Viking Slipstream

[Alan de Enfield]

7 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:

 

To add a bit to my previous post:

 

I have just noticed that Chertsey Meads are doing refurbished (exchange) legs for £2100 which seems fair for an already fixed one.

 

If you want expensive sterndrive bits buy Volvo Penta ... just ask @Naughty Cal as I think they have two of them!

Let me give you an example (I have twin Volvo engines and Volvo saildrives in the Cat)

 

I needed some hydraulic oil for the automatic steering system (auto-pilot), went into the local chandlery and the Volvo oil was £30 for a 1 litre bottle.

I made a note of the specification, checked on ebay and found a normal 'branded' identical specification at £12 for 5litres inclusive of next day delivery.

 

Any guesses which I went with ?

 

 

I had a single Volvo sterndrive on a Fairline - horrendously expensive for parts.

 

I've had 18 boats in the last 30 years and keep telling myself 'NO MORE VOLVO' but then the boats I want have Volvo engines  - the 1st Volvo engine one I had was big Fairline Corniche with twin Volvo 200HP straight six Turbos, I had a turbo 'blow' and the effect on the bank balance was not pretty

 

 

Edited July 4, 2020 by Alan de Enfield

[TheBiscuits]

 

When we bought the Nauticus 27 (unsurveyed, Z-Drive not working!) it was a bit of a gamble and a low offer - a few grand off because "that's what it costs to fix a sterndrive".

 

To get the Z-Drive running I needed to buy one of these: https://www.chertseymeadsmarine.co.uk/product/key-gear-lever/

 

MrsBiscuits was quite impressed.

 

The full rebuild later on cost a few hundred quid, but it all worked a lot better afterwards!

 

 

[74milesaway]

Thanks to all - you guys are great but I'm writing this in my home office (bedroom) and my beer is downstairs so I'll go off and take some time to consume the advice......

 

Cheers

 

74

[David Mack]

On 02/07/2020 at 08:57, Alan de Enfield said:

 

 

 

 

That looks like a very boxy cabin. If you use this on narrow canals with arched bridges, steering from the front so you can't see the cabin behind you I foresee problems.

[Tony Brooks]

I see you are now looking a wide beam cruisers and mention the Madeira 27, I think this used Elysian 27 aft cockpit moulds so an Elysian 27, either aft or centre cockpit will be similar hull and engine wise as will the Seamaster 27. The Elysians had/have very strong hulls with Seamaster 27s not far behind. Both were very popular in hire fleets at one time. Personally I don't like the looks of the Seamaster 30 but that is personal so ignore it. There will be more availability and choice from yards & brokers on the major rivers (the Madeira was built  at Marlow on Thames) so Thames, Trent, Severn, Nene, Ouse, and the Broads.

[Naughty Cal]

On 04/07/2020 at 20:44, TheBiscuits said:

 

To add a bit to my previous post:

 

I have just noticed that Chertsey Meads are doing refurbished (exchange) legs for £2100 which seems fair for an already fixed one.

 

If you want expensive sterndrive bits buy Volvo Penta ... just ask @Naughty Cal as I think they have two of them!

We only have the one VP drive thankfully but it is stupidly expensive to maintain. 

 

Same goes for the green lump in the engine bay!

[Movin' on]

2 hours ago, Naughty Cal said:

We only have the one VP drive thankfully but it is stupidly expensive to maintain. 

 

Same goes for the green lump in the engine bay!

I'm already finding the downside to (Volvo) sterndrives firstly the bl**dy thing won't go in a straight line - driver error I suspect?.

Secondly you have to take it out of the water even just to change the morse cable - as is happening next week.

The trouble is our chosen boat only came sail drive or sterndrive not shaft!

All a good learning curve - but we are still glad we bought her as we are enjoying our boating again...............

 

[TheBiscuits]

11 minutes ago, Halsey said:

the bl**dy thing won't go in a straight line - driver error I suspect

 

Drive it like a speedboat.  Engine revs are as important as steering wheel for manoeuvring.  If you need to make a big change in direction give it more revs while steering to force the stern round faster.

 

I also tell people that if they are doing too much steering they are doing it wrong.  Try doing only tiny corrections and do them early, before it goes offline.

 

Alternatively and easier to explain, when you have steered to go in a straight line, count to five or ten seconds before doing any more steering.  This rapidly teaches you not to overcorrect each way, and also gives the boat enough time to react to the previous change.

 

If those techniques don't work for you, get a rudder that clamps to the stern drive - that will help a lot at low revs cruising.

[Movin' on]

7 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:

If those techniques don't work for you, get a rudder that clamps to the stern drive - that will help a lot at low revs cruising.

I suspect its all about 5 tons with 150HP v 20 tons with 18hp!

Once my morse cable is chawed and the controls work smoothly and can be relied upon I suspect I will do better BUT I didn't know about bolt on rudders so that might be a good thing as there is a lot of slow speed manoeuvring in the marina to get to our berth.

Is this a normal thing to do or is it a bit like trining wheels on a bike??

Also would a bigger/smaller wheel help with or without a lorry drivers handle??

Cheers

[Naughty Cal]

9 minutes ago, Halsey said:

I suspect its all about 5 tons with 150HP v 20 tons with 18hp!

Once my morse cable is chawed and the controls work smoothly and can be relied upon I suspect I will do better BUT I didn't know about bolt on rudders so that might be a good thing as there is a lot of slow speed manoeuvring in the marina to get to our berth.

Is this a normal thing to do or is it a bit like trining wheels on a bike??

Also would a bigger/smaller wheel help with or without a lorry drivers handle??

Cheers

Try 2.5 ton with 170hp!

 

It's a bit flighty to say the least!

[TheBiscuits]

13 minutes ago, Halsey said:

I didn't know about bolt on rudders so that might be a good thing as there is a lot of slow speed manoeuvring in the marina to get to our berth.

Is this a normal thing to do or is it a bit like trining wheels on a bike??

 

If you do a lot of slow revs manoeuvring, they make it easier to steer the boat.  I see no shame in using something to make your boat handling better, so it might be worth a try.  You can always remove it if you eventually don't need it.

 

13 minutes ago, Halsey said:

Also would a bigger/smaller wheel help with or without a lorry drivers handle??

 

Probably not.  As long as you can turn the wheel lock to lock easily the wheel size is fairly irrelevant.

 

You can easily try the effects of a smaller wheel by holding the spokes not the rim.

 

 

Edited July 8, 2020 by TheBiscuits
spellink

[Murflynn]

40 minutes ago, Halsey said:

I suspect its all about 5 tons with 150HP v 20 tons with 18hp!

Once my morse cable is chawed and the controls work smoothly and can be relied upon I suspect I will do better BUT I didn't know about bolt on rudders so that might be a good thing as there is a lot of slow speed manoeuvring in the marina to get to our berth.

Is this a normal thing to do or is it a bit like trining wheels on a bike??

Also would a bigger/smaller wheel help with or without a lorry drivers handle??

Cheers

IMHO all outboards and outdrives installed in inland boats should have a good rudder attached.   It is ridiculous that a boat cannot be steered as it drifts into the bank with the gears in neutral.  With a lightweight yogurt pot I would always aim to be in neutral for the final 5 to 10 metres unless there is a crosswind.

[Alan de Enfield]

1 hour ago, Halsey said:

I'm already finding the downside to (Volvo) sterndrives firstly the bl**dy thing won't go in a straight line - driver error I suspect?.

Stern drives are not normally a 'problem', just get used to them and remember as well as turning the prop (on the leg) you are still getting prop walk which can make the situation, better or worse depending on which way you are turning.

 

I've only had one boat with a single out-drive and that wasn't a problem.

All the others have been twin-engines and you just leave the outdrive 'centred' and steer on the props. (one in forward and one in reverse and you can turn on the spot)

[Momac]

Outdrives do cost money to maintain in large part because the boat has to be lifted ashore to do the most basic service work including a leg  oil change . But once in two years seems sufficient for routine service.

I don't find the annual engine service costs particularly expensive on a DIY basis. 

 

The tendency to wander from a  straight line , especially noticeable  with a single engine  set up, is something you learn to live with - the corrections become more instinctive. Try to avoid over correction which can set up an even more exaggerated  pendulum motion. 

 

 

 

 

 

51 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 you are still getting prop walk 

Not necessarily - not with duo-props

[Alan de Enfield]

2 minutes ago, MartynG said:

Not necessarily - not with duo-props

Indeed, - but the older 280 & 290 legs are not available with duo-props.

Maybe if @Halsey tells us which leg he has we can offer more applicable advice.

[Movin' on]

3 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Indeed, - but the older 280 & 290 legs are not available with duo-props.

Maybe if @Halsey tells us which leg he has we can offer more applicable advice.

Just ordered a rudder/hydrofin kit as boat coming out next week so no time to wait and deliberate hopefully £200 well spent

This my leg - 1988 vintage - don't know what model it is 

[Alan de Enfield]

43 minutes ago, Halsey said:

This my leg - 1988 vintage - don't know what model it is 

It looks like a 280 (certainly not contra rotating props)

 

Don't know if you have one, but here is the manual.

 

http://www.marinesurveyorontario.com/volvo penta workshop manual.pdf

 

Keep an eye on the prop-anode (the circular one between the prop and the leg) they are very thin and can 'wear-out' quite quickly. They are the only thing stopping your leg disintegrating into dust.

 

Edit to add - on the underside of the anti-cavitation plate (the flat bits either side of the leg above the prop)  you should find an adjustable 'trim-tab' which can be adjusted (turned from side to side) and will help trim the out-drive so it doesn't wander about - its sort of like a mini-rudder.

 

You shouldn't need the rudder extension kit if you have a trim-tab installed. I cannot see one on your photo so maybe it has eroded away ?

 

 

 

 

Edited July 8, 2020 by Alan de Enfield

[Movin' on]

33 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

It looks like a 280 (certainly not contra rotating props)

 

Don't know if you have one, but here is the manual.

 

http://www.marinesurveyorontario.com/volvo penta workshop manual.pdf

 

Keep an eye on the prop-anode (the circular one between the prop and the leg) they are very thin and can 'wear-out' quite quickly. They are the only thing stopping your leg disintegrating into dust.

 

Edit to add - on the underside of the anti-cavitation plate (the flat bits either side of the leg above the prop)  you should find an adjustable 'trim-tab' which can be adjusted (turned from side to side) and will help trim the out-drive so it doesn't wander about - its sort of like a mini-rudder.

 

You shouldn't need the rudder extension kit if you have a trim-tab installed. I cannot see one on your photo so maybe it has eroded away ?

 

 

 

 

 

Many thanks for all that - I've looked at other pics and there is no trim tab - the anodes are relatively new - rudder kit ordered as I might as well as she is coming out and marina manoeuvring is very tight around some very posh boats.

Thanks for the manual link

J

[Alan de Enfield]

34 minutes ago, Halsey said:

Many thanks for all that - I've looked at other pics and there is no trim tab

The manual shows that there should be one (it is also an anode, and erodes away), so maybe whoever replaced the anodes forgot / didn't know about that one. Whilst you are 'out' get on put on, it helps to protect the leg.

[Naughty Cal]

On 08/07/2020 at 12:36, MartynG said:

Outdrives do cost money to maintain in large part because the boat has to be lifted ashore to do the most basic service work including a leg  oil change . But once in two years seems sufficient for routine service.

I don't find the annual engine service costs particularly expensive on a DIY basis. 

 

The tendency to wander from a  straight line , especially noticeable  with a single engine  set up, is something you learn to live with - the corrections become more instinctive. Try to avoid over correction which can set up an even more exaggerated  pendulum motion. 

 

 

 

 

 

Not necessarily - not with duo-props

You do still get prop walk with a single engined duo prop boat. 

 

Ours turns much better one way than the other but thankfully the prop walks to port which is handy as we almost always moor port side too.