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Exhaust flexible pipe


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Midland chandlers looks like the one thanks for the answers. I think with a bit of heat it will come off. But I have another problem above the silencer is a screwed in elbow and also one at the other end. Do I turn the threaded flange further onto the silencer so that the flexible unscrews and releases from the flange then remove the flexible at the other end. All the joints are screwed together the only way I can see to release the flexible is as above?

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Looking at the OP picture I cannot tell which way the union nut unscrews.  If he is lucky the nut will go toward the flexible and there will then be no need to remove the other half from the silencer, just fit a new half union to the new flexible.  I don't think the silencer end half union will come off without damaging the silencer, even with a load of heat.

N

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4 minutes ago, BEngo said:

Looking at the OP picture I cannot tell which way the union nut unscrews.  If he is lucky the nut will go toward the flexible and there will then be no need to remove the other half from the silencer, just fit a new half union to the new flexible.  I don't think the silencer end half union will come off without damaging the silencer, even with a load of heat.

N

 

I've changed a couple of flexible exhausts. Be prepared to have some 'brute' wrenches and torsion bars - to take the old one off.

 

 

 

Edited by Higgs
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Unbolt the flange from the engine before you try to undo the threaded joints or you will break the manifold. You will need a new gasket here.

If you can get the whole assembly off the boat, batter the outside of the threaded joints with a hammer on an anvil or a vice to loosen them. You are very unlikely to be able to just undo them.

 

 

Edited by Tracy D'arth
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There is no flange at the engine end just a screwed in 90 degree elbow at the bottom,it is a beta engine in a sound proof box only hope is that the big nut releases or cut it. Think it looks worst than it is, if it needs a new silencer it is not too bad but will still have a problem if it is seized the other end. Worked on Citroen  cars for 27 years so am quite use to things being seized.

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3 minutes ago, chevron said:

There is no flange at the engine end just a screwed in 90 degree elbow at the bottom,it is a beta engine in a sound proof box only hope is that the big nut releases or cut it. Think it looks worst than it is, if it needs a new silencer it is not too bad but will still have a problem if it is seized the other end. Worked on Citroen  cars for 27 years so am quite use to things being seized.

Ah, but that's French seized, English seized is much harder!

 

I've shaken these unions and threads loose by using a cold chisel on all 6 flats to spread the female fittings slightly.

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13 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Unbolt the flange from the engine before you try to undo the threaded joints or you will break the manifold. You will need a new gasket here.

If you can get the whole assembly off the boat, batter the outside of the threaded joints with a hammer on an anvil or a vice to loosen them. You are very unlikely to be able to just undo them.

 

 

Sounnd advice, no matter how much bother it is get it off the engine and onto the bench, I suspect that brute is going to give you a heck of a fight.

When re-building get a tube of copper antisieze grease to apply to the threads, it'll give you half a chance for the next time around.

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1 minute ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Ah, but that's French seized, English seized is much harder!

 

I've shaken these unions and threads loose by using a cold chisel on all 6 flats to spread the female fittings slightly.

I have a beta and on mine there is a flange with three bolts connecting the threaded fitting to the cast iron manifold. This is not my engine 

bd3.jpg

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Unfortunately my beta engine is in one of them suitcase type boxes. On looking again it was the same joint in the most inaccessible place as the joint at the silencer. I am not too fussed if I have to replace the silencer and coupling as long as I can get the flexible pipe out of the elbow near the engine.  Have wrapped all the joints in pieces of cloth now and soaked them with penetrating fluid to start with.

Edited by chevron
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2 hours ago, Man 'o Kent said:

 

When re-building get a tube of copper antisieze grease to apply to the threads, it'll give you half a chance for the next time around.

..or even copperslip....

 

With Kiwidads double exhaust, we had to cut pipes with an angle grinder in 4 locations, plus a welded bracket to get it all out. (2005 installation)

Edited by matty40s
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The bottom housing sits under the engine and gearbox you would have to remove the engine to remove it as the engine mountings bolt through it. Unfortunately the exhaust goes through the rear of the bottom housing.you can see it in picture

43B5A042-7AD4-439E-AD9C-0D8DF3F035AB.jpeg

Edited by chevron
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Appreciate all the helpful comments and the utube video of how the connection works heat would not move the joints even with the biggest pipe wrench, so angle grinder to cut the clamps and a hacksaw to cut the joints with threads on I need to reuse

7BF4EA71-6CC8-4F07-8462-7F5EFC829369.jpeg

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If heating yer stubborn nuts really needs to be done fast so that the nut expands to release it without heating and expanding the whole thing which generally means you don't usually get anywhere. Oxy acetylene flame played on one side of the nut only will expand it quickly leaving what its screwed onto cooler.  Ordinary butane-propane torch flames are not hot enough and so not fast enough to achieve this.

Edited by bizzard
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