12v Shoreline fridge

[Richard10002]

2 hours ago, nicknorman said:

What I am not clear about is whether the amount of refrigerant still in it can be determined by pressure, or is the pressure determined by the vapour pressure of the stuff, a bit like lpg in a cylinder? And thus will be fixed until there is no more liquid refrigerant?

 

If so then I guess one would have to remove all the refrigerant, before replacing it measured by weight as you describe.

I see fridge engineers with dials, so wonder if they attach a dial when filling, and watch for the right pressure?

[Richard10002]

On 30/08/2020 at 13:49, Loddon said:

Something like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402359698516

Will enable you to bypass the internal stat.

Just push the temp probe up the drain hole of the fridge, wire the unit into the supply,  and turn the internal stat full up and you have a far more accurate stat than is in the fridge at present.

 

 

There are many available just search digital 12v thermostat on eBay.

 

I bought this last week to control an electric cool box, (no thermostat), we had knocking around - until I either fix, or replace, the failed fridge.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07RJD44J1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Connected before the 12V socket, it's working fine, keeping the box between 4C and 6C.

[TheBiscuits]

1 hour ago, mrsmelly said:

why the hell do people fit noisey washing machines in the kitchen next to the front cabin!!

 

It's so you can make the missus a brew while you are loading the washer ...

 

[mrsmelly]

13 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:

 

It's so you can make the missus a brew while you are loading the washer ...

 

I havnt been on the course!!

[cuthound]

6 hours ago, BEngo said:

You find a refrigeration engineer with a bottle of the right refrigerant.  Most are not interchangeable, some have been banned.

 

The idea is to connect the bottle to the filling stub (bit of copper pipe with a crimped end,  usually sticking out of the compressor), weigh bottle, open tap till the right amount (by weight) of stuff has gone in.  Close bottle tap.  Crimp the filling stub shut.  Remove bottle.  Bend the crimp over and braze it.

The quantity and type of the refrigerant are usually marked on the data plate.

  Before regassing you need to do the hard part:  Find out why the gas left in the first place and stop the new stuff doing the same.

 

In my experience most fridge engineers use a line tap valve to re-gas, rather than messing about with crimping and brazing.

 

 

 

3 hours ago, mrsmelly said:

Many boats have stupid fit outs that are done by people who are realy quite clueless. I have had boats with fridges next to cookers and why the hell do people fit noisey washing machines in the kitchen next to the front cabin!!

 

Our last shareboat had the fridge directly opposite the coal fired stove!

 

It certainly gave the fridge a good workout when the stove was blazing merrily.

Edited October 31, 2020 by cuthound
To insert spaces between merged posts

[nb Innisfree]

5 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Assuming that it was 12 hours per 24 hours that does seem very high.

 

I know mine is a Waeco but mine is around 20 minutes per hour (33%)

Yes it does seem high but it used approx 16ah per 24hrs (24v) which is about right. Never did fugure it out, very odd

[Alan de Enfield]

5 minutes ago, nb Innisfree said:

Yes it does seem high but it used approx 16ah per 24hrs (24v) which is about right. Never did fugure it out, very odd

Mine (12v) uses ~30Ah per 24 hours so very similar.

 

"More hours but less amps per hour" (that'll get the pedants going)