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Oxygen and acetylene hire (brazing and rivets)


Jrtm

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as tital I'm trying to find somewhere that hires a full kit, most places hire just the torch kit or the do the tiny 1L bottle kits that last 5 seconds.

 

I'm after a 5-10L bottle kit any bigger and I cant fit or lift in and out the car. Tge tiny small bottles won't last long enough.

 

I can either hire local to Luton area so hemal, luton, Bedford, mk ect or Birmingham (if Birmingham i need to be able to collect and return on a Saturday with near full day hire) Need it for Saturday 18th July.

 

Luton area as long as I can hire over weekend pick up either Friday or Sat and return Sun or Monday.

 

I've had a look but as said most only hire the torches. If anyone even has one ill happily hire it from you.

I could buy one but for the job I need its not worth it otherwise I would

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If it is a small brazing job the diy shed mixed gas blowlamp cylinders will get it hot enough.  On bigger stuff- steel water pipes and flexible for exhausts I have used the carbon torch on an arc welder route.  The carbon rods may be hard to find these days.

 

For steel riveting, you should be OK with a BIG  propane blowlamp, provided you set the lamp  up right.   Feed the rivets down a bit of angle into a muffle.  Or look for a farriers portable forge.

 

N

 

 

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The small bottles very small (1L tiny) bottles won't last long enough you get around 10 mins of use, i have 2 block parts to braze, and around 8-10 rivets (engine room rivets) i need to heat up once in the holes reason being, the museum might be open it might be shut but I have to do on the boat due to others pos walking around the site the only safe way is to pop the rivet in heat up then hit it. (I cant just put a metal sheet down and do on that like I would at home or out and about as it has the potential to set the wood on fire the engine room is steel, i could put on the roof but there is still alot of wood around the spot i need to rivet has no wood near it.)

 

Hence looking for a good but portable size oxy kit

Edited by billybobbooth
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3 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

For riveting a coke brazier would do the job.

 

Not sure that would work to 'heat the hole'

 

 

11 minutes ago, billybobbooth said:

i need to heat up once in the holes reason being, the museum might be open it might be shut but I have to do on the boat due to others pos walking around the site the only safe way is to pop the rivet in heat up then hit it.

 

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You will struggle to rivet successfully by heating the rivet in the hole.  Hot rivets work because when you hit them the diameter expands to fill the hole and is stopped by the cold plate. The outside of the rivet is then chilled so 'frozen' in size. The head then forms and finally the rivet contracts lengthways  as it cools, clamping the plates together.  Heating the rivet in the hole will mean a red hot (or nearly so) plate round it, and this will just deform as the rivet is expanded.  

 

Can you not up sticks for a quieter bit of towpath then return when the riveting is done?  Depends on whether you are using an air or electric riveter and need to power that I guess.

 

N

PS. There are alternatives to BOC, but they are even more expensive.

 

 

Edited by BEngo
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Do you have access to mains electricity? If so there are such things as eddy current heaters on the market and maybe for hire that are good for very local heating. Popular in the garage trade for the likes of rusty nuts, bolts and fittings, one would quickly bring the protruding part of a rivet to red heat. Something of a compromise I admit, (see post No.6), but it might do the trick.

 

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1 hour ago, BEngo said:

You will struggle to rivet successfully by heating the rivet in the hole.  Hot rivets work because when you hit them the diameter expands to fill the hole and is stopped by the cold plate. The outside of the rivet is then chilled so 'frozen' in size. The head then forms and finally the rivet contracts lengthways  as it cools, clamping the plates together.  Heating the rivet in the hole will mean a red hot (or nearly so) plate round it, and this will just deform as the rivet is expanded.  

 

Can you not up sticks for a quieter bit of towpath then return when the riveting is done?  Depends on whether you are using an air or electric riveter and need to power that I guess.

 

N

PS. There are alternatives to BOC, but they are even more expensive.

 

 

Hi i can't get the boat out of the museum at the moment, a the museum is shut no way of lifting the bridge and b the engine is in bits due to some of the work being carried out, total top end rebuild including new liners ring and rebuilt heads.

 

I need to braze inside the block,

 

As above the rivets can wait but the block cant as I cant put engine back together without re sealing a old weld that wasn't sealing, i want it doing semi proper hence brazing rather than just some form of liquid metal or fiberglass. Its right on the corner on gearbox side,

 

Shame there is no low temp alternative ?.

 

Think I'm going to have to look a buying a kit, just be expensive at around 300+ ish for new bottles + hire + buying a regulars and torch.

 

Was just hoping not to even if I found a local or someone that would lend me one for the price of replacement gas

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2 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

I don't think anyone will hire out bottles anymore. You need a BOC account and insurance....

I dont know about insurance, and as I onyl have argosheild it might be difference, but if you want to hire can you not just setup an account and hire from BOC for for me?

 

 

Daniel

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Argosheild is normaly 5% welding gas for mig/tig welding its normally a mix of 3 gasses, if was a mig I would be fine i have a bottle still (no welder except arc but the only way to weld well would be to tig.)

 

Worst case I may have to hire a tig welder if I can find one

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34 minutes ago, jake_crew said:

Could you get yourself to Stoke Bruerne ?    The blacksmith there might be able to help.

 

Or Candlebridge Fabrications at Blisworth.

 

Otherwise, I've seen a few mobile/floating welders around the cut.

No boat is stuck at bclm. With no current access to public or staff except a few. Ive managed to get special permission to go on site for the day (first time sence march). Wanted to get at least the block done, and if got chance the rivets in the engine room while I had the opportunity at same time, rivets can wait its the block thats the important bit to get done, without this the engine can't go back together. And the block is stripped as best I can but I cant get the block part out as its very very difficult to strip it further without causing far more problems and then would have to try and lift the block out the engine room doors, my roof is a fully sealed roof as the engine was part rebuild before the engine room went back on

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not sure ive fone some ringing around, its getting people on site to do the job, as I have to work around the museum and around public areas so its the comes in under there health and safety.

 

Hence if I can get the kit its my insurance ect and i can then work around the public areas or when I know there is no public

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1 minute ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Will the block stitch?

Ah this was an idea I thought about but you cant get to the very middle to bottom from outside as the timing case is in the way, (i can't remove this thats not a easy job and I also then run the risk of knoking one of the engine block stands bolts out which is very bad like sinking bad)

 

I maybe able to do it from inside (liners are already out) but I think its right on a weak corner before the thick part of the block.

 

I cant get to boat to photo to show the point at the mo.

 

I can get to the inside but not 100% it can be done from inside.

 

Welding (mig/arc) won't work as its too old and the iron won't weld well its been tried in the past before my ownership. Hence braze is best.

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