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LoneCruiser

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Eh up crew

 

pump outs... I have a dump thru pump out loo... which I have been fortunate enough not to have had to use too often, due to local facilities.. now having to make more use of it... it has no gauge and I have only used it 3 or 4 times... the tank is 320 lites but on looking thru, when trap door is open it seems full.. am peeing into a bottle to cut capacity... just how do you know when it’s full?  The last time it was at this level I took it to the pump out station and hardly anything came out... could it be solidified down below??

 

answers please on an Andrex !!!

 

best 

David

  

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Open the ball, stir it with a stick to find out.

If you are not putting urine in , it will consolidate the solids and not evacuate with the pump out.

Dump a bottle of liquid biological laundry detergent in , it will break up the solids in about a week.

With a dump through you will probably want to use a biocide to kill odours, standard blue is OK but expensive. You will do better using Jeyes Fluid, a capful a day will be enough.

Once you get it cleaned out it will stay liqhid and pump out OK, lack of use will result in it fouling up again.

Even with a bit of attention required its much better than carrying boxes of effluent around everyday.

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Well...you saying that... when I bought my wee ships, 3 years ago It came with a full tank of p***h thrown in, and I was listing a bit.. my sail up the cut to empty took a lot longer up than heading back... with both your advice messages I might be okay for a while longer... at £18 for CRT pumpouts I want me monies worth.. talk about spending a penny !!!

 

thank you 

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1 minute ago, LoneCruiser said:

I take it you are of the pump out variety too!!

Oh, is it obvious?

But I would not have a dump through loo.

A sea toilet on a pump out is super, no smells,no chemicals, no hassles.

TD'

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We start looking for a place to pump out when the level is about 1" below the bottom of the plastic fitting that protrudes into the tank below the loo. That is about 2 days remaining capacity for us, as we fill it by about half an inch per day, but there is another 2 days available in dire emergency because that fitting dips into the tank by over 1" more.

 

If yours won't pump out, it is most likely a blockage or solidification if it hasn't been used much, and the ways to solve it are as above. One other possibility (which happened to us) is that the tube inside the tank could have rusted through, near to the top; it doesn't need to have rusted right away, just a small rust-hole or other leak is enough to stop if from working.

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3 minutes ago, Keeping Up said:

We start looking for a place to pump out when the level is about 1" below the bottom of the plastic fitting that protrudes into the tank below the loo. That is about 2 days remaining capacity for us, as we fill it by about half an inch per day, but there is another 2 days available in dire emergency because that fitting dips into the tank by over 1" more.

 

If yours won't pump out, it is most likely a blockage or solidification if it hasn't been used much, and the ways to solve it are as above. One other possibility (which happened to us) is that the tube inside the tank could have rusted through, near to the top; it doesn't need to have rusted right away, just a small rust-hole or other leak is enough to stop if from working.

The first time I pumped out. The “extra” that came with the boat, there was a torrent, and I was listing... I have never really studied the levels before, as I said previous, I had access to a “land loo”... I might still have some capacity, as I’m not on “tilt” yet?.. quite level to be honest, but it just looks kind of full ?

10 minutes ago, Keeping Up said:

We start looking for a place to pump out when the level is about 1" below the bottom of the plastic fitting that protrudes into the tank below the loo. That is about 2 days remaining capacity for us, as we fill it by about half an inch per day, but there is another 2 days available in dire emergency because that fitting dips into the tank by over 1" more.

 

If yours won't pump out, it is most likely a blockage or solidification if it hasn't been used much, and the ways to solve it are as above. One other possibility (which happened to us) is that the tube inside the tank could have rusted through, near to the top; it doesn't need to have rusted right away, just a small rust-hole or other leak is enough to stop if from working.

Is this the tube where you insert the vacuum pipe to?

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10 minutes ago, LoneCruiser said:

I might still have some capacity, as I’m not on “tilt” yet?.. quite level to be honest, but it just looks kind of full

Don't forget that you will have a pyramid below your dump-hole.

Open it up, get a stick and push it about to try and flatten the heap.

If reusing the stick from previous efforts make sure you get hold of the correct 'end'.

 

Guess where the saying "getting the sh!tty end of the stick comes from"

 

Cannot be doing with all that - cassette EVERY time for us.

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Open the ball, stir it with a stick to find out.

 

I’ve just done the “pooh stick” test you mentioned... about half an inch deep at the bottom of the plastic pipe dipping into the tank.. the contents seem to flow to the right at the bottom of said plastic pipe!!! 

 

Edited by LoneCruiser
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Perhaps it's my engineering background but I like to know 'how much' rather than 'help we neet a Pumpout Now, thus I have a graduated stick (not a pointed-stick) that tells me "Ow Much??".

 

Another trick is to put your magic fluid / whatever, in the tank just after you've pumped out and it'll (should) eat it's way through the nasty stuff - umm- as you deliver it.

Most / Many of the pumpout machines were made by that Nice Mr Coburn's previous company and it takes a helluva lot to bkock them up. I've had tales of large pieces of clothing and similar not-eaten-material blocking the units on the Thames, but if it's been eaten first - they can cope.

 

Never,never,never - despite what it says on the tin use 'Blue' in a pumpout loo. It's designed for cassete loos and just kills 'all known germs' as well as the unknown ones. You need something to break up the solids and encourage the good bacterial to do its stuff.

End of Sermon.

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6 minutes ago, OldGoat said:

Perhaps it's my engineering background but I like to know 'how much' rather than 'help we neet a Pumpout Now, thus I have a graduated stick (not a pointed-stick) that tells me "Ow Much??".

 

Another trick is to put your magic fluid / whatever, in the tank just after you've pumped out and it'll (should) eat it's way through the nasty stuff - umm- as you deliver it.

Most / Many of the pumpout machines were made by that Nice Mr Coburn's previous company and it takes a helluva lot to bkock them up. I've had tales of large pieces of clothing and similar not-eaten-material blocking the units on the Thames, but if it's been eaten first - they can cope.

 

Never,never,never - despite what it says on the tin use 'Blue' in a pumpout loo. It's designed for cassete loos and just kills 'all known germs' as well as the unknown ones. You need something to break up the solids and encourage the good bacterial to do its stuff.

End of Sermon.

Thank you...

 

your excellent advice, as that of all the other lovely boaters on here has been noted !!!

 

thank you once again

 

pS... apart from jeyes and water softener.. what do you suggest? To encourage the good guys?

 

 

Edited by LoneCruiser
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Iuse Trichem BR1 laundry detergent. It's very, very expensive, so I guess nobody will go out and buy it. It's designd fo heavy duty hospital / laundry applications and is very environmentally friendly. You only need a small quaitity (20-30ccs) per dose. (Ibought an industrial polytank with some dregs in the bottom and was impressed...

A cheaper and more easily obtainable answer is Tesco Oxy powder - as has been reccommended on here some time ago. It worked OK for us.

 

Jeys fluid is pretty useless IMHO and the same goes for water softener.

 You need something to get the good bugs dancing - not kill them stone dead!

 

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1 minute ago, OldGoat said:

Iuse Trichem BR1 laundry detergent. It's very, very expensive, so I guess nobody will go out and buy it. It's designd fo heavy duty hospital / laundry applications and is very environmentally friendly. You only need a small quaitity (20-30ccs) per dose. (Ibought an industrial polytank with some dregs in the bottom and was impressed...

A cheaper and more easily obtainable answer is Tesco Oxy powder - as has been reccommended on here some time ago. It worked OK for us.

 

Jeys fluid is pretty useless IMHO and the same goes for water softener.

 You need something to get the good bugs dancing - not kill them stone dead!

 

Thank you ??... duly noted!!!

eternally grateful

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Over the years in our dump-through we have used Elsan Blue (smelly and ineffective, never ever again!), Elsan Green (expensive smelly and totally ineffective), farmers' biological Septic tank fluid (very good, cheap, and effective; but now only available in excessively large quantities), yeast (good and cheap, but prone to solidification if left alone for too long), and a few other proprietary brands. One of the best we've found is Odourlos; it's very effective (although it's not quite as good as it was a couple years ago when they changed the formula) fairly cheap and widely available.

 

Contrary to the opinions that you'll see on here a lot, a simple dump-through doesn't smell if the tank is well-vented and the bowl seals are in good condition. It's a good idea to close the lid when flushing (helps ensure waste gases go out through the vent) and don't spend hours gazing through the hole to admire the contents!

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10 minutes ago, Keeping Up said:

Over the years in our dump-through we have used Elsan Blue (smelly and ineffective, never ever again!), Elsan Green (expensive smelly and totally ineffective), farmers' biological Septic tank fluid (very good, cheap, and effective; but now only available in excessively large quantities), yeast (good and cheap, but prone to solidification if left alone for too long), and a few other proprietary brands. One of the best we've found is Odourlos; it's very effective (although it's not quite as good as it was a couple years ago when they changed the formula) fairly cheap and widely available.

 

Contrary to the opinions that you'll see on here a lot, a simple dump-through doesn't smell if the tank is well-vented and the bowl seals are in good condition. It's a good idea to close the lid when flushing (helps ensure waste gases go out through the vent) and don't spend hours gazing through the hole to admire the contents!

Priceless... another excellent reply.. I really do have no smell !!! Maybe I am doing somat right.. but I will try and refrain from gazing into space .. well whatever space is left ?

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5 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

Easily done :

 

Empty tank

Remove toilet

Seal up 'hole'

Fit cassette toilet

 

No more pump-out bills to pay - EVER !

Oh that has been on my mind!!! But what happens to the empty tank? Does it need treating? Does it need removing ? Also need to cap off the water inlet supply.. no plumber am I !!!

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43 minutes ago, LoneCruiser said:

Oh that has been on my mind!!! But what happens to the empty tank? Does it need treating? Does it need removing ? Also need to cap off the water inlet supply.. no plumber am I !!!

Yes, to the bold above.

The rest depends..

Some are dump through, some have part of the tank projecting through into the next 'room'.

If the latter, there have bee reports of difficulties in removing the tank.

Some (as are mine) extend) in the same room and thus - possibly - easier to remove; whatever  - you still have to empty thye dregs, often by hand (ugh!)

 

The salient point is that any other type of loo is designed  (height wise) to sit on the floor, thus the whole old tank has to be removed.

If the reason is because of 'sensibilities' it might be a case of "Lie back and think of England"  and put up with the inconvenience, if the alternative fixing process becomes expensive / impracticable. 

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1 hour ago, OldGoat said:

Yes, to the bold above.

The rest depends..

Some are dump through, some have part of the tank projecting through into the next 'room'.

If the latter, there have bee reports of difficulties in removing the tank.

Some (as are mine) extend) in the same room and thus - possibly - easier to remove; whatever  - you still have to empty thye dregs, often by hand (ugh!)

 

The salient point is that any other type of loo is designed  (height wise) to sit on the floor, thus the whole old tank has to be removed.

If the reason is because of 'sensibilities' it might be a case of "Lie back and think of England"  and put up with the inconvenience, if the alternative fixing process becomes expensive / impracticable. 

My waste tank seems to extend across from port to starboard, under the walkway and stops at my kitchen sink unit..  meaning partitioning to bathroom, floor and sink unit would need removing, also slate bathroom floor... hmmmmm!!! And maybe even the radiator? Maybe try a plan b of some type ... off for a cycle now and a ponder!!! 

Edited by LoneCruiser
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