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Any one 'have welder will travel'


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Hi all

 

I posted recently about a chimney issue, specifically a collar issue. Anyway, I found the bolts underneath, and of course I can't get one off as it's either rusted the bolt away or it's neither a size 11 or 12mm (not sure what imperial sizes are). Anyway it's rotted. So I need a new collar, chief and the plate thing underneath (on ceiling). My fears are that it might need a plate of some kind as previous owners had glued wood to the top which has of course rotted the metal over time. 

I'm based just near White Bear marina on the Leeds Liverfool. 

 

Will obviously pay whatever, but I'm trying to keep it from going in to a marina engineers, as I don't want my hat nailed on.

 

Anyone?

 

Ta

Tony

 

 

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Buy a new collar, preferably larger than the existing to cover the hole in the roof.

Mounting on wood is normal, wedge shaped to get the flange at the correct angle to compensate for the roof shape.

Hard wood is the way to go, even making it bigger if the roof is too badly rusted. Then you don't need a welder! I found Limekiln good for roof flue collars.

 

There are a couple of boat fixers near you on the L&L.

TD'

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Mounting on wood is not really normal, sometimes this is used with a non angled collar to compensate for the roof curve, have seen it on self fit Liverpool/Collingwood boats due to the more curved than standard roof.

  What collar is on, straight or angled?

 Can you not grind/cut the underneath nut/bolt off? I know space may be tight, but once off and the seal broke between roof and collar, it should just lift off??

 

 

 

 

Edited by PD1964
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1 hour ago, PD1964 said:

Mounting on wood is not really normal, sometimes this is used with a non angled collar to compensate for the roof curve, have seen it on self fit Liverpool/Collingwood boats due to the more curved than standard roof.

  What collar is on, straight or angled?

 Can you not grind/cut the underneath nut/bolt off? I know space may be tight, but once off and the seal broke between roof and collar, it should just lift off??

 

 

 

 

I think the wood has been put in place to stop it leaking, as there's also loads of gunk inbetween the collar and ceiling as well. I think it's straight, I've never seen an angled one. The flu pipe goes straight up. I've seen the collar's on eBay for about £50-70. The side of the collar looks messy, though. Looks like it leaks through the rust, so could do with a metal plate putting in at the same time the new collar would go on. Save it doing it in the future. 

I doubt I'd get a grinder in, but might be able to get a hand-blade in. I'm going to have to give it a go. It's. Not helping that the stove is still connected to pipe, as was well and truly packed at the flu port at the back. 

 

I should have taken photos when I was there today! 

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I managed to take the collar off, I used a Dremel and elbow grease, and was still stubborn.

My issue now is, I have a 4" flue, but the previous collar has a 5" gap, but the circumference of the metal is 6". So, is this a 6" collar or 5?. I also noticed there was a gap of around an inch or so when the flue was in the previous collar. 

 

IMG-20200708-WA0001.jpg

Screenshot_20200711-110309.png

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On 04/07/2020 at 18:11, Tony Custard said:

I think the wood has been put in place to stop it leaking, as there's also loads of gunk inbetween the collar and ceiling as well. I think it's straight, I've never seen an angled one. The flu pipe goes straight up. I've seen the collar's on eBay for about £50-70. The side of the collar looks messy, though. Looks like it leaks through the rust, so could do with a metal plate putting in at the same time the new collar would go on. Save it doing it in the future. 

I doubt I'd get a grinder in, but might be able to get a hand-blade in. I'm going to have to give it a go. It's. Not helping that the stove is still connected to pipe, as was well and truly packed at the flu port at the back. 

 

I should have taken photos when I was there today! 

 

You have to really look closely to see if its angled or straight. The tapers on the cast spigots tend to make it difficult to see the angle the flange relative to the centre bore.

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1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

You have to really look closely to see if its angled or straight. The tapers on the cast spigots tend to make it difficult to see the angle the flange relative to the centre bore.

That was like Welsh, sorry. The flue pipe is slightly angled at the top. Are you talking about the collar being angled or the flue?

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18 minutes ago, Tony Custard said:

That was like Welsh, sorry. The flue pipe is slightly angled at the top. Are you talking about the collar being angled or the flue?

I am talking about the flange on the collar being set at an angle to the axis of the flue bosses or flue pipe if the pipe was fitted parallel to the bosses. If you but from a decent chandler you get the choice of angled or straight.

 

I expect your flue is angled at the top because it was pushed up through the collar and then set down in the stove collar. The flues are usually too long so it was cut flush with the top of the collar boss. Because the flue sat at an angle and so did the collar the top of the flue would end be cut at an angle.

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30 minutes ago, Tony Custard said:

That was like Welsh, sorry.

Is this better ?

 

Mae'n rhaid i chi edrych yn agos mewn gwirionedd i weld a yw'n onglog neu'n syth. Mae'r tapwyr ar y sbigotau cast yn tueddu i'w gwneud hi'n anodd gweld ongl y flange o'i gymharu â thwll y ganolfan.

  • Haha 1
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35 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

I am talking about the flange on the collar being set at an angle to the axis of the flue bosses or flue pipe if the pipe was fitted parallel to the bosses. If you but from a decent chandler you get the choice of angled or straight.

 

I expect your flue is angled at the top because it was pushed up through the collar and then set down in the stove collar. The flues are usually too long so it was cut flush with the top of the collar boss. Because the flue sat at an angle and so did the collar the top of the flue would end be cut at an angle.

The flue definitely has a designed angle at the top, for about 12". I have taken the collar off and it looks flat to me. I'll take a photo. Which is a bit difficult as I can only upload 2.8meg on here, which is below the lowest setting on the camera. 

 

 

 

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10 minutes ago, Tony Custard said:

The flue definitely has a designed angle at the top, for about 12". I have taken the collar off and it looks flat to me. I'll take a photo. Which is a bit difficult as I can only upload 2.8meg on here, which is below the lowest setting on the camera. 

 

 

 

Do you mean the flue pipe has been cut and welded to form an angle in the run. If so that may be because it is a flat roof collar.

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8 minutes ago, Tony Custard said:

Possibly, I don't think it was cut, though. It looks like it was made that way. Although, it could have been. 

This looks flat to me, how minor is the angle?

IMG_20200711_1310158.jpg

As I said it can be very difficult to tell if is flat or angled. Anyway you need to view it from end on, not side on and even better with a length of flue through the hole.   Place it the right way up with the lower boss sitting on the paving. Then look end on comparing the flange to the paving. If it is angled it should be obvious. If not it might make installation easier with a curved roof if you get an angled one.

 

The lower boss looks as if it might be angled away from the camera but that could be camera angle, or the mould release angle on the outer sides of the boss.

 

All I was trying to do is to tell you that even though you may think you have never seen an angle roof collar in fact you may well have done because they can be difficult to identify without close inspection and a straight edge through the bosses so you can judge the flange to straight edge angle.

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It does seems slightly angled. Not that the photo shows that well.

But I don't think it's going to matter that much, as the flue has a gap of about an inch, as it's 4" and the hole in the collar is 5". 

 

The bottom photo shows the amount of gap, which is normally equalilateral but it's like it is in the photoIMG_20200711_1348583.jpg.a262dad3e193008370b0ce484eb58afd.jpg because I moved the fire out of position with the flue still In.  

I've got an idea now. I think this looks like my shopping list:

 

Does that look about right to everyone?

 

Screenshot_20200711-143004.png

Screenshot_20200711-143208.png

Screenshot_20200711-143216.png

Screenshot_20200711-105948.png

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