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Antifreeze turning black


Dave 2

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3 minutes ago, Dave 2 said:

Hi all for some reason my pink antifreeze has started to turn dark pink with a sediment in the expansion tank, engine And boat only 2 years old any ideas welcome.

Corrosion inhibitor used up, not concentrated enough and the iron & steel is rusting. Change it forthwith, 33% to 50% concentration.

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43 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Corrosion inhibitor used up, not concentrated enough and the iron & steel is rusting. Change it forthwith, 33% to 50% concentration.

Or possibly the system was only half drained and red and blue coolant in large quantities have mixed which can cause a fine ‘sand’ type of sediment to form.  Flush and refill.

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Wet and dry vac. Remove lower hose/s and vac out. Flush out with clean water to remove all old AF and sludge.  

Mix concentrated AF with water to required concentration before putting it in.  Don't use hard water or water from a water softener. Clean rainwater is OK.   

Deionized is better but gets expensive.

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Hello, I'll also need to change my antifreeze soon. How/ where do you correctly dispose of the old mix? I'm used to motorcycles where I typically get a litre at a time, not tens of litres.

Thanks.

Edited by Awayonmyboat
Fat finger problems
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29 minutes ago, Awayonmyboat said:

Hello, I'll also need to change my antifreeze soon. How/ where do you correctly dispose of the old mix? I'm used to motorcycles where I typically get a litre at a time, not tens of litres.

Thanks.

Contact your Local council, Some will arrange for a contractor to collect and dispose of to 20 litres of hazardous waste from home, free of charge or have a tank at the local tip.

 

https://www.gov.uk/hazardous-waste-disposal

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11 hours ago, Awayonmyboat said:

Hello, I'll also need to change my antifreeze soon. How/ where do you correctly dispose of the old mix? I'm used to motorcycles where I typically get a litre at a time, not tens of litres.

Thanks.

Put it down a loo, preferably on a rainy day. The dilution with many thousands of gallons of water by the time it gets to the sewage works will render it harmless.

It will also help to disperse fat bergs.

  • Greenie 2
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10 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Put it down a loo, preferably on a rainy day. The dilution with many thousands of gallons of water by the time it gets to the sewage works will render it harmless.

It will also help to disperse fat bergs.

When I had some to dispose of I rang the water company and they told me my local sewerage plant was ‘small’  (serves a town of 15000) and more than a couple of litres would kill the bacteria and not to do it.  Took it to the garage that services my car and they let me put it in their waste coolant tank.  

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7 minutes ago, Chewbacka said:

When I had some to dispose of I rang the water company and they told me my local sewerage plant was ‘small’  (serves a town of 15000) and more than a couple of litres would kill the bacteria and not to do it.  Took it to the garage that services my car and they let me put it in their waste coolant tank.  

I hope that the 15000 don't use bleach then, it kills 99.9% of germs! Bet that there is far more than a couple of litres flushed every hour.

TD'

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On 26/07/2020 at 20:38, Dave 2 said:

Hi can you help me as the boat has two skin tanks what’s the best way to drain the antifreeze, I’ve done it on vehicles but never a boat.

An alternative to wet and dry vac, is to remove the lower skin tank coolant hose at the engine end, and feed a hose down connected to a pump mounted on the end of a battery drill. Pump the old coolant directly into containers, very effective, avoids double handling and avoids dumping everything into the bilge. Will also extract the crud accumulated in the bottom of the skin tank. Pump the header tank dry first.

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On 27/07/2020 at 21:23, Cas446 said:

An alternative to wet and dry vac, is to remove the lower skin tank coolant hose at the engine end, and feed a hose down connected to a pump mounted on the end of a battery drill. Pump the old coolant directly into containers, very effective, avoids double handling and avoids dumping everything into the bilge. Will also extract the crud accumulated in the bottom of the skin tank. Pump the header tank dry first.

Excellent method.  This is on my list to do and wondered if something like this would suffice for the pump?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07F9WF2WM/?coliid=I1AK3E9FZKHH4U&colid=1WRD3SIH27V20&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

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45 minutes ago, Dave 2 said:

Yes never thought about baffles but I’ll still pump out as much as I can before dropping the hoses, thanks for reminding me.

If you are quick you could take the bottom hose off the engine end and pull it up high and feed the smaller pump tube down the hose into the bottom of the skin tank.

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On 29/07/2020 at 10:21, robtheplod said:

Excellent method.  This is on my list to do and wondered if something like this would suffice for the pump?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07F9WF2WM/?coliid=I1AK3E9FZKHH4U&colid=1WRD3SIH27V20&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

Check it can pump water. Many 12 volt oil extract pumps rely on the oil they are pumping to lubricate the pump itself and can seize if water is pumped.

 

Another alternative is a large Pela pump. Thesecrely on a vacuum to extract oil and water from wherever and are always useful on a boat as the suction pipe is long, small and thin so will fit in many almost inaccessible areas.

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If you do exactly like Cass446 says in post #15 with a 12v pump, drill pump or Pela you will get very little if any water going into the bilge.

My engine is a Beta 43 it has a water drain on the side of engine block plastic pipe on that into container, drain, take bottom hose off engine end plastic pipe down hose extract water, job done.

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