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Lister sr2 engine oil and fuel filter change.


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Would anyone be able to walk me through how to change the oil and fuel filter on an sr2 , something i should probably learn how to do my self after buying my first boat last week.

 

Engine oil:

 

The dipstick has a number 8 on, but the black oil is only at the very end and there are no indicators where to fill (which makes sense given that the tube only goes in to the very bottom of the engine?)

Does it look like the oil needs to be changed?

 

So i run the engine for half an hour to heat the oil up

 

 There is a large black handle connected to a copper pipe also going to the bottom of the engine which I'm hoping is what will pump the old oil out? Do i need any other equipment to do that?

 

I then pour the new oil in to either of the two filler caps on top of the engine. Do i need to switch the decompresser levers on top to do this?

 

I am using 5 litres of multigrade mobil 15/40 engine oil , as i have read that any modern diesel oil will be fine on such an old engine?

 

 

Fuel filter :

 

i am using a MANN P651X filter which is apparently an alternative to the acd60 used on Listers

 

I'm unsure of how to release the filter tray from the  filter assembly? I was expecting to see a nut in the middle that would drop it underneath in to a bag i place there, but there are several

 

I am unsure of exactly how and if i need to "bleed the fuel system" after replacing the filter , and which nut should be loosened on the filter assembly to do this ? (There is an arrow pointing to one)

 

Am I on the right track or getting the wrong end of the (dip) stick? ?

 

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Edited by Spoonman
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No - the large black handle is there for something else.... (dunno what)

There ought-to-be a pipe going under the engine connected to a girt bigh handle (looks like a tap = faucet at the end..

Must go as the Management has called me to attention...

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The black handle shown in the second picture looks like it is the sump pump to drain the oil from the engine. Just check a pipe comes from the bottom of pump and goes to the sump. In the first picture showing the dipstick it is showing way too much oil in the engine. There are 2 marks on th dipstick which relate to maximum and minimum levels. The number 8 on the dipstick is just the Lister identification mark. As far as the oil goes you should be using a low spec (API CC) mineral oil. The fuel filter has a bolt on the underside of the bowl which when unscrewed will allow the bowl to be removed and give access to filter element. The system will need bleeding. If you are lucky you will get away with just bleeding at the filter unit with the small bleed screws on the top. If unlucky you will also have to bleed at the fuel injection pumps.

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On 10/07/2020 at 20:21, Steve56 said:

The black handle shown in the second picture looks like it is the sump pump to drain the oil from the engine. Just check a pipe comes from the bottom of pump and goes to the sump. In the first picture showing the dipstick it is showing way too much oil in the engine. There are 2 marks on th dipstick which relate to maximum and minimum levels. The number 8 on the dipstick is just the Lister identification mark. As far as the oil goes you should be using a low spec (API CC) mineral oil. The fuel filter has a bolt on the underside of the bowl which when unscrewed will allow the bowl to be removed and give access to filter element. The system will need bleeding. If you are lucky you will get away with just bleeding at the filter unit with the small bleed screws on the top. If unlucky you will also have to bleed at the fuel injection pumps.

Thanks very much for the response.

The black handle does indeed pump out the oil from the sump, it just seemed too convenient to be true!

 

The dipstick picture was my error i had not wiped it clean and after dipping it again the oil was between the two markers you mentioned.

 

I might have to have a rethink about the type of oil i use. I am seeing conflicting advice regarding this, some advicing to use api cc spec oil that would have been around when the engine was made, others saying any modern synthetic diesel oil will be better than anything they had back then.

. Is there potential to cause damage to the engine if i use a higher spec oil?

 

In regards to bleeding the fuel system is it a case of: 

 

Replace the filter

 

Untighten  either? of the bleed screws on top of the filter assembly

 

Run the engine so that diesel with bubbles in it appears from these screws 

 

When the diesel runs clear with out bubbles tighten it back up.

 

How will i know if this was successful and where can i find the fuel injection pump if i have to bleed it at that point instead?

 

Thanks again for the help.

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Whatever you do, don't  use synthetic oil. Stick with mineral oil only. The API CC is readily available. 

When bleeding the filter loosen the bleed screws on the top of the filter and then use the manual lever on the fuel lift pump to fill the filter. Make sure all the air is out before tightening the bleed screws. Do not attempt to start the engine until all the air is removed.

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15 minutes ago, Steve56 said:

Whatever you do, don't  use synthetic oil. Stick with mineral oil only. The API CC is readily available. 

When bleeding the filter loosen the bleed screws on the top of the filter and then use the manual lever on the fuel lift pump to fill the filter. Make sure all the air is out before tightening the bleed screws. Do not attempt to start the engine until all the air is removed.

Echo the above.

Do NOT use semi- or fully synthetic olis  as noted earler there are supplies of 15/40 oil around from motor factors and occasionally even ASDA.

 

Synth: oils are just too slipery fir older engines and IMO just run down the bores leaving metal to metal contact. 

Lubrication  is quite a complex subject and difficult to explain. A better man than I got very cross when I suggested using 10/40 and he'd be in the engine industry for a long time ...

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