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Well deck fitting out


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I am thinking about using 12/18mm phenol board (birch ply?) to construct a step or seating, doubling as cover for coal and a few logs, how do I go about it?

Thanks in anticipation.

Do I need brackets welded to hull?

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18 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I am thinking about using 12/18mm phenol board (birch ply?) to construct a step or seating, doubling as cover for coal and a few logs, how do I go about it?

Thanks in anticipation.

Do I need brackets welded to hull?

phenolic ply is birch ply with a resin coating.

 

you can screw and glue hardwood bearers to the hull, bolt on steel brackets or weld steel brackets               .................................  'sup to u.

 

your question is similar to 'how long is a piece of string?'

 

how would they do it in Kansas?

Edited by Murflynn
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16 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I am thinking about using 12/18mm phenol board (birch ply?) to construct a step or seating, doubling as cover for coal and a few logs, how do I go about it?

Thanks in anticipation.

Do I need brackets welded to hull?

For something like that stick wooden batton frames to the steel hullwith a grab adhesive like Gripfill.

 

17 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I am thinking about using 12/18mm phenol board (birch ply?) to construct a step or seating, doubling as cover for coal and a few logs, how do I go about it?

Thanks in anticipation.

Do I need brackets welded to hull?

teels

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6 minutes ago, bizzard said:

For something like that stick wooden batton frames to the steel hullwith a grab adhesive like Gripfill.

 

 

Don't use Gripfill, it's too brittle for boats. Use Stixall from Toolstation or Marineflex

 

Also resist the temptation to drill or screw anything into your gas locker bulkhead as some examiners may see this as a breach of its gas-tight integrity even if you seal it with an approved sealant.

Edited by blackrose
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2 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

Don't use Gripfill, it's too brittle for boats. Use Stixall from Toolstation or Marineflex

Resist the temptation to drill or screw anything into your gas locker bulkhead as some examiners may see this as a breach of it's gas-tight integrity even if you seal it with an approved sealant.

I stuck two battons for a shelf in a steel privvy, it still had the toilet roll holder in it. I stood in it holding both battons in place for 5 minutes and then put a plank across. This was about 15 years ago, very heavy engine parts on the shelf, hasn't fallen down yet.  Stixall, Sikaflex, Marine flex is good though, as is Gorilla glue.

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10 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

Don't use Gripfill, it's too brittle for boats. Use Stixall from Toolstation or Marineflex

 

Also resist the temptation to drill or screw anything into your gas locker bulkhead as some examiners may see this as a breach of its gas-tight integrity even if you seal it with an approved sealant.

It was a hammer and chisel job to remove the wood I stuck to the steel. split the wood away and then work down to the glue. 

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Also a bloke here a few years ago fitted out a L/Pool boats narrowboat. He was a builder and purloined Gripfill from his firm for nothing. He litterally stuck the whole inside together with it, and stuck the chimney collar on with it. He must have had over 50 or 60 empty tubes left over. As far as I know it's still all holding together. I was expecting all the interior to open up like a blooming tulip.

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If you well deck is not self draining but as is now common goes almost down to the base plate do not drill holes through from the inside to bolt the timbers supports

5 minutes ago, bizzard said:

Also a bloke here a few years ago fitted out a L/Pool boats narrowboat. He was a builder and purloined Gripfill from his firm for nothing. He litterally stuck the whole inside together with it, and stuck the chimney collar on with it. He must have had over 50 or 60 empty tubes left over. As far as I know it's still all holding together. I was expecting all the interior to open up like a blooming tulip.

I know a chap who held his internal joinery together with one of those glue heat gun things, with like little sticks of plastic that go through them and comes out stick, drys in seconds, that didn't work to well midsummer and needed some remedial work

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9 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

If you well deck is not self draining but as is now common goes almost down to the base plate do not drill holes through from the inside to bolt the timbers supports

I know a chap who held his internal joinery together with one of those glue heat gun things, with like little sticks of plastic that go through them and comes out stick, drys in seconds, that didn't work to well midsummer and needed some remedial work

This would be the trouble with that stuff. Everything could suddenly all spring violently apart trapping the owner in his chair watching telly. Trapped like in a Crocodlies mouth by backwards slanting teeth, never to escape and perish.

Edited by bizzard
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29 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

It was a hammer and chisel job to remove the wood I stuck to the steel. split the wood away and then work down to the glue. 

But had the vibrations and resonance been in that area it may have been a different story. Within a system of materials it's extremely difficult to know where those areas of vibration will be focused.

 

I knew a bloke who stuck battens up with Pinkgrip and some fell off.

Edited by blackrose
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26 minutes ago, bizzard said:

Also a bloke here a few years ago fitted out a L/Pool boats narrowboat. He was a builder and purloined Gripfill from his firm for nothing. He litterally stuck the whole inside together with it, and stuck the chimney collar on with it. He must have had over 50 or 60 empty tubes left over. As far as I know it's still all holding together. I was expecting all the interior to open up like a blooming tulip.

 

So in other words you knew a bloke who did it all wrong but got away with it.

 

Ok, but bad practice is not what we should be recommending here surely? 

 

Ultimately people can do what they want with their own boats. Carry on by all means...

Edited by blackrose
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Just now, blackrose said:

 

So in other words you knew a bloke who did it all wrong but got away with it.

 

Ok, but that's not what we should be recommending surely? 

He did. He was chucking out empty Gripfill tubes into a big box on the bank like spent matchsticks.

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36 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

Do you want the doors to swing open ?

what is best?

If I get fancy oak doors I want to show them off.

but safest to have seating full length

aha, seat 10 inches wide , doors open fully.

Edited by LadyG
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  • 1 month later...

UPDATE

Thorne Boat Services did the job, involved welding brackets and angle iron support under phenol ply, curved, epoxied edges, very smart, very strong.

One door swings back flat, one does not, due to door lip, usual boaty compromise.

I will be having rear doors lined in same [brown] board.

Edited by LadyG
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