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36 minutes ago, WotEver said:

You set the clearances on each pair of valves when the piston on that cylinder is at top dead centre and both valves are closed. Did you do this?

Or use the rule of 9.   ie set 1 when 8 is fully open, set 2 when 7 is fully open etc. etc.

  • Greenie 1
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Either method would do on a BMC. I would probably use the rule of 9 but Wotever's method works well and involves less engine turning over. You do it thus:

 

 

Turn the engine over until both rockers on one cylinder are moving at the same time. Try to get the  angler on the rocker arms more or less the same. This sets that cylinder at top dead centre.

 

Then adjust that cylinder's piston pair so on a BMC the piston pairs are 1 &4 and 2 & 3

 

Turn again to get the next cylinder in the firing sequence rocking. The firing sequence is 1,3,4,2 for BMCs.

 

Both methods work on 4 cylinder engines although I would not be so sure about the rule of 9 on modern engines that do not have the inlet and exhaust valves positioned like BMCs

 

A universal method for an an engine with any number of cylinders is to turn the engine until one valve is fully open. Put a  mark on the front pulley. Turn the engine one complete turn so the mark is back more or less where it started. Adjust that valve. Rub mark off and turn engine over until another vale is fully down and repeat.

 

Although far from best practice for a typical boater you can normally get the engine to turn  with a spanner on the alternator pulley nut while you push the side of the drive belt that goes slack inwards with some  determination. Do it slowley and when compression stops you turning it pause and listen while the compression hisses away. You MIGHT also hear the injectors creak while doing this, its fine and to be expected.

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If you have had the head off, you have disconnected the injector pipes.

Have you bled all the air out of the pumps and pipes? On  cranking is there white smoke from the exhaust? 

A diesel engine with compression, a good battery and fuel will start. If not there is one or more missing.

TD'

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30 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

If you have had the head off, you have disconnected the injector pipes.

Have you bled all the air out of the pumps and pipes? On  cranking is there white smoke from the exhaust? 

A diesel engine with compression, a good battery and fuel will start. If not there is one or more missing.

TD'

 

Yes - and did the OP use a crowsfoot "socket" to torque the head nuts under the rocker shaft?

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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

Either method would do on a BMC. I would probably use the rule of 9 but Wotever's method works well and involves less engine turning over. You do it thus:

 

 

Turn the engine over until both rockers on one cylinder are moving at the same time. Try to get the  angler on the rocker arms more or less the same. This sets that cylinder at top dead centre.

 

Then adjust that cylinder's piston pair so on a BMC the piston pairs are 1 &4 and 2 & 3

 

Turn again to get the next cylinder in the firing sequence rocking. The firing sequence is 1,3,4,2 for BMCs.

 

Both methods work on 4 cylinder engines although I would not be so sure about the rule of 9 on modern engines that do not have the inlet and exhaust valves positioned like BMCs

 

A universal method for an an engine with any number of cylinders is to turn the engine until one valve is fully open. Put a  mark on the front pulley. Turn the engine one complete turn so the mark is back more or less where it started. Adjust that valve. Rub mark off and turn engine over until another vale is fully down and repeat.

 

Although far from best practice for a typical boater you can normally get the engine to turn  with a spanner on the alternator pulley nut while you push the side of the drive belt that goes slack inwards with some  determination. Do it slowley and when compression stops you turning it pause and listen while the compression hisses away. You MIGHT also hear the injectors creak while doing this, its fine and to be expected.

I reckon adjusting them individually, marking the pulley is the safest way for folk not used to doing it.

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17 minutes ago, bizzard said:

I reckon adjusting them individually, marking the pulley is the safest way for folk not used to doing it.

Agreed.

Possibly the only way with 5 cylinder engines. I stick a neodymium magnet on the crank pulley, saves having loads of confusing marks. Just move it round as required.

 

TD'

  • Greenie 1
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Yes I have bled the injectors and pump I have looked at all possible things think that I have a lazy starter motor it's turning over to slow   so I have ordered a new starter motor I'll let you all no when I get it thanks ever one for your help 

 

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42 minutes ago, Carl123 said:

Yes I have bled the injectors and pump I have looked at all possible things think that I have a lazy starter motor it's turning over to slow   so I have ordered a new starter motor I'll let you all no when I get it thanks ever one for your help 

 

Are you sure that your lazy starter motor is not a flat battery by turning it over so many times ?

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8 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Are you sure that your lazy starter motor is not a flat battery by turning it over so many times ?

I agree that is a very likely cause, may also be a masters witch has gone resistive for the same reason or the heavy wiring has been disturbed so it has a loose connection.

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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

I agree that is a very likely cause, may also be a masters witch has gone resistive for the same reason or the heavy wiring has been disturbed so it has a loose connection.

Yes I have the battery after on it as a booster start bilt in. I took the starter motor off and pe jumpy leads directly to the starter it not spinning very vast 

 

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10 minutes ago, Carl123 said:

I took the starter motor off and pe jumpy leads directly to the starter it not spinning very vast

But if you put the jump leads on the same battery(s) that would not tell you anything.

If you try the starter motor with jump-leads onto another (car ?) battery and it spins OK then the boat battery(s) are flat, if it still spins slowly then, yes, you may have a 'lazy starter'.

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9 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

But if you put the jump leads on the same battery(s) that would not tell you anything.

If you try the starter motor with jump-leads onto another (car ?) battery and it spins OK then the boat battery(s) are flat, if it still spins slowly then, yes, you may have a 'lazy starter'.

Yes I tryed it on my mondeo diesel battery with the car running still spun ofer slow the bendickes doesn't stay out when it spins round it just pops out for a second as you touch the live feed on the motor then it slides back to the none engage  mode 

 

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2 minutes ago, Carl123 said:

Yes I tryed it on my mondeo diesel battery with the car running still spun ofer slow the bendickes doesn't stay out when it spins round it just pops out for a second as you touch the live feed on the motor then it slides back to the none engage  mode 

 

It does sound like there may be an internal problem.

There are normally starter motor / alternator servicing people in most towns.

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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