Cost to stretch a NB hull ?

[W+T]

If a steel hull ( hull only ) of a NB was to be stretched from 45` to 57`  and i supplied material to site is the anybody who is willing to give me a quote,to do so the boat is in Lymme Cheshire.   The boat has been over plated to above water line about 5 years ago.

 

Or can anybody put me in contact with anybody that can/will do it. 

 

Captain Faffer  

[OldGoat]

14 minutes ago, W+T said:

If a steel hull ( hull only ) of a NB was to be stretched from 45` to 57`  and i supplied material to site is the anybody who is willing to give me a quote,to do so the boat is in Lymme Cheshire.   The boat has been over plated to above water line about 5 years ago.

 

Or can anybody put me in contact with anybody that can/will do it. 

 

Captain Faffer  

AARRGGHH! A challenge for any one - overplating a sound hull is one thing, stiching a 2 ply hull is quite a challenge.

 

Calling Martin Kedian - hello, hello??

 

It's a huge ask...

Surely someone will shoot me down..

[W+T]

1 hour ago, OldGoat said:

AARRGGHH! A challenge for any one - overplating a sound hull is one thing, stiching a 2 ply hull is quite a challenge.

 

Calling Martin Kedian - hello, hello??

 

It's a huge ask...

Surely someone will shoot me down..

I always look at things being doable, which it probably is but more hassle no doubt. 

 

If i was to do it, i would make the cut right through, then cut back a foot or so the original plate then add new plate to the overplate, and then weld up the original to over plate. sound easy but hey ho lol.

[sharpness]

1 hour ago, OldGoat said:

AARRGGHH! A challenge for any one - overplating a sound hull is one thing, stiching a 2 ply hull is quite a challenge.

 

 

It would be even trickier if it was a V bottomed Springer!!

[matty40s]

Normally  the quote would be £1k per foot, as above, stretching an already patched boat enters a whole new area. Which hull do you weld to, or do you build the sides and bottom of the new section in thicker plate to match??

[ditchcrawler]

3 minutes ago, matty40s said:

Normally  the quote would be £1k per foot, as above, stretching an already patched boat enters a whole new area. Which hull do you weld to, or do you build the sides and bottom of the new section in thicker plate to match??

And do you put your name to the job when its finished 

[W+T]

11 hours ago, matty40s said:

Normally  the quote would be £1k per foot, as above, stretching an already patched boat enters a whole new area. Which hull do you weld to, or do you build the sides and bottom of the new section in thicker plate to match??

That sounds a bit OTT just for welding/stretching a hull, they build a new a NB for that price fitted out, well so i thought. 

 

[Alan de Enfield]

6 minutes ago, W+T said:

That sounds a bit OTT just for welding/stretching a hull, they build a new a NB for that price fitted out, well so i thought. 

 

There is a lot less work in building a new house, than there is in knocking down, clearing the site and re-building it.

 

Most house insurances will cover for approximately 2x the value of the house to allow for total destruction and site clearance on top of the rebuilding costs.

 

The same with a shed, a car or a boat - preparatory work will be a huge percentage of the cost of repairs.

[GUMPY]

Steel work to add 10ft to Parglena was £15k back in 2005 but that was including cranes etc and Parglena is slightly larger than a NB.

Fit out if the 10ft cost nearly the same again even with me doing most of the work.

[W+T]

Well looks like if i do it i will be doing in all myself lol. get my rig out i guess and warm up the welding skills..  Joking i would see if some would do the welding once i have tacked it will up. 

[TheBiscuits]

I keep telling you it's not worth stretching that one, and I spent weeks looking at it!

 

The overplating is sound, and the boat wouldn't be worth any more if it was longer.

 

Put a steel cabin on it, fit it out and sell it is what that boat wants.  You could even put a cabin on and sell it as a vintage sailaway so the buyer can fit it out themselves on the way to London

 

 

[W+T]

5 hours ago, TheBiscuits said:

I keep telling you it's not worth stretching that one, and I spent weeks looking at it!

 

The overplating is sound, and the boat wouldn't be worth any more if it was longer.

 

Put a steel cabin on it, fit it out and sell it is what that boat wants.  You could even put a cabin on and sell it as a vintage sailaway so the buyer can fit it out themselves on the way to London

 

 

 

I didnt know you did, or if you did i didnt realise you are so stuck on it not being worth it.  Its worth depending on cost. Must be. if i get somebody else to do a full job then yes if they want £12k plus to do it.  If i did the work myself, all the prep, and tacked up to be welded then that could change things. 

 

At the minute though its staying as it is and fitting a steel top  

[TheBiscuits]

1 hour ago, W+T said:

 

I didnt know you did, or if you did i didnt realise you are so stuck on it not being worth it.  Its worth depending on cost. Must be. if i get somebody else to do a full job then yes if they want £12k plus to do it.  If i did the work myself, all the prep, and tacked up to be welded then that could change things. 

 

At the minute though its staying as it is and fitting a steel top  

Makes sense for that boat.  I have no objection to stretching boats in general, it's just that that one isn't worth the effort involved.  If it hadn't already been well overplated, it might have been worth stretching at the same time but it's daft to undo that much sound work for another ten feet.

 

There was 57 ft Harborough boat sold on here a few weeks ago the seller was asking  £3,500 for, with a working engine.  Didn't hang about long at that money, but they do come up every now and then around that level.  That's about what your bare shell would be worth after you stretched it!

 

A steel cabin added, painted and fitted out to your standards would be an entirely different thing.  You can always buy T a better boat when you've sold the current two or three!

 

 

 

 

[Machpoint005]

7 hours ago, TheBiscuits said:

I keep telling you it's not worth stretching that one, and I spent weeks looking at it!

 

The overplating is sound, and the boat wouldn't be worth any more if it was longer.

 

Put a steel cabin on it, fit it out and sell it is what that boat wants.  You could even put a cabin on and sell it as a vintage sailaway so the buyer can fit it out themselves on the way to London

 

 

 

I've often wondered why a boat gets "stretched" when it would be far easier (and probably cheaper) to sell it and buy a longer one.

It may be some kind of emotional attachment to what is basically a floating steel box, but I just don't get it.

 

 

[TheBiscuits]

5 minutes ago, Machpoint005 said:

 

I've often wondered why a boat gets "stretched" when it would be far easier (and probably cheaper) to sell it and buy a longer one.

It may be some kind of emotional attachment to what is basically a floating steel box, but I just don't get it.

 

 

 

That's the one.  It usually ends in tears because in many cases the boat handles totally differently afterwards, and if it was originally a real pig to handle then it wouldn't usually get stretched!

 

One of the forumites stretched their much loved boat and it handled better afterwards, but I can't remember who it was.

 

It's fiddly to fit out the new bit too, as you need to reconnect all the services and carry panelling through the already fitted bits to the new piece.  I don't think I'd do it myself - as you say, just buy a different one that's close to what you want.

 

[W+T]

We are talking just to stretch a hull here.

[Tracy D'arth]

Easier way is to cut one end off, usually the stern just forward of the engine, make room for a longer engine, and put a new stern swims and correct size skin tanks on using the existing deck and bulkhead.

They used to do this at Wigan, constructing a new stern completely. I have thought of doing this to convert unwanted unloved pointless semitrads to trads with a large and small rear roof hatches. 

Pipe dreams now, I don;t think I could cope with all the welding, it gets so boring, rod after rod after rod........................................

TD'

[GUMPY]

When your boat is unique, as Parglena is, if you want more room you have no choice but to stretch it.

It was in hindsight the best decision I made, the boat was more to scale (5/7 copy of a Duker Barge) it was too short for its beam beforehand. It handled way better after the work . As for matching the fit out I would have challenged anyone to spot which was old and which was new on the inside, it took many months of experimentation to get the stain colours correct. You could see welds on the outside so that was a giveaway.

 

ETA. I sold Parglena in 2012

 

Edited July 12, 2020 by Loddon

[W+T]

A though on this.

 

When i looked over the boat the over plating looked a good thickness.

 

I plan to remove the ply/grp superstructure and weld on a new steel superstructure. Would this be then to heavy ?  Its difficult to tell i guess.  

[TheBiscuits]

7 minutes ago, W+T said:

A though on this.

 

When i looked over the boat the over plating looked a good thickness.

 

I plan to remove the ply/grp superstructure and weld on a new steel superstructure. Would this be then to heavy ?  Its difficult to tell i guess.  

 

No, but the boat will need ballasting correctly afterwards for trim more than depth.

 

As it's sitting too high in the water at the moment it might be right after the cabin and fitout go on if you're lucky.

 

The overplating will help keep the boat the right way up, and it'll have been done in either 5mm or 6mm plate, so it'll be sound for another 30 years if it's looked after.

 

[TheBiscuits]

 

Have an "after" picture!  Same shell, but looks well cared for.

 

[Machpoint005]

One result of the "stretching" has been the random appearance of the window positions.

Just my opinion, like.

[Keeping Up]

Make sure you measure carefully, then cut and join it straight. Our first boat Thistle was lengthened from 48ft to 58ft 6in before we bought her. Having lain on the bottom for a while she needed internal refitting anyway. She was supposed to be 60ft after the lengthening but they measured to the wrong side of a cupboard and it wasn't until they'd finished that they realised she was only 58ft 6in - but at least that made the L&L canal easier. The end result was that after being straight for 38ft from the stern, she turned left by about 5 degrees for the next 10ft 6in and then also angled up by about 10 degrees for the final 10ft to the now extra-high Harborough bows. Handling characteristics were interesting; she always veered to the left, and was very predictable in reverse as long as that was the way you wanted to go!

Edited July 14, 2020 by Keeping Up

[Tracy D'arth]

10 minutes ago, Keeping Up said:

Make sure you measure carefully, then cut and join it straight. Our first boat Thistle was lengthened from 48ft to 58ft 6in before we bought her. Having lain on the bottom for a while she needed internal refitting anyway. She was supposed to be 60ft after the lengthening but they measured to the wrong side of a cupboard and it wasn't until they'd finished that they realised she was only 58ft 6in - but at least that made the L&L canal easier. The end result was that after being straight for 38ft from the stern, she turned left by about 5 degrees for the next 10ft 6in and then also angled up by about 10 degrees for the final 10ft to the now extra-high Harborough bows. Handling characteristics were interesting; she always veered to the left, and was very predictable in reverse as long as that was the way you wanted to go!

A Big OOOOps then?  Dare we know who stretched it, just to avoid them you know.

TD'

[Keeping Up]

6 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

A Big OOOOps then?  Dare we know who stretched it, just to avoid them you know.

TD'

I think it was just a diy job, on the bank side near the top of the Ashby.