

 

I have one cassette that doesn't function while others still do.

 

Yes, so often this is said when ever this issue is discussed.??

 

However if anybody has this issue and would like to sort it 9 times out of 10 it will be a disloged or jammed float.

 

Give the tank a good rinse, open the flap and peer inside. The float is on the back wall. Hand in to re fix it or clear any loo paper which is jamming it.

 

(Over vigorous shaking when rinsing is the chief cause of a dislodged float).

 

 

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4 minutes ago, The Happy Nomad said:

Yes, so often this is said when ever this issue is discussed.??

 

However if anybody has this issue and would like to sort it 9 times out of 10 it will be a disloged or jammed float.

 

Give the tank a good rinse, open the flap and peer inside. The float is on the back wall. Hand in to re fix it or clear any loo paper which is jamming it.

 

(Over vigorous shaking when rinsing is the chief cause of a dislodged float).

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for all the replies.

For anyone else trying to do this you don't need to undo the screw. The screw holds a clip with some sprung pegs

which fit into the two holes on the Reed switch mount. The third single peg holds the clip in place while putting the

screw in. See attached photo. There looks to be a small gap between the reed and the clip in between the pegs to

put a screwdriver and gently lever the switch off.

Of course I didn't realise this until  I had taken the clip off. The screw is Torx by the way.

IMG_4836.JPG

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 26/09/2020 at 17:16, The Happy Nomad said:

Yes, so often this is said when ever this issue is discussed.??

 

However if anybody has this issue and would like to sort it 9 times out of 10 it will be a disloged or jammed float.

 

Give the tank a good rinse, open the flap and peer inside. The float is on the back wall. Hand in to re fix it or clear any loo paper which is jamming it.

 

(Over vigorous shaking when rinsing is the chief cause of a dislodged float).

Thank you for the help. Now fixed, I was going to blame the new style of cassette as I had never had this problem previously. 

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  • 1 month later...
On 28/09/2020 at 12:27, Loddon said:

Did the new switch cure the problem?

Ooops my apologies I haven't looked at this for months and didn't get an email notification.

Yes fixed now. What I did notice was that when I tested it with plain water I was vastly overestimating when it was 'full' hence emptying it too often. I kept thinking the fix had not worked but it eventually indicated full.

With the light working should be much longer between empties - but much heavier ?

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