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Jimi303

Removing injectors on a vetus

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Hi all, 

I need to remove a leaking injector from a vetus m3.10 and was hoping for some help please. The manual is woeful on injectors, and I'm a bit unsure where to disconnect the fuel line(s). I'm thinking here on the return line as it first runs off from the rail (photograph) is that right? Or is there somewhere else I should be looking? And I'm also going to have to remove the air intake silencer to get in at the rail anything to consider there? Also do I need to maybe drain the fuel out of the system first before I start undoing line fixtures, in case the fuel is pressurised? If so where / how would I do that please? Again the manual is letting me down regarding this, the fuel pump is not the same on engine as it is in the manual! Sorry for all the questions, any help (in laymen terms please) would be greatly appreciated. 

IMG_20200621_163937.jpg

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Your image shows the injector pump, not an injector so its no use.

 

The injectors have two pipes on the thinnner, possibly rubber one that's the leak off pipe plus the heavy one that runs up from the injector pump. Turn off the fuel tap in case the leak off pipe back leaks. Then simply undo the two pipe fittings of pull the rubber hose off. It would be an idea to loosen the other end of the main pipe on the injector pump so you can move the top end away from the injector rather than risk bending the pipe.

  • Greenie 1

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17 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

Your image shows the injector pump, not an injector so its no use.

 

The injectors have two pipes on the thinnner, possibly rubber one that's the leak off pipe plus the heavy one that runs up from the injector pump. Turn off the fuel tap in case the leak off pipe back leaks. Then simply undo the two pipe fittings of pull the rubber hose off. It would be an idea to loosen the other end of the main pipe on the injector pump so you can move the top end away from the injector rather than risk bending the pipe.

Pages 92 & 93 in the above manual. 

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image.png.0751ee697b189eb56d6dfb558c0697bc.png

 

Here are a two pot Vetus injectors. Undo the red nut to release the main injector pipes. You will have to remove both (remember loosen the other end) and pull them clear without bending the pipes.

 

Undo the thin hexagon nut below it on all injectors and lift the whole leak off pipe assembly off.

 

The ideally use a deep socket to unscrew the injector.

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When you come to put the pipes back don't on any account bend them. Place in position and do all the nuts up finger tight so the nipples on the pipes are allowed the centralise them selves into the fittings and only then start to do them all up evenly. If you bend the pipe or have it misaligned so you use the nut to pull it into position it is likely to start leaking eventually.

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Okay thats them out and off to the shop, thanks again everyone. Just a quick question now - I can see the ends of the glow plugs through the wells now, was thinking of testing them. Would I be okay turning them on as they are? Or is pressing the glow plug switch likely to circulate fuel etc, same way turning a key in an ignition might? Or some other reason I shouldn't do that? 

Okay thats them out and off to the shop, thanks again everyone. Just a quick question now - I can see the ends of the glow plugs through the wells now, was thinking of testing them. Would I be okay turning them on as they are? Or is pressing the glow plug switch likely to circulate fuel etc, same way turning a key in an ignition might? Or some other reason I shouldn't do that? 

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Being a Vetus with an electric fuel pump it will circulate fuel but no fuel should come out of the injector pipes. You will only have in the heat psition for a few seconds so go ahead.

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Ok so the shop cant carry out the repairs as can't source new retaining nuts. I can get them direct from manufacturers and can source new nozzles easy enough, so I'm thinking of doing the repairs myself. My concern is are the other parts that make up the injector likely to be worn / wear out soon? If so I might be better forking out for full assemblies maybe? Plus I'm not very experienced so is this a job I should even be thinking of taking on do you think? Thanks in advance, jim

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58 minutes ago, Jimi303 said:

Ok so the shop cant carry out the repairs as can't source new retaining nuts. I can get them direct from manufacturers and can source new nozzles easy enough, so I'm thinking of doing the repairs myself. My concern is are the other parts that make up the injector likely to be worn / wear out soon? If so I might be better forking out for full assemblies maybe? Plus I'm not very experienced so is this a job I should even be thinking of taking on do you think? Thanks in advance, jim

Hold hard there. There is nothing difficult about stripping and rebuilding an injector, especially if you have new nozzles but the more problematic parts comes with setting them up an for that you will need an injector pop tester and a selections of shims to adjust each injector. Plus knowing how to assess the spray pattern, set the opening pressure and doing the dribble and back leakage test although with new nozzles the last two should hopefully not be needed.

 

 

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Thank you Tony, I'd suspected as much, and have heard a bit about spray patterns etc. If I can get a professional to do the work I then I will, otherwise Im leaning towards getting the full assemblies to be safe

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1 hour ago, Jimi303 said:

Thank you Tony, I'd suspected as much, and have heard a bit about spray patterns etc. If I can get a professional to do the work I then I will, otherwise Im leaning towards getting the full assemblies to be safe

I am really surprised you can't find a diesel shop to do the job, especially if you supply them the parts. I also don't recognise the term "retaining nuts" as applied to that injector. The injectors just screw into the cylinder head as is modern practice, no nuts involved.

 

I suspect many proper boatyards and garages with some "old boys" working there have pop testers to set the injectors up, not so sure abotu the shims but I bet Ford ones will do the job.

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Yes I was a bit surprised too, its a well known shop with a good reputation. But yes I'm going to try to source parts and find somewhere else. 

Yes I checked the manual and it refers to it as retaining nut - looks like a threaded end cap into which the nozzle would sit

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14 minutes ago, Jimi303 said:

Yes I was a bit surprised too, its a well known shop with a good reputation. But yes I'm going to try to source parts and find somewhere else. 

Yes I checked the manual and it refers to it as retaining nut - looks like a threaded end cap into which the nozzle would sit

That makes sense but I have yet to see any that are so badly damaged in service that a quick rub up on a wire wheel would not sort them.

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Ok I've finally got the injectors nearly ready but I need to source new copper washers to seal them, I've found a copper Sump washer the correct measures will that be ok? Just wondering if the deeper engine position or higher heat of the Sump will mean the washers are treated differently somehow? Really hoping to get this done today! 

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Have you still got the old ones?   Clean them up, heat red hot (gas ring will do). Cool quick or slow.  You have just annealed them.

Refit.

N

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2 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Never throw anything away until the job is finished, working, and tested.

And then only throw away the leftover bits

  • Haha 1

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Looks like someone might have had trouble there before, is that a Wade gas fitting? might have a bit of swarf in the injector or something, could be time to look for a replacement injector (maybe secondhand from breakers) just to see if that sorts the problem or throws up some more clues.

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