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Full service bmc


JonT

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On 08/09/2020 at 08:39, JonT said:

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AsWfN-2PkNmMqX-QL1bA8ALDO_sr

Cleaned out the engine compartment it was a mess. Put some saw dust down to soak up the smelly liquid. Pumped out the coolant tank and going to have a look at it today

I'd love a perkins, maybe on the next one

Use cheap disposable nappies, much easier than sawdust.

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8 hours ago, Slim said:

Use cheap disposable nappies, much easier than sawdust.

Ah excellent i will keep this in mind gor the time when i will spill stuff when i am doing the service. Work has got in the way atm but i will be back on it soon. Thanks for the tip

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 26/08/2020 at 13:01, Tony Brooks said:

As you don't know the history of the engine get the injector drive skew gear lubricator jet and strainer out and make sure they are clean. Both are below the back of the exhaust manifold, the manual shoudl show you where.

I am an intruder out of curiosity!  What are those please?

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I asked what they were not what they are called!  There is a "something" that accesses the oil pump shaft. It is a stud with a hollow needle on the end.  No sign of a strainer and I can see no reference on the (ASAP) manual or the MG manual.

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18 minutes ago, GBW said:

I asked what they were not what they are called!  There is a "something" that accesses the oil pump shaft. It is a stud with a hollow needle on the end.  No sign of a strainer and I can see no reference on the (ASAP) manual or the MG manual.

Well from your question I would have answered as @Tracy D'arth did - poorly worded question

 

As MGs were never fitted with a  diesel engine they would not need extra lubrication for the DISTRIBUTOR drive skew gear because the distributor loads are only a fraction of the DPA injector pump dive load. The strainer was always shown in the official BMC marine manual. and I suspect the standard diesel engine one as well.

 

I think your "something" is the oil jet except is does not access the oil pump shaft and is not a stud - its a hexagon set screw.

 

Close to it there is another hexagon but this time horizontal screwed into a vertical swelling in the block. If you unscrew this the strainer should be one the end a bit like the jet but they do occasional rust away if they re punched steel or distort if they are brass mesh.

 

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Thanks Tony.  Now I'm more confused!  I have a needle like injector which is screwed in horizontally and a strainer (in good condition) which is screwed in vertically!

 

I should have said oil pump body not shaft.

 

I am rebuilding the engine which has been sleeved and reground and it is a bit like a three dimension jigsaw.  I would never have come across these components by accident.  As they were only screwed in loosely, I would have made their acquaintance sooner or later! 

 

Is there a better manual than that available on the ASAP website?

 

Found one from Calcutt.

Edited by GBW
Found manual
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8 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

They are as Tony said, lubricator and strainer for the skew drive gear. Essential part of the service.

I have a British Leyland Service Book that states that for a road vehicle fitted with the 1.5 diesel engine the fuel injection pump driving gear lubricator and lubricator filter should be cleaned every 6,000 miles or 6 monthly intervals. In 1971 the British Leyland recommended charge for a  6,000 mile service on a diesel Austin A60 / Morris Oxford was £6-64p . The 12,000 mile service was £10-65p . 

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  • 10 months later...
On 26/08/2020 at 12:43, JonT said:

I have recently purchased a Springer with a BMC 1500, So I am planning a later full refurb, but for now I am going to do a full engine service and have a couple of questions and appreciate any advice you guys may have.

 

Engine code first bit of a geek so want to know what and where its from

So my engine code is:- 15p /785a/d ****

The first part is the engine size 15(00) is the p OHV? And 785 is that cylinder bore or capacity? A/D I think is automatic/diesel and then the engine serial number. I found a little info online but thought there would be a guru on here that would know

The block has JAM 1210 BIL I can't find anything about this I am assuming block indent and spec or capacity.

 

So as it has sat for a while I want to do as full service as I can to get it running, strip down later when needed. So my list so far is

Filters :- oil, air, fuel. is there anymore i should think of. And i was looking at the screw on conversion kits available for ease of use. Is there any difference between the cheap ones online or expensive ones from chandlers I see.

 

Oil change see table below, is this still the best option to go with an aged engine. Do I need to do the oil relief valve.

 

Going to drain all the fuel out of the tank and systems and replace with fresh, any tips tricks with this appreciated.

Alternator belt, thermostat and glowplug replace. And coolant flush and replace.

 

Then just check all the cables and electrics.

 

I have restored cars and campers in the past so feel quite confident. Tempted to take the engine out as it would be a lot more space, as I would need to repack the stern gland and drain the gearbox at the same time, just to be safe.

 

The engine is free turning and everything feels quite tight atm so quite happy it should run once all checked and aligned correctly.

 

Sorry for the billion questions but I want to dive right into it and get the engine sorted for peace of mind.

 

TIA

15984417565875762838249789854962.jpg

 

On 26/08/2020 at 12:43, JonT said:

I have recently purchased a Springer with a BMC 1500, So I am planning a later full refurb, but for now I am going to do a full engine service and have a couple of questions and appreciate any advice you guys may have.

 

Engine code first bit of a geek so want to know what and where its from

So my engine code is:- 15p /785a/d ****

The first part is the engine size 15(00) is the p OHV? And 785 is that cylinder bore or capacity? A/D I think is automatic/diesel and then the engine serial number. I found a little info online but thought there would be a guru on here that would know

The block has JAM 1210 BIL I can't find anything about this I am assuming block indent and spec or capacity.

 

So as it has sat for a while I want to do as full service as I can to get it running, strip down later when needed. So my list so far is

Filters :- oil, air, fuel. is there anymore i should think of. And i was looking at the screw on conversion kits available for ease of use. Is there any difference between the cheap ones online or expensive ones from chandlers I see.

 

Oil change see table below, is this still the best option to go with an aged engine. Do I need to do the oil relief valve.

 

Going to drain all the fuel out of the tank and systems and replace with fresh, any tips tricks with this appreciated.

Alternator belt, thermostat and glowplug replace. And coolant flush and replace.

 

Then just check all the cables and electrics.

 

I have restored cars and campers in the past so feel quite confident. Tempted to take the engine out as it would be a lot more space, as I would need to repack the stern gland and drain the gearbox at the same time, just to be safe.

 

The engine is free turning and everything feels quite tight atm so quite happy it should run once all checked and aligned correctly.

 

Sorry for the billion questions but I want to dive right into it and get the engine sorted for peace of mind.

 

TIA

15984417565875762838249789854962.jpg

 

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  • 1 month later...

Not so sure if the oils listed are in production, although Delvac and Rotella brans are still around, and the advice to use a 20W20 is a possible typo for 20W40, also if you have a PRM 100 box, it does say 20W50 mineral and no one wants to use 2 different oils. 

 

PS: Just dashed into my old mans garage where I finally managed to moved by beloved BMC 1500 marine donkey and the hydraulic box plates says this:

 

24/10112 NEWAGE COVENTRY

 

Mobil Super or Delvac 10W30

Shell Rotella 20W40

BP 20/50

Castrol GTX 20W50

 

The current Mobil Delvac is a HC (Hydrocrack) full synthetic and I don't like using that type of oil in a hydraulic box due to potential seal issues, so I sold the can of Delvac 10W40 I had in the pub today, and ordered up an oil recommended by Liqui Moly R&D, NOVA SUPER 20W50 (Acea A3/B4), which is a cheaper version of LM TOURING HIGH TECH 20W50. No idea why the former is 23 quid for 5 liters Inc postage, and the latter is a tenner more in Fleabay. Might be the blue colour of the can. The TBN of the first one is listed as 10, so it's a good cleaner, (Max I've seen is Delvac at 14), and LM will have added plenty of good Zinc, (DZZP), anti wear additive.

 

Also, I like avoiding cold starts so I'm looking at fitting a Wolverine stick on a 125W 12v sump heater. 2 or 3 hours to cook up the oil will make a huge difference to the initial start wear factors. An alternative more expensive plan would be to get a big dog to sleep in the engine bay ?

 

Hijacking this thread slightly as we are both getting ready for a test run or three, I was wrong about the main 4 engine mounts, they are all level, only the bellhousing ones are angled. One of the mounts is distorted in hole position terms, so will be replaced with an ASAP part. The add on plate for the angled mounts is definitely not a factory one, as the edges are rough. I'm still going to fit 2 more mounts to a new teak beam, so what do you Fleabay surfers think of these 2 far Eastern jobs:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372075541530

 

 

 

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Those mounts are probably perfectly OK, ideally you would fit 4 the same or maybe renew just both front/ both rear. Thing is that once you start altering the height and angle and alignment of the engine it can be very difficult to get it right again unless you are lucky enough to have some good and expensive couplings (Python, Aquadrive or something like that)  so if it a'int broke don't fix it. Some engines might have different front to rear ones depending on weight distribution but I doult that it would be critical on a small diesel. Basically if the engine has clean oil and filter, clean fuel and air and is not subject to overheating or thrashing it will remain a happy little engine for years. Clean fuel can be tricky, boat fuel tanks can be full of horrible stuff but its damned hard to get the muck out unless there is a big enough hole to shine a light in and get your hand in too. No amount of care will replace the 0.0000005 of a gram of metal lost from the wearing surfaces and bearings but keeping the oil clean is the best thing you can do.

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Just to point out that the DV36 that is of a similar size to a 1.5 does have different mounts front to back and this particular BMC has an old PRM box hung off the back and I think it uses a cast iron case. It also has extra feet fitted behind the engine which we have not seen, plus the original rear feet seem to have no mounts in them.  If TNLI can use all four rear mounts then I suspect his linked mounts will be fine but not so sure if he leaves the original rear feet unmounted.

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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

Just to point out that the DV36 that is of a similar size to a 1.5 does have different mounts front to back and this particular BMC has an old PRM box hung off the back and I think it uses a cast iron case. It also has extra feet fitted behind the engine which we have not seen, plus the original rear feet seem to have no mounts in them.  If TNLI can use all four rear mounts then I suspect his linked mounts will be fine but not so sure if he leaves the original rear feet unmounted.

Thanks will post some pics when I can get this Win 10 Bluetooth game sorted. The 4 normal engine mounts already have good single bolt rubber bushes, although one is off centre so will be replaced. I did look at a DV 36, but it was too heavy, fairly expensive and the mounts did not line up, so gave up and went back to the original spec BMC 1500, the 2 missing mounts were as TB says on a homemade plate that might not have been used.

 

TB, does the present main mounting system need another set of mounts, or do you just bolt it down to the beds ??

 

Anyone know how to decode the box plate number in terms of which year it was made ??

 

Just sorting out the crank case breather hose connection for a new shiny alloy cover with MG stamped on it. I will need to put a small screw or tiny nut through the vent hole in the new cap, as that's a daft way to vent an engine. That pipe goes to a connection on the air filter. 

 

Anyone know where to source a new torsional crankshaft damper, IF I need one ?? 

I've already sent messages to both ASAP and Calcutta about that damper, and just to confuse the parts game further, there seem to be 2 types of crankshaft flange. Not sure if that effects the damper or not.

 

 

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Engines can be flexibly mounted or rigidly mounted, the choice is up to the installer so if you go for rigid mounting the engine feet bolt straight onto the beds with no rubber mounts. If you decide to do this I think i would remove the two rubber front engine mounts  (the automotive ones) and replace them with the same thickness blocks of hard wood.

 

On a flexibly mounted engine all engine feet should sit on a flexible mount but in your case it is complicated because your front mounts are between the engine and a cross member that bolts straight down onto the beds. The feet on the flywheel housing need special and no longer available flexible mounts and you can't fit the type of mount you linked to because it will then  cause the back of the engine to stick up into the air unless you cut chunks out of the engine bed to allow them to sit lower. Finally those extra feet on the gearbox may or may not be at the same height as the flywheel housing feet and the front cross member so again the beds may need packing or cutting about to fit the mounts yet keep the engine and shaft in line.

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10 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Engines can be flexibly mounted or rigidly mounted, the choice is up to the installer so if you go for rigid mounting the engine feet bolt straight onto the beds with no rubber mounts. If you decide to do this I think i would remove the two rubber front engine mounts  (the automotive ones) and replace them with the same thickness blocks of hard wood.

 

On a flexibly mounted engine all engine feet should sit on a flexible mount but in your case it is complicated because your front mounts are between the engine and a cross member that bolts straight down onto the beds. The feet on the flywheel housing need special and no longer available flexible mounts and you can't fit the type of mount you linked to because it will then  cause the back of the engine to stick up into the air unless you cut chunks out of the engine bed to allow them to sit lower. Finally those extra feet on the gearbox may or may not be at the same height as the flywheel housing feet and the front cross member so again the beds may need packing or cutting about to fit the mounts yet keep the engine and shaft in line.

 

Thanks, yes it looks like I might need 4 more mounts to make sure it's possible to align correctly, although I have not had enough time to check if it is possible to use a secondary block for the 4 main mounts which seems to be normal, I will need to measure the height of the beds above the hull first, and sort out another light in the garage, as I can only see one side clearly.

Edited by TNLI
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  • 1 month later...

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