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Water circulation problem.


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10 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

OK, maybe being new and well greased is helping.

I'm sure if you have it the same way as it was previously it'll be fine.

 

Again, well done its a big achievement doing your own repairs.

 

10 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

I have got the bug to restore things now I find it relaxing.

Edited by marji
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Ok I have decided to change out most of the water pipes, might as well do it all now.

 

A question, I have been thinking that the inlet hose from the back of my boat seems a bit long, maybe shorten it would produce a more powerful flow and also position it downwards near to the back of the boat body?.

 

looking to change the filter but no joy finding one.

 

 

 

 

 

hose resize.jpeg

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There was concern raised over my filter, ok I understand its a diy job but I have looked and I just cannot find a suitable filter for my boat, so I decided last night I was going to make another which will have a mesh to offer better protection, it has cost me £23 but I have enough pipe to make maybe 10 more tubes, and enough mesh for one more, at an average lets say £12 all in per filter.

 

Is it a winner or still concerns?

 

 

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2 hours ago, marji said:

There was concern raised over my filter, ok I understand its a diy job but I have looked and I just cannot find a suitable filter for my boat, so I decided last night I was going to make another which will have a mesh to offer better protection, it has cost me £23 but I have enough pipe to make maybe 10 more tubes, and enough mesh for one more, at an average lets say £12 all in per filter.

 

Is it a winner or still concerns?

 

 

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Looks clever and promising, the acid test is does it work? I would get it away from the prop, the muck and turbulence you don't need.

 

Pump all sorted now?

TD' 

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Yes the pump is all done, I am going to the boat on Wednesday to fit it, but tomorrow to check hose sizes and recheck the system for any rubber.

 

As for this new filter it will be placed in a better position, just don't know where yet. 

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5 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Looks clever and promising, the acid test is does it work? I would get it away from the prop, the muck and turbulence you don't need.

 

Pump all sorted now?

TD' 

And make sure you pull it up to polish it every evening?

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That looks fine.You could do with a pan type Vetus type water filter inboard as well, plumbed into the water inlet.Installed just above water level,I think this has been mentioned before.

A tap (shutoff valve) would be a good idea too to prevent water syphoning in if a internal hose comes off or leaks,when the boat is left unattended,although as your water inlet slopes down I don't think there's much danger of that.

Every thing you have been through with your cooling system,I experienced with my last boat,so I understand why you feel pleased with yourself for fixing it.

Just a final thought,the inlet hose outside on the transom needs securing in some way so that you can pull it up to clear the strainer easily.Otherwise it will flop about with the propwash.

 

)

 

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37 minutes ago, Mad Harold said:

That looks fine.You could do with a pan type Vetus type water filter inboard as well, plumbed into the water inlet.Installed just above water level,I think this has been mentioned before.

A tap (shutoff valve) would be a good idea too to prevent water syphoning in if a internal hose comes off or leaks,when the boat is left unattended,although as your water inlet slopes down I don't think there's much danger of that.

Every thing you have been through with your cooling system,I experienced with my last boat,so I understand why you feel pleased with yourself for fixing it.

Just a final thought,the inlet hose outside on the transom needs securing in some way so that you can pull it up to clear the strainer easily.Otherwise it will flop about with the propwash.

 

)

 

Yes I am looking into another filter just past where the rear pipe enters the boat, and I agree with better placement I have an idea but will test that once I get the boat up and running again.

 

If this filter works I am going to make another one and do a swap over once a month to check and clean thoroughly. 

 

I am thinking to change the hose to a see through one to make it easier to observer the flow.

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15 minutes ago, marji said:

Yes I am looking into another filter just past where the rear pipe enters the boat, and I agree with better placement I have an idea but will test that once I get the boat up and running again.

 

If this filter works I am going to make another one and do a swap over once a month to check and clean thoroughly. 

 

I am thinking to change the hose to a see through one to make it easier to observer the flow.

The Vetus filters and I think some others too,have a translucent top,so you can see the water splashing through.

Had a plastic see through hose on mine,but couldn't see the water flow through it because the water was the same colour as the hose and as the flow was continuous,it wasn't possible to discern any movement.

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Your efforts do you credit and that from an old school, (pre CAD, CNC, etc), time served Toolmaker.

 

There is only one comment I would make for anyone else contemplating a similar job: When flattening a job off it is better to adopt a figure of eight motion than a circular one, also rotatate the object in the hand at intervals. Ranbdomness is your friend.

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27 minutes ago, Man 'o Kent said:

Your efforts do you credit and that from an old school, (pre CAD, CNC, etc), time served Toolmaker.

 

There is only one comment I would make for anyone else contemplating a similar job: When flattening a job off it is better to adopt a figure of eight motion than a circular one, also rotatate the object in the hand at intervals. Ranbdomness is your friend.

Thank you very much and of course will take all advice on board, this forum is on another level. ?

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5 minutes ago, marji said:

I have a question, once I assemble the system and seal it all back up, should I fill the heat exchanger water tank up before I start the boat the engine, I assume thats a yes?

Yes and keep and eye on the level, it may glug air bubbles and the level drop. Remember as soon as you have established it does not overheat and has no leaks swap plain water for 30% to 50% antifreeze mixture.

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1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:

Yes and keep and eye on the level, it may glug air bubbles and the level drop. Remember as soon as you have established it does not overheat and has no leaks swap plain water for 30% to 50% antifreeze mixture.

Does it matter what antifreeze Tony?

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Just now, marji said:

Does it matter what antifreeze Tony?

Ideally the same colour as was already in there but if you remove the block drain plug/tap and drain the block plus flush it through with fresh water you can choose. I think the five year life stuff is probably the best value.

 

Note to boats with skin tank owners: its much more difficult for you to get rid of all the old antifreeze but it usually means much more flushing and diluting (dependant upon skin tank location etc.)

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2 hours ago, marji said:

I have a question, once I assemble the system and seal it all back up, should I fill the heat exchanger water tank up before I start the boat the engine, I assume thats a yes?

I read into your post that you don't understand that the water in the engine, under the radiator cap, is totally separate from the water you are drawing in from the river.

Consider the engine as being in a car. The cooling system is sealed with a radiator cap, with antifreeze added. The water gets hot and the heat is dissipated to air in the radiator and dumped into the breeze.

The boat is the same except that the heat is transferred in the heat exchanger matrix to the raw water from outside and dumped overboard.

TD'

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Tracy I do admit I am a bit confused about it, from what I understand, the heat exchanger tank has two purposes first of all the tank section is where the engine water flows and exhaust gas is ejected at the rear through the same water pipe that the raw water flow ejects.

 

Inside the tank the heat exchanger which looks like lots of copper pipes in a sleeve and is a sealed unit, sealed by the two rubber end caps, the reason for this unit is to function as an oil and engine watercooler and the raw (river water) flows through it, and does not come into contact with the engine coolant other than the exhaust gas at the rear, as they share the water pipe exhaust.

 

The antifreeze will go into the heat exchanger housing the "gold cap on top" but will not enter the heat exchanger pipes, but will find its way into the main engine, from that tank.

 

 

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9 hours ago, marji said:

Tracy I do admit I am a bit confused about it, from what I understand, the heat exchanger tank has two purposes first of all the tank section is where the engine water flows and exhaust gas is ejected at the rear through the same water pipe that the raw water flow ejects.

 

Inside the tank the heat exchanger which looks like lots of copper pipes in a sleeve and is a sealed unit, sealed by the two rubber end caps, the reason for this unit is to function as an oil and engine watercooler and the raw (river water) flows through it, and does not come into contact with the engine coolant other than the exhaust gas at the rear, as they share the water pipe exhaust.

 

The antifreeze will go into the heat exchanger housing the "gold cap on top" but will not enter the heat exchanger pipes, but will find its way into the main engine, from that tank.

You have two water paths.  The engine, gearbox etc has an antifreeze mix which circulates round and round. This 'water' passes through the heat exchanger as part of its path.  Also travelling through (the other part of) the heat exchanger is the raw water which pulls the heat out of the engine coolant.  The raw water gets sucked up through your filter, passes through the heat exchanger, and deposits itself into the exhaust to go back into the canal.
 

 

Edited by WotEver
Put the parentheses in the correct place.
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Thanks for all the recent replies.

 

Today I got the hose it is very flexible and has a steel spring core, this will allow me to drop the new filter directly down as it exits the boat, something I could not do in the past due to the very stiff pipe already doing that job, I think if the filter is near to the boat body it should offer some protection from weeds, I have heat tested the pipe in boiling water and it just softens a touch so all good.

 

I am waiting on the antifreeze and a 90 degree hose to arrive in order to complete and test the job. I have been given 2 meters of water exhaust pipe brand new, might as well just change that over.

 

 

 

 

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34 minutes ago, marji said:

Thanks for all the recent replies.

 

Today I got the hose it is very flexible and has a steel spring core, this will allow me to drop the new filter directly down as it exits the boat, something I could not do in the past due to the very stiff pipe already doing that job, I think if the filter is near to the boat body it should offer some protection from weeds, I have heat tested the pipe in boiling water and it just softens a touch so all good.

 

I am waiting on the antifreeze and a 90 degree hose to arrive in order to complete and test the job. I have been given 2 meters of water exhaust pipe brand new, might as well just change that over.

 

 

 

 

You are doing really well. It is hugely encouraging to all that try to help here I am sure.

TD'

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First run using the old filter, had a few leaks nothing but a better placement of the clips and a slight tighten up could not fix, only had to change one elbow pipe.

 

Water pump still has the slow drip. around shaft lock nut area.

 

Video is "LOUD"

 

 

 

 

 

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