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bonding battens


mboat01
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What would be best for bonding wood battens to inside hull above gunwales bare (primed) steel near windows ? - Epoxy (e.g., Araldite rapid 5 min syringe) or weatherproof sealant (e.g., Sikaflex EBT+ Polyurethane) ??. I want good bond from wood to steel but Im also concerned that needs to have some flexibility as sides of boat stretch and expand when facing sun. By instinct Id go with the epoxy - am I missing any obvious problems ?. 

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I'm doing some battening below the gunwale. I've started off by making use of the angles which are already welded to the hull - drilled holes in the angles and bolted battens to them. Perhaps that approach would mitigate your movement worries? Would need some tabs welded. Wouldn't have thought an epoxy resin would give you the flexibility. Maybe one of the other sealant/adhesives could do the job.

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I didn't bother trying to fix to the cabin sides. I built out from the below gunwale battens to secure the bottoms, and used a ceiling batten hard up against the tops. I think if was doing it again, I would do the same but add PU40 sealant as well. I wouldn't like to rely on sealant and the primer, it relies on both the primer bond to the steel and the sealant to the primer.

 

Richard 

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Thanks All. Is clamping pressure a factor ? -  I know epoxy doesnt like high clamp pressure, whereas PVA adhesives do. With where I need to fix in to Im not going to be able to put a clamp on at all. Ill just have to put in the adhesive, push down on the wood, and hope for the best. I know that would work fine with epoxy, but consensus seems to be that isnt flexible enough. So I guess question is which of OB1 or SikaTack do you think would be best in that usage scenario ?

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21 hours ago, WotEver said:

Marineflex. 
Sikafkex (but I don’t know which one)

 

Someone more knowledgeable than me will be along shortly. 

Yes or the cheaper but equally good alternative, Stixall from Toolstation. It's important to key both surfaces and wipe clean with a cloth dampened with white spirit first. After 24 hours you'll need a hammer and chisel to remove the batten and yet it's still a flexible bond.

Edited by blackrose
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PU18 for all non-structural bonding of battens, panels, etc.

 

cheap as chips, tolerates dampness on surfaces being bonded, works like a magnet - strong bond, but when the time comes to strip it off it comes away cleanly with a sharp knife.  cleans up with white spirit.

 

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1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:

To hold the battens whilst the whatever glue sets use thin wooden lath wedged across the cabin.

Thats brilliant idea ... and got me googling - i cant see why https://www.screwfix.com/p/extending-support-rod-2-95m/14003 braced across cabin shouldnt work. Thanks so much for the inspiration !.

 

Now just got to settle on glue ... so far about 10 options ?

(options mentioned so far = Marineflex, Sikaflex, Stixall, CT1, OB1, PU18, SikaTack, Tiger sealer)

 

Edited by Sassy Lass
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12 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

foams a bit as it sets filling gaps a treat. and its cheap.

But not very flexible.  In fact, quite hard and brittle.  Sticks like wotsit to a blanket though.

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35 minutes ago, Sassy Lass said:

thanks. OB1 is a nose ahead into final straight and data sheet says full cure time is 24hrs .. think me arms would be tired pushing in place for that long

 

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